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Slideglide???


PistolPete

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I'm thinking about buying this to use with my stainless steel modified Dan Wesson 1911. Who is using it and how is it working for you? I know that with time the friction on a stainless steel gun will wear away at the rails eventually causing some damage to the firearm. I was thinking of using this and just wanted to see how it is working for people who are currently using it.'

Thanks,

Pete

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With the exception of the fire control parts of my SV 1911, it all see's a healthy dollup of Slide Glide (#3). I can't imagine using anything else. Although, I did take it off when I set my gun up for Minor PF loads (~120) and a 9lb recoil spring. But, I will get some SlideGlide Lite and try it, since its made for lightly sprung Open blasters. It is really, really good stuff. You will not regret it.

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Big Dave,

When I first got the Slideglide I only used it on the, well… slide and I used FP-10 on everything else. Since the warm weather has FINALLY come I now use it on EVERYTHING in the gun, try it, it works great!

L2S,

Talk to me about “Trigger Slick”. :huh:

Ed

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PistolPete,

And when you apply the Slide-Glide, be SURE to coat the MAINSPRING with it. It is a little bit of a chore to remove the mainspring housing, the pin, and the cap to get to the spring, but believe me........... IT IS WELL WORTH THE FEW MINUTES AND LITTLE BIT OF EFFORT. It is like an instant trigger job, and you don't touch the trigger group......... just Slide-Glide the MAINSPRING.............. Even if you didn't use the Slide-Glide on ANYTHING else, it is worth the price of the container of it just for how it makes the trigger/hammer cocking feel.................. smooth as a maiden's .....................

(YOU fill in the blank ;) )

By the way.............. does anyone here know WHERE to get that Slide-Glide stuff???????????? :P:P:P

Jeffro

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Is slide glide yet another of the white lithium greases, with or without "additive X"?

I've been using TW25B grease for a few years and love it. It's good for any temperature, too!

I never thought to grease the mainspring . . . but it does make sense! I may have to try it! Thanks!

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And when you apply the Slide-Glide, be SURE to coat the MAINSPRING with it. It is a little bit of a chore to remove the mainspring housing, the pin, and the cap to get to the spring, but believe me........... IT IS WELL WORTH THE FEW MINUTES AND LITTLE BIT OF EFFORT. It is like an instant trigger job, and you don't touch the trigger group......... just Slide-Glide the MAINSPRING..............

I've been meaning to ask the Enosverse group mind about that. Thanks for reminding me. This idea has come up before, and I've never been able to understand how that makes sense. How could SGing the mainspring affect trigger pulls? Make the gun cycle more smoothly because there's less effort required to recock the hammer, okay, that I could see. But the mainspring has absolutely nothing to do with the hammer/sear engagement or trigger pulls. Right?

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..........But the mainspring has absolutely nothing to do with the hammer/sear engagement or trigger pulls. Right?

Duane,

You are absolutely correct. It has nothing to do with the hammer/sear engagement, however, when the trigger is pulled, it releases the energy in the mainspring.......... converting potential energy to kinetic energy instantaneously (or in a small enough timeframe to appear instantaneous if we are being really technical). At that time, the mainspring pushes the mainspring cap against the strut to drive the hammer forward. If this spring and cup have a layer of lubricant between them and the interior wall of the mainspring housing, it makes the going smoother, therefore decreasing locktime, and making the hammer fall faster and smoother. As you noted, it likewise makes the slide retraction feel much smoother, because when the slide is retracted (or cocked, if you will) then usually it is cocking the hammer also. Eliminating a substantial portion of the friction between the mainspring/cap assembly and the interior wall of the mainspring housing means lower coefficient of friction, and SMOOTHER cycling of the slide........... all making for a smoother cycle (IN MY HUMBLE OPINION). I would also venture an opinion that one could get superior "striking or ignition energy" from a mainspring with a lighter weight if it has superior lubrication, as less of the stored energy is being used to fight friction, therefore more energy left to strike the primer. A lighter mainspring DOES enhance the trigger pull. A lighter mainspring delivering the same "net energy" to the firing pin accomplishes the same level of reliability of a heavier mainspring that is loosing "striking energy" to friction "in it's travel in the cavity of the mainspring housing. Leave the same weight mainspring in the firearm AND add superior lubrication and you have a much faster moving hammer when the trigger is pulled......... usually more accuracy when hammer falls faster...... always neat!!

Sorry 'bout the length of this post.............. Just trying to get the theory across........... :rolleyes:

Best,

Jeffro (Jeff)

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After reading this I did slap some SG on the mainspring of my SIG 225. Perception being reality, it did seem smoother. Maybe I was looking for it, maybe I was "feeling" something that was always there, but it did seem smoother and lighter....

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Just want to clarify my statements in the above post. I am NOT a gunsmith, nor am I an expert (unfortunately not even very smart!). Those are ONLY my opinions, and quite humble opinions at that. Yes, I have owned and fired and "tinkered" with 1911s for almost 40 years, and truly am enamoured with (or is obsessed a better term?) the pieces; but don't let the years fool you............. I still know very little!! :blink:

PLEASE do NOT take any of my "technical comments" as coming from anyone who really knows anything significant. Just exchanging ideas here. I do not want anyone to get the idea that any of my posts are coming from anyone who is truly knowledgeable :P

Have a great holiday weekend, and PLEASE STAY SAFE.

Jeffro (Jeff)

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SG is Super Duper messy until you get the hang of putting it on your gun, but I just put it on every metal to metal contact point on my .45 including barrell and lugs, guide-rod, slide rails. I use a syringe with 50/50 slide glide and break free which I squirt on the sear, it seems to smooth the trigger pull a little. If you want to compare SG to what you currently use, you will notice a huge reduction in friction. My .45 coated with SG feels like the rails are running on glass. It's nice stuff and worth the price. ;) I'm really weary of gimicks, but this stuff is for real.

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I ordered the # 2 Slideglide and can't wait to give it a try. Hopefully it will be at least half as good as people here say. I even picked up a book on the 1911 pistol and they recommended this stuff in that book.

Pete

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  • 7 months later...

I have used SlideGlide for over 6 months and really like it BUT how do you keep it from making such a mess in the chamber/breech area?

Does that really hurt anything?

It apparently squeezes over the hood from the upper lugs and from underneath the ramp.

I've tried racking then wiping with a patch and my little finger over and over but it takes 20-30 minutes to get it all, and after actual firing more seems to get in.

Any suggestions?

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Larry,

I had that problem too, cured it by not using as much, just a thin coating on the parts that rub togather. SG # 3 for me. Unless it's cold, then # 1 .

Just .02 from the peanut gallery...

Travis F.

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It's funny to see this topic recirculating again. I started this topic last May when I first jointed this forum. I will say that since then I've purchased many guns including my new SV Limited gun and will say that I use Slideglide on EVERY single gun. This stuff rules. After cleaning the guns I put some one the rails and you can just feel how smooth the slide cycles every time you rack the slide.

Awesome stuff!!!

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Hey Guys,

I don't post much, I just do a lot of reading of other post to try to learn from this great knowledge base here. Maybe I can get a little advice here if you don't mind.

I still have a couple of bottles of oil to use up, but i've been considering trying slideglide and i'm not sure which weight to get :unsure: .... here is a little info that may help in your suggestions...

Weather conditions:

I shoot in the south.....

In the winter (current conditions) the temp is anywhere from around 50 to 70 degrees. very seldom is it any colder that 45-50.

In the spring,summer and fall, temps range from around 70 to the upper 90's and near 100 with high humidity in the heat of the summer.

Gun info:

I have a couple of Limited guns that I shoot. I would say that the slide has some slack in it. Maybe on a scale of 1-5, 1 being sloppy loose and 5 being tight, I would rate the fit about a 3 on one and 4 on the other. Although I've seen new guns with a tight fit, I'm not sure that I've really seen any sloppy loose fits.

All advice is greatly appreciated... :)

Sorry, one last thought. I've been reading that some of you are using SG on the mainspring with good results. Has anyone tried using it on the firing pin and spring to achieve some of the same results and the mainspring or do you think it may hinder the firing pin by creating a suction type seal that firing pin would have to overcome?

Thanks,

Tyro

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tyro,

I'd probably use #1 in your guns. I use the Lite in my Open STI and it's great stuff. Better yet buy Brians 2 Jar 'Value Pack" and get #1 & Lite then you could try some custom mixing (I'm a dyed in the wool tinkerer)!

Ray C.

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