Securing Cone Comp To Barrel

[9x23]

I just searched 20+ pages and didn't find anything.

What's most common, red locktite?

[uscbigdawg]

Honestly with the rate at which comp designs change, I think I'd run blue, but lay it on thick. However if you're not a tinkerin' kinda guy, then by all means red loctite it on and wait for the next time you need to do a barrel swap.

Rich

[AlamoShooter]

No NO No

The white zone is for loading and unloading of pasangers only.

The Green is the stuff. = has to be heated to break the seal.

BUT I may not know nothing

JF

You can get it at the auto parts house

Edited November 27, 2006 by AlamoShooter

[shred]

Green sleeve retainer is what I've heard, but I'd ask one of the real Open gunsmiths to be sure.

[Matt Cheely]

High temp 2 part epoxy of your choice plus a set screw. That comp gets plenty hot enough to loosen red locktite.

[Harmon]

mike caylor jr uses silver solder on his...that comp aint comin off without mucho heat.

Harmon

[hitman]

Ah Frank Zappa.

Silver solder or epoxy.

[Huston in Austin]

Loctite 620, Cylindrical bonding compound. It is impervious to solvents and high strength. To remove comp apply heat with a propane torch, not on of those butane mini torches you'll never get it off. Also use a wrench to turn the barrel ( with the comp in a vise ). When you apply the Loctite, put a plug in the barrel to keep the Loctite out of the inside. A yellow foam ear plug works well. Get the comp aligned fairly quickly the Loctite sets up fast.

Have fun.

[Singlestack Wonder]

High temp 2 part epoxy of your choice plus a set screw. That comp gets plenty hot enough to loosen red locktite.

+1

[BrianH]

High temp 2 part epoxy of your choice plus a set screw. That comp gets plenty hot enough to loosen red locktite.

+1

Not if you clean it good and use primer

[Dan Sierpina]

Loctite 608, 680. The thick green stuff called Retaining Compound! The comp doesn't loosen until you use a propane torch to break the LocTite.

[Patrick Sweeney]

Ding!Ding!Ding! We have a winner! 680 Shaft and Bearing Locker, the gooey dark green stuff.

It hardens in the abscence of oxygen and friction, so once you start turning the comp on, don't stop until it is in place. If you stop, you'll have to heat with a torch, unscrew it, clean the threads with a wire wheel and start over. (Ask me how I know.)

Even heated, the stuff crumbles and forms a white powder that binds the threads. To remove the comp you'll need the torch, a wrench and probably a breaker bar as well.

If you heat your barrel by shooting to the point the 680 is no good any more, you've probably toasted the throat and rifling of your barrel.

[9x23]

Thanks guys. I just rebarreled my gun. It took a vise, cresent wrench and acetylene torch to get the old comp off. It still took 30 minutes of hard turning to get it off after I broke it loose. Now I know why the smith's have always recommended replacing the comp.

[Scout454]

Next time pre-heat your oven to 350. Put the barrel/comp inside and leave for 30 minutes. Remove (with an oven mit) clamp in a vice and unscrew the comp. Use the Green stuff. The red (even primed) will work loose.