stopsign94 Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) I just placed an order from Brownell's for their Teflon/Moly gun finish in Matte Black to do my CCF glock frame. Has anyone used this stuff before? I watched all the Brownell's videos(which were actually pretty informative) and am pretty confident in doing this myself, but has anyone here tried it? Any tips or reviews on how long it lasted are much appreciated. I also bought the TCE degreaser that they recommend. Thanks guys Edited September 26, 2007 by stopsign94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 I have, It really doesnt hold up that well, not sure how it will work on polymer, or is that the new metal glock frame ? The regular Baking laquer is better,, but the two part Duracoat airbrushed is by far the best home finish I have used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 If you prep and degrease the frame correctly, its not bad stuff. It will wear off eventually, all like bake on finishes, with time and use. Especially in Kydex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stopsign94 Posted September 26, 2007 Author Share Posted September 26, 2007 Well the way I see it is worst case scenerio I have to strip it off and try something else, I want to eventually get the Ion-Bond done, but trying to wait until the winter. Now they advise having the gun media blasted with 120 grit Aluminum Oxide. I don't have any of the equipment to do this nor the space to put it. Does anyone have an estimate for what this should cost to have done somewhere and also an alternate to the Aluminum Oxide? I think I remember seeing that glass beads would be ok also. Thanks in advance for the great advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Spend the 15 bucks on the Duracoat, you allready have degreeser or you can use no residue brake cleaner. you can prep it with some sandpaper doesnt take much, go to a hobby shop and buy the small model car air brush that has a 4 oz glass jar and a hose that attaches to an aerosol can, and a set of measuring spoons at the grocery store,,, Trust me Dura coat is way better than Brownell's shake and bake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Is the Dura Coat a chemical hardening product or do you have to bake it to cure it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 As they all say it wears eventually. My slide is worn where my thumb drags on it from time to time. Sharp edges are bare. etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stopsign94 Posted September 27, 2007 Author Share Posted September 27, 2007 well I guess I was a little off on the fact that I thought the bake on finishes generally wore better than the duracoat. When I get it media blasted, are there areas I should tape off like the framerails? I've never blasted anything before and have no idea the finish it leaves behind/metal it removes. Any advice for first time metal-finishing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Dura doesnt require baking, but it does take a couple weeks to fully cure. I would tape off rails before blasting, couldnt hurt, with the dura though I wouldnt bother unless it was pretty ruff. or I could get it done free, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 From what I've heard, the teflon finish tends to flake off. Here's my HK P7M8 that I refinished the slide with Brownell's Bake-on Lacquer. Only did the slide since the smith I had refinish it had a hard time reblueing the slide. It's mostly holster wear, but it isn't any worse than the blueing on the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resjudicata Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I can't help on the Brownell's stuff specifically. I have used Norell's Moly Coat on three guns. My Springer Operator I shoot in L10, my Springer Mil Spec I shoot in SS and now my STI Edge I shoot in Limited. It holds up well for me. On sharp edges that are in tight spots in a holster I have wear. No flaking or f*ed up spots. It is actually very good stuff in my opinion. What I do for steps in doing a spray and bake finish: Clean very, very, very thoroughly with brake cleaner. Dry very, very, very well. Pre-heat to 150 degrees. This also makes the spray dry quickly when spraying and keeps it from running. Bake for full time recommended in instructions. Spray with CLP or other popular spray gun oil as soon as you take parts out of the oven. Keep some extra spray around for touching up. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stopsign94 Posted September 27, 2007 Author Share Posted September 27, 2007 Allrighty then, so I guess the general feeling is that the bake on stuff isn't that durable. I'll give it a shot and see what happens, and I'll post picks in then next couple of days and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for all the advice, I'm definitely going to drench it in the TCE cleaner, bake it to preheat, then spray probably 3-4 very light coats using a hairdryer to dry in between, then bake for the 30 mins at 300 as Brownell's recommends. Wish me luck!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 (edited) double post. Edited September 27, 2007 by mike cyrwus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Allrighty then, so I guess the general feeling is that the bake on stuff isn't that durable. I'll give it a shot and see what happens, and I'll post picks in then next couple of days and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for all the advice, I'm definitely going to drench it in the TCE cleaner, bake it to preheat, then spray probably 3-4 very light coats using a hairdryer to dry in between, then bake for the 30 mins at 300 as Brownell's recommends. Wish me luck!!! Sounds like you want gunkote; Its available from Brownells in a spray can and its way better than the moly teflon stuff. Duracoat is best used if you bake it also, it just doesnt HAVE to be baked. Duracoat and Gunkote are a tie, in my book, with the edge going to duracoat for the wider color selection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonGlocker Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I've also had good success with Gunkote. Just make sure you spray very light coats. If not, the matte finish will turn out satin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 yes, but that satin will last a heck of a lot longer than the matte. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonGlocker Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 yes, but that satin will last a heck of a lot longer than the matte. I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpeltier Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I have used it several times and it is ok stuff. I have also used Duracoat on many projects and find it to be the most durable of any spray on finish. It is a two part, mix and spray product. Surface prep with any finish is the most important thing. My recomendation is when you feel it is clean enough, get a new rag and clean it all again. And try not to handle cleaned parts with your bare hands. I use a spray bottle from home depot called a preval sprayer that comes with a glass mixing bottle and a pressurized screw on sprayer. Works great for 5 bucks and you throw it away when you are done. Attached is a picture of my 1911 that is Duracoat magpull dark earth with black controls, sorry for the purplish tint to the photo. it looks a lot better in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockster35 Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 This is a Preval Sprayer in case anyone was wondering. I know I was! What are your thoughts on using it on the firearm, did the finish come out smooth? Would you use it again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stopsign94 Posted September 27, 2007 Author Share Posted September 27, 2007 Well my TCE and Teflon/Moly finish will be here tomorrow so I'm going to try and find someone local with a blast cabinet. I'll post some pictures of the finished frame this weekend and let you guys know how everything went. Thanks for all of the advice, if it doesn't hold up too well I'll go the Duracoat route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpeltier Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 The preval sprayer allows you to get great results. The finish is as good as many factory finishes. I have a Para-coat p-16 and used to have a Kimber CDP with their finish and my 1911's finish is smoother and has proven more durable than either of the others. I highly recomend both the preval unit and Duracoat. Spray something for practice to develop a feel for it though before you attempt a big project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireant Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Can someone post a link on where to find the right dura coat so I can see the color choices? I have a Glock slide that needs some work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Can someone post a link on where to find the right dura coat so I can see the color choices? I have a Glock slide that needs some work. google "lauer weaponry"; its on their website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireant Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Thanks for the site. Man, I see an urban camo M&P in my future now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stopsign94 Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 Well I'm almost done with the finishing. I had it glass blasted after work today, found a great little machine shop in the process. Only ran into one snag..... I just took it out of the oven, looks perfect, except for the fact that the permanently bonded locking lug in my CCF is no longer bonded. Anyone else have that happen to a Stainless frame yet? I'm wondering if I should JB Weld it back like it was or leave it? Or contact CCF and ask? thoughts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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