dagz Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Hey Joe, Why are the lightened steel strikers preferred over the titanium ones? Is Lightning Strike the only brand available? Thank you for the valuable Glock info you share. Warm regards, Dagz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmedley Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Hey Joe,Why are the lightened steel strikers preferred over the titanium ones? Is Lightning Strike the only brand available? Thank you for the valuable Glock info you share. Warm regards, Dagz The lightened steel are preferred because they are more durable than the titanium. I have not experienced it , but have heard that titanium are prone to breaking tips off. As far as I know lightening strike is the only company making them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 The steel is more durable. I did break the tip off of a steel one several years ago at about 30,000 rounds. LS replaced it free. I have not had any problems with the new gold colored ones. The one that broke was the old black style. LS is the only one making a lwt striker that I know of. You can lighten the stock one, but it is, IMO, not worth the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagz Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 The steel is more durable. I did break the tip off of a steel one several years ago at about 30,000 rounds. LS replaced it free. I have not had any problems with the new gold colored ones. The one that broke was the old black style. LS is the only one making a lwt striker that I know of. You can lighten the stock one, but it is, IMO, not worth the effort. Thank you very much Joe! I just need to hear that from you before I order one. By the way, is the titanium striker safety plunger worth getting? I read somewhere the Vanek tigger kit has an "enhanced/modified" firing pin safety plunger. What's your take on this? Again, Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTew Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 (edited) I have not tried this one yet, but the company Glock Worx has a new lightened stainless steel striker coming out soon. Just another choice. http://www.glockworx.com/index.php?page=sh...t&Itemid=58 Edited September 5, 2007 by JTew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 Seems a little pricey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jailer252 Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Joe, spent 3 hours on the mod but the trigger will not reset forward most of the time. I have to manually pull it out. I copied your pictues to the letter. Where should I start trying to diagnose this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted September 10, 2007 Author Share Posted September 10, 2007 Sounds like the finger safety may be dragging on the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jailer252 Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Sounds like the finger safety may be dragging on the frame. Did I not trim it back enough?? Could you post a pic of how it looks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbullgpd Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 Joe I would first like to say thanks for sharing all your trigger knowledge with us. I am not quite ready, mostly due to lack of time and tools, to attempt this one but it is peaking my interest. That being said I have done the .25 job and a LWD 3.5 connector. I keep reading about changing out strikers, striker springs, and trigger springs. What does each of these do to the trigger pull/action. My guess would be lighter striker spring would lighten the trigger but I believe from what I have read to also get a heavier trigger spring, the 6lb wolf I believe (helps the reset?). Just confirming and asking to see what this changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 I don't use the heavy trigger return spring. Never found a need to. The lwt striker spring will take weight out of the pull. You will get an occasional light strike if you use the stock striker. I use the Lightning Strike steel striker. I have never had a light strike with it. I use WSP, CCI and Federal primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suburban Commando Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 (edited) By the way, is the titanium striker safety plunger worth getting? I read somewhere the Vanek tigger kit has an "enhanced/modified" firing pin safety plunger. What's your take on this?Again, Thanks! The Vanek safety plunger is a Glock OEM button that he "melted." He takes the angles off the end that sticks out of the slide, and makes it round. I've tried to replicate the job by holding a stone to the plunger chucked into a drill, but I didn't get very far. I think he must use a lathe. I dunno about the titanium plungers. I hope that are rounded, and the weight reduction is not the only improvement. Edited September 18, 2007 by Suburban Commando Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKyle1 Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 What does "melted" mean? I have come across this term multiple times ... I got college... but... I don't get this! lol One other thought... has anyone tried to lighten a stock striker by drilling out the center - down the center axis of it? I was thinking about that as I was taking a dremel & cut-off wheel to make grooves in one once. I don't have a drill press so I have not tried it but it would seem that the structural integrity would hold up better then the ones with groves milled in it aka the Rhea mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suburban Commando Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 What does "melted" mean? I have come across this term multiple times ... I got college... but... I don't get this! lol I think you're making a joke, but. . . It's when you take the edges off. The cliche explanation is, "like a well used bar of soap." A "melted" 1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncowboy Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Joe tell us more! I want this back on top! J.Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seiko Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 Joe Thank you for posting this info! Before doing the modifications, 5.6lb's trigger pull (out of the box factory pull) After doing everything but the light weight striker (on backorder) my trigger pull is 2.3lb's. And I still have to do a polish job, so that might take a bit more off. No problems at all with the install other then having to fiddle with the distance to bend the arm on trigger bar 3 times to get it where I wanted it. Its so nice to have a true single action Glock with no takeup!!!!! I owe you a beer. Thanks again, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 Glad to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rik Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 JoeThank you for posting this info! Before doing the modifications, 5.6lb's trigger pull (out of the box factory pull) After doing everything but the light weight striker (on backorder) my trigger pull is 2.3lb's. And I still have to do a polish job, so that might take a bit more off. No problems at all with the install other then having to fiddle with the distance to bend the arm on trigger bar 3 times to get it where I wanted it. Its so nice to have a true single action Glock with no takeup!!!!! I owe you a beer. Thanks again, Kyle Seiko, did you move the trigger pad. Also, how much difference did bending the arm make. Thanks, Rik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltgov Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 Its so nice to have a true single action Glock with no takeup!!!!!I owe you a beer. Thanks again, Kyle Be careful when drawing your gun! No first stage, light second stage, no safety. Yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheirere Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 DrKyle1, I've gone thru the trouble of lightening the stock striker. I drilled all the way down the length to the head and then I milled a slot in the head and on the part the trigger bar hits. I basically copied what Lightning strikes did on the titanium unit. It's a lot of work. You really need carbide tools to do it. The outer case of the material is really hard. Drills don't last long even when you get past the outer case. The net result was a little lighter than what you could buy from Lightening Strikes. Unless you have the tools, it's really not worth the effort. Joe D, Do you sell a modified trigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suburban Commando Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 And I still have to do a polish job, so that might take a bit more off. A mirror polish took about a half pound off a stock 5.5lb. trigger. You'll only get a fraction of that half pound if you're down to 2.3lb. already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seiko Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Seiko, did you move the trigger pad. Also, how much difference did bending the arm make. Thanks, Rik Yes I did. Bending the arm just takes the takeup out of the trigger. I don't think it improves the pull (maybe a bit of perceived?). Be careful when drawing your gun!No first stage, light second stage, no safety. Yikes! Rule III: KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET This gun will be a "range gun" that I did it to. Not anything that I'd carry or use for home defense. Probably start using this for pin shoots to blow peoples minds. A mirror polish took about a half pound off a stock 5.5lb. trigger. You'll only get a fraction of that half pound if you're down to 2.3lb. already. Yeah I figure it would take me down to 2lb with the polish job and the lighter striker. This was done to a glock 20 I bought a few years ago and never shot. So it might come down a bit after that first few thousand rounds. I'm actually happy with where its at now. Its weird after shooting 1911's all these years to have a glock with the same trigger pull. Well weight wise anyway, still a very different feel to it like a upward feel instead of a straight back in the 1911. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 A word of caution guys. If done properly all of the safeties will still work. Don't bend the return spring tab too far forward or you will defeat the striker safety. You want the "nub" on the top of the trigger bar just starting to touch the striker safety plunger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suburban Commando Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Anybody have any tips on drilling the new hole in the trigger bar? I've spent a lot of time trying, and I only have a shallow divot to show for it. I annealed the steel, and I'm using a 5/64" ACE cobalt hard metal bit. I tried running the drill press as slow as it goes (500rpm, I think). When I saw that wasn't doing much good, I tried running the drill faster. I still have little more than a shallow divot. I've drilled new holes for the trigger spring before, which was tough, but this is friggin ridiculous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 The new trigger bars are very hard. I use a carbide bit on those. I run the press at about 300 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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