Extreme Engineering trigger kits

[el pres]

Trigger kits such as the extreme, are they really drop in or do they

need some fitting to feel right.

Edited January 25, 2008 by DIRTY CHAMBER

[G-ManBart]

Trigger kits such as the extream, are they really drop in or do they

need some fitting to feel right.

I put one of the Extreme Engineering kits in my Edge and it required no fitting. It took a little adjusting on the sear spring to get the feel right and the weight where I wanted it, but that was it. If the pin holes in your frame are in the correct place (and straight) you shouldn't have any problems at all....pretty easy to get 2.5lbs (dead reliable) with these parts if the engagement between hammer hooks and sear nose works out properly.

[Coolduckboy]

so worth the money?

[Service Desk]

so worth the money?

They seem to be a good thing....I have found that some minor fitting of the thumb safety is necessary occasionally.

The EGW kit is a good one - but the back angle on the sear needed to be cut on the last one I did.

Edited January 25, 2008 by Service Desk

[boz1911]

Drop in? probably. Some fitting required? Also probably. Great kits for the money!

[HSMITH]

EE kits are very much worth the money. Don't count on it dropping it, it might and it might not. As Bart said, if the pin holes are right on it will be great, if they aren't you will need help. Odds of the holes being right on with an STI or an SV are pretty good, odds with a lot of the others are a bit lower.....

[Alan Meek]

Only kits I will use, Have dropped right in all of my Caspian frames with no fitting reguired.

Alan

[el pres]

Thanks, its an STI but what if the pins holes are off? How would you tell, what needs to be

done at that point?

[G-ManBart]

Thanks, its an STI but what if the pins holes are off? How would you tell, what needs to be

done at that point?

Short version is that you put it together, put marker (something like blue or red) on the sear nose and then dry fire it a bit. Then take it apart to see how much contact you have between the two. You'll be able to see if it's even contact or not (like one side not touching). HSmith can give more detail, but that's the short, short version. I think mine had like 85% contact with just a little on the outside edges not making contact and the gun has been perfect at a little over 2lbs (didn't try to go lighter). If the two don't engage properly then you need to get a smith to file/cut them to make proper contact.

[yoshidaex]

Thanks, its an STI but what if the pins holes are off? How would you tell, what needs to be

done at that point?

drop it off at a gunsmith and let him worry about it

but in all honesty, it depends on how far your pins are off. if the holes are too close together, shortening of the parts is necessary. if the holes are farther apart than normal, a gunsmith has parts stashed away just for this issue.

[HSMITH]

Bart and Hiro pretty well covered it except for pin holes that aren't parallel to each other. The fix is to stone the sear nose at an angle to the pin hole so that it mates perfectly with the hammer when installed in the gun while maintaining the angles needed for them to interface correctly. A job best left to a GOOD trigger man.....

[bountyhunter]

Trigger kits such as the extream, are they really drop in or do they

need some fitting to feel right.

If the pin holes in your frame are in the correct place (and straight) you shouldn't have any problems at all....

That's the big "if"...

[Kingman]

Great parts for the money. Try it and if it does not go in the way you want. Before you do any filing make the call.

[Joe4d]

doing a decent trigger job isnt hard with the right tools. I imagine a master may be able to freehand it but a good sear and hammer stoning jig and a few other special tools do wonders. The problem is how many trigger jobs are you gonna do ? on every few years or one every few months ? If its a one time or one time a tune up like every years or two it realy isnt worth buying the special tools and and dealing with the learning curve. as well as the extra hammer and sears you will need. (you will screw a few up) Drop in parts are more like the Arizona Cardinals than the Cowboys. See you dont expect a hole lot from the Cardinals. When the win or your drop in parts fit you are really happy. But if it doesnt work out you werent expecting much so your not too disapointed. If you treat your parts like the Cowboys and expect them to win you end up throwing your hat in the woodline and swearing off ever watching the stupid game again.

[Coolduckboy]

I love the anology. What could you do with the Stock part to get the trigger to 2#?

[Seth]

Are there brands of frames that are typically better machined and more consistent than others? STI seems to be a winner, what about Springfield, Kimber, Para and others? Any notoriously BAD? Or predictably good?

s.

Edited January 26, 2008 by Sethmark

[Kingman]

You can do it with stock parts, but you better have a clue of what you are doing. It means getting everything smooth, and matching.

[Coolduckboy]

Damn, well I never know what i am doing so i might not wanna venture into that.

[Joe4d]

It really depends on the stock parts. For instance stock Browning Hipower and alot of 1911 GI hammer and sears are surface hardened. You do much stoning you end up with soft metal on your sear and or hammer, Which can let you know its soft by switching to rock and roll (full auto) on ya. If I was paying for a trigger job the cost of a good hammer and sear arnt that significant. I would probably keep STI, but probably not Kimber, Springfield or Para.

On the frame I dont think it is so much one is bad or not they are all made different so may be at opposite ends of the tolerances. A 2.5# trigger isnt a great mystery. It just takes some hand machining aptitude, some special tools, and ability to read and understand a shop manual. But with companies like Dawson willing to throw it in along with some other tune up items for $150 probably better off just paying for a trigger job if you only want one. As you would have more than that invested in tooling.

[BSeevers]

Drop in parts are my favorite.

You usually end up "dropping in" on you gunsmith to have them fit correctly.

[bigsaxdog]

i've been working on this issue for a while......got a powers custom jig, some stones, etc., and it continues to be somewhat of a mystery. the mystery is how anybody can market something like a "drop-in" trigger job!!!! it's all in the squareness of the hammer-sear fitting/engagement, and that ain't an easy thing to achieve. short course is that the sqare ness of the holes in the frame, and their actual placement are what control the whole process. from now on, i'm gonna do the kuhnhausen thing and measure them all in relation to the slide stop hole, and if it ain't right, it goes back to factory!!

Edited January 27, 2008 by bigsaxdog

[Kingman]

You have to take into account some of the run out tolerances as well.

[HSMITH]

You'll keep one in 5 guns you buy, if that.......

[00bullitt]

It seems that Extreme drop ins always tend to set the sear at more than positive engagement to account for out of spec holes. You'll usually get a close drop in trigger as advertised but never perfect. Sometimes you can feel the bit of creep.There is actually a big difference in feel from close drop in to perfect. Most of the time hole spacing is not as big of an issue as holes not being parallel. Thats where the fun starts. I buy the drop in kits and always work the sear depending on the hole locations of the particular gun. I bought the Yavapai magnifier jig and used it until I realized their pin locations were bad off. Now I have a jig I made that uses the magnifier tube from the Yavapai jig to verify engagement when pin holes are known to be parallel.

I think the Extreme and Cylinder and Slide kits are the cats ass for quality and hardness. The Warp Speed II hammer is also the shizzle if you have not seen it yet. The only other part that is harder than Extreme is the EGW sear. I use the EGW sear anytime I do a trigger job utilizing a factory hammer and do not buy the Extreme kit.

[el pres]

Ok so if you do file the sear (any sear) do you then break the hardness anf need

to reheat?