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Brian's gun setup


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Brian,

If you don't mind my asking, what is the basic setup on your 40 Limited gun. Recoil spring weight, how many shok buffs and how thick is each, what barrel in your SV (I am assuming the frame and slide are SV), sights (still Wilson's), extractor, ejector (extended or no), bull or bushing barrel, what lb mainspring, trigger and trigger insert (Enos insert?), hammer and sear brand, and long wide ext. dustcover and full profile slide or just standard (scalloped slide and frame ,dustcover)? I know this is a lot and I remember what you said about every 40 you have is different, but how about it. Thanks so much Brian.

Kevin

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OK, here's the list:

5" blue steel long dustcover frame

"Ribbed and Fluted" slide WITH stirrup cuts

Stainless steel grip safety, mainspring housing, and ambi safety.

Wilson rear site

.090 front

"Frame Saver" tungsten rod with 3 total .100" shock buffs.

    (one on the back and 2 on the front)    

5 oz tungsten mag well

10 or 11 lb wolfe straight weight spring

17 lb wolfe mainspring

bull barrel, shoeman

standard "tuned" Ed Brown extractor

Enos insert (of course) on tri-glide trigger and disconnector

Factory SV hammer and sear

That's about all I can think of for now. I'm sure I forgot something, and equally sure someone will call my attention to it.

be

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The stirrup cuts are the ones towards the front of the slide that are their in factory guns without long dust covers.  For looks they went to a flat, full profile slide to match the full dust cover.

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Hi Brian,

did you find the flutes to be a noticeable improvement?

I've checked the SV site, but can't find the specs for the flutes.

Under Standard IPSC rules any lightening of the slide would have to be to manufacturers specs I guess.

We have fitted Australisan Lissner barrels to our guns which are full profile, they don't have the taper like the Shuemans etc. This has meant milling out the inside of the slide which is another lightening option.

Thanks P.D.

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OK,

The Cominolli link is correct on the guide rod.

I use the buffs that come with the rod; however, I use a Wilson buff "on front." The Cominolli buffs are soft (good shock absorbtion), but they wear out quickly. The Wilson keeps ALL the buffs alive longer.

Phil,

On the fluted and ribbed: I like it because it reduces the slide's weight (the merits are explained elsewhere on this forum) and, it looks cool. I think it is the coolest looking of any slide configuration. But don't forget - I'm a function over form man.

be

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  • 4 months later...

Byron,

I'm in experimental mode with the sites, again, at this time. Right now I'm liking a .125 notch, standard depth, and a .115 front. Big and bold. I was running a .90 front and a .110 rear (standard). I think the standard notch on the Wilson is .125. I'll be having them on be.com soon, so I'll know for sure.

be

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  • 3 months later...

Peter,

I'm crazy backed up right now - I just moved, everything. And to boot, I'm on dial-up until I can get the DSL in, which could be a month or more. Ahhhhh! Well, leaving those excuses aside for the moment, I'll get one up sooner or later. Is there one somewhere in the classifieds... or maybe in the post where I detailed "how to protect your sights with my handy dandy sight protector." I can't remember where that one is posted at the moment.

be

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Until Brian can get caught up, I guess you will have to make do with these, one of which he mentioned above:

http://www.brianenos.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard...=3&topic=65

http://www.brianenos.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard...=1&topic=28

Ok, ok, the second one doesn't show the gun real well, but I couldn't resist the chance to bring the "egret" back to the top...

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  • 8 months later...

Brian,

I just bought a S&W 945 which was advertised as having a Bomar sight. On close post-purchase inspection I discovered it to be a Wilson Combat rear sight and felt a little dis-appointed. If you have chosen the Wilson sight I would assume that it is the equivalent of, or better than, the Bomar and, as a consequence, feel much better. Thanks.

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It was a (now abandoned) experiment, based on an idea from Walter Roper's "Experiments of a Handgunner." I've been using just the straight partidge style notch and post for the last 12 years, and feel, at speed, it's tough to beat. The trapezoidal notch looked cool when held statically, but when everything was bouncing all over the place it didn't give the feedback that patridge sights do.

be

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Brian,

In your book you say that you use the lightest spring feasible without gun damage and always use shock buffs. At that time you were shooting Smith and Wessons. Where can one obtain shock buffs for S&Ws ( specifically the M945) ??

I've tried Wilsons and S&W - no joy.

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