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Glock Strikers


Shootingirons45

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I believe that Flex wore out a striker once...just from constant use and abuse. If I recall correctly, the tip of the striker chipped off. Just buy an extra of every part (not that expensive) so you are prepared for anything.

Above all else, I would STRONGLY recommend keeping your striker stock.

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Has anybody here had any issues with a Glock G17/34 Striker going bad? If so, what seemed to be the issue?

I chipped a striker on a G35,

not sure what caused it. I had about four thousand rounds on it.

I gave it to a Glock armorer and he replaced it for free, now I have twice that many round on the new one with no issues.

I think it just happens.

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The reason I asked for input was that I experienced about 8 misfires (light strikes) in a match 2 weeks ago. It may sound as being too methodical but I went thru the striker spring, the cups, the sleeve, different primers, etc. I finally came to the conclusion thru experimenting that it was in fact the striker. I examined a brand new one and the old one under a strong magnifying glass and to be candid, I couldn't tell you the difference. I replaced the old one and the issues gone.

Today, I saw another shooter have the exact, same type of malfunction as I had. I exchanged his striker with another and the problem was solved. It just seems very odd to me that this happened to two different folks within 2 weeks of each other. Thanks for the input.

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Did the firing pin have a bunch of carbon/gunk build up stoping its travel giving you light strikes? I occasionally remove my firing pin and remove the carbon build up on the firing pin itself and change firing pin spring every 5K rounds.

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For light strikes in 9mm, the most common reason I have found is dirt/carbon in the channel slowing down the striker. I clean that area with spray brake cleaner (or equal) typically once every 3-4 months or about 3000-4000 rounds. I also do this two weeks prior to any major match.

In Glock 21, there was a problem with striker and WWB. This problem was finally addressed when police started to remove the weapon from officers. Seems that the saftey was not correct and caused friction that "slowed" down the striker. Glock has replaced mine for no charge. Some also have gone to heaver striker spring in G-21 to solve problem. I did, then went back to stock without any problem. I clean the channel the same as with my 9mm glocks.

I also change ALL springs once a year

Garry N

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Yes, I reload my ammo and even though I'm a very experienced reloader I looked into that possibility and eliminated that also. I did clean out the channel pretty well, changed out the striker spring, etc. I still got the same issue. I finally changed the striker and that resolved the problem. I was just wondering if others had the issue as well.

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I've been running the same striker for 6 years in my 34, and consistently change the springs once a season.

Only this season, when I had to switch to Winchester primers (due to the unavailability of Federal primers) have I ever encountered a light primer strike when shooting any of my Glocks. Maybe a half dozen over the last two months. Just had the last one yesterday, and ironically, it was the next to the last shot fired on the last stage after having gone through 220+ rounds.

I pulled strikers from my 17, 19 and 22 and checked all of them under a magnifier. I could tell no differences in anything.

I attribute it to the primer. While they claim the win is as soft as federal, maybe I just encounter a hard spot. 6 out of 400 or so is not too bad, but pales in comparison to my zero failures with Federal.

I miss my Federals.

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I had a chipped striker on my g34. I notices the primers on fired cases had a smear. I think it happen when I shot a match with some overpressure loads. I developed some 231 loads in the winter that were fine, but in the heat of summer, the primers were piercing. Anyways I replaced the striker, crossed that load off in my load book and everything has been fine since.

ps the original striker had 3-5k rounds on it

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I'll add to this story of my used and abused model 34. I have shoot 90% NATO 9mm thru it and let me tell you Glock has had a hard time staying in working orders. Understand I really like the gun. But it has left me at the side of the road a few times.

I broke a striker tip during a major out of state IDPA match.

My upper cracked, sending rounds far to the left :surprise:

And last, but the best. One of the four rails on the lower broke off and was never to be seen again.

To Glock's credit all but the firing pin (replaced myself) was replace with out a problem.

But I have been considering a S&W M&P the past few weeks.

Will the Glock Gods forgive me?

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I should have added, that as we all know if you use any tool enough at some point some thing will go wrong.

The striker could be due to over use or a dirt build up. The striker failed during a match in Arizona. So environment and metal fatigue and heavy use could have contributed.

As for the rail missing, Glock did in the past have a batch with weak rear rails. Mine did not fall into the exact serial number batch. But Glock replaced the lower with little to no hassle.

But the cracked upper is one that is open to discussion. Over a few beers and a cigar. The team has shoot many Glocks over the past 5+ years. I have seen two other (34 and 17) go down due to a cracked upper.

When people ask be about the trouble I have had with Glocks and why do I still shoot one? I reply that if you us anything enough it can and will brake sometime. That is why we clean, inspect, and change some parts when they get tired.

Ok so now I will have to save up to buy a Sig :rolleyes:

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If your gun is stock then high or bad primers are the usual cause of failure. Also if you have a bur/nick on your striker or very dirty striker channel these could also cause a problemmo. As far as chipped strikers go-you should be able to see a bad one with the naked eye. Never saw one go bad in all my years shooting Glocks.

If you shoot a RP striker spring-you must use Federal primers or you will get "light" hits every hundred rounds or so.

I have shot Glocks (on and off) for about 9 years in USPSA and one G35 for about 4 years straight. I did change from a stock striker to a Ti one about 3 years ago - wanted the faster lock up time that I can't tell the difference with anyways. You know those IPSC guys-always trying to game it!

Just beware-Ti is soft - watch for burs!

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I believe that Flex wore out a striker once...just from constant use and abuse. If I recall correctly, the tip of the striker chipped off.

The first time I looked at the design of my G35 striker, my mechanical engineering degree screamed:

"WRONG!"

The way that thin edge hangs out there on the tip is a real design flaw. They could do much better.

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I've replace a number of them on my G20, and G17, G34 that were

chipped on the left side of the tip. The chip keep growing until there is only

a half a tip left. Recently have been sanding them down so the surface is even again.

I've wondered why this has occurred, and the only answer is gas erosion from

pierced primers.

Upon comparing the strikes from a 2011 with the Glock, the Glock is much deeper

with flow into the firing pin hole and cratering. Could be a design flaw when shooting

faster burning powders with pressure spikes. Glock striker is too heavy and doesn't

give like the 2011. Firing pin hole is also bigger.

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Has anybody here had any issues with a Glock G17/34 Striker going bad? If so, what seemed to be the issue?

I've heard of people running .40 cal strikers in their 9 mm guns, as the tip of the striker is supposed to be a little bit longer than the 9. Personally, I haven't tried this, since I've never had a problem with my 9 mm strikers. I think Taran Butler runs a 40 in his 9mm guns. I'll have to ask him next time I run into him.

Good luck,

Itchy

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I've replaced strikers in a G17 and a G34.

In the 17, after nearly 80,000 rounds, I started getting light hits occasionally. The tip of the striker was just worn "dull" so it wasn't hitting the primers deep enough.

In the 34, the bottom of the lug that contacts the trigger bar got rounded off and would double sometimes. Replacement of the striker and trigger bar solved the problem.

Another possibility when having light hits is an accumulation of debris on the back side of the breech face inside the striker channel. Sometimes crap will also build up near the tip of the striker where the body of the striker contacts the rear side of the breech face. This will prevent the striker from fully protruding through the breech face. I've cleaned carbon and brass shavings from all of my Glocks in these areas.

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Yes, I reload my ammo and even though I'm a very experienced reloader I looked into that possibility and eliminated that also. I did clean out the channel pretty well, changed out the striker spring, etc. I still got the same issue. I finally changed the striker and that resolved the problem. I was just wondering if others had the issue as well.

Just a thought, When detail cleaning your glock,do you use a long q-tip up inside the striker channel?.

, I mean get up in their and clean out any carbon that might be on the back side of the breech face .and the striker tip hole in the breech face.

Carbon, can build up in there and retard forward travel of the striker.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Jeff

Edited by ghost21
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