Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Roll sizer commercial model power requirements US


Recommended Posts

I am a worrier so I wanted to make sure that I run one of these fellers without blowing fuses.

Got a quick response from the manufacturer, thought somebody else might be interested. 

 

"Good question.....not many ask this.
The commercial machines are TEFC single phase 370w x 110vac. They are fitted with a Nema 5-15 earthed plug for 15A rating.
They pull about 11A on DOL starts.
They are rated for 50Hz so will run comfortably on 60hz. "
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

I am a worrier so I wanted to make sure that I run one of these fellers without blowing fuses.

If your home or dwelling is still using "fuses" then there are greater things to worry about than the Rollsizer. 🤫

 

All kidding aside, I have one and so do many others I know and not one of us have any issues running the roll sizer on a normal home circuit.

 

Just to let you and others know, using it on rifle brass (I've run 223/5.56) is pointless because it only sizes the very bottom of the brass. Now 40, 9 and other pistol brass it has been a major help in restoring and consistency in my brass.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was having case gaging issue with my 223, until I started roll sizing my 223 brass.  I no longer have issue.  Obviously you have to completely resize it using proper sizing dies, but my failures were drastically reduced once I started roll sizing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, HesedTech said:

If your home or dwelling is still using "fuses" then there are greater things to worry about than the Rollsizer.

 

Hmmm. I'm an electrical engineer who has spent 30 years working with maintenance electricians if that matters, anyway, we can agree to disagree. Resetting breakers is certainly more convenient and both have a good track record, I will grant that.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Hmmm. I'm an electrical engineer who has spent 30 years working with maintenance electricians if that matters, anyway, we can agree to disagree. Resetting breakers is certainly more convenient and both have a good track record, I will grant that.

 

 

Obviously you didn’t get the humor. 


I’m not an electrical engineer nor an electrician, however I know modern homes and dwellings have been using trip and trip-free breakers on circuits for at least 40 years or longer. And in my area the electrical code has changed substantially in the past 10 years requiring more stringent wire gauges and circuit amperes.  

 

The point/humor was the home or dwelling electrical circuit is  pretty old if it still has fuses for the main box. 
 

Of course I have a very dry sense of humor… if at all. 😶‍🌫️

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, HesedTech said:

Obviously you didn’t get the humor.

 

Correct, it would never have occurred to me that you meant something derogatory about my home. Regardless, you meant it as a lite hearted remark so it is all good.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got mine yesterday. A couple limitations from reading the manual that I hadn’t noted elsewhere. 
 

1. If your brass is already lubed the manual says it won’t roll size correctly.  No biggie, I just happened to have a bunch of lubed brass that I suppose I need to clean again. 
 

2. If you let the roll sizer run empty you have problems with jams. In my case that means I need to slow the roll sizer down below the maximum speed that my Dillon case feeder drops brass and be more attentive to the process than planned. 
 

3. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you let it run empty the brass has a tendency to bounce when it comes down the shute causing it to sometimes jamb.

When I first got mine it was constantly jamming, mostly in the case feed, I had to run the Dillon case feed almost full speed to keep up and had all kinds of problems. The thing that fixed it for me was a Double Alpha shell plate, now I run it at like 3/4 speed, it keeps up at full speed on the sizer and I don't have to stand there and watch it constantly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, sharko said:

When I first got mine it was constantly jamming,

 

9mm only. 

Mine drove me nuts for a while until I rotated the drop tube holder farther forward (downstream) than what looked right to me. Now, as you said, the thing that keeps me from being able to walk away from it is my Dillon case feeder (all stock). 

 

Will look into the AA shell plate, but if I wasn't such a fussy fart it all is plenty good as is, I just have to multi task nearby so I can hear it when the shells stop rattling and I need to fiddle with the feeder a moment. Before spending money I am going to clean the Dillon shell plate thoroughly and see if the coating of lube and gunk on it from lubed brass is part of the problem. 

 

Fun so far!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

9mm only. 

Mine drove me nuts for a while until I rotated the drop tube holder farther forward (downstream) than what looked right to me. Now, as you said, the thing that keeps me from being able to walk away from it is my Dillon case feeder (all stock). 

 

Will look into the AA shell plate, but if I wasn't such a fussy fart it all is plenty good as is, I just have to multi task nearby so I can hear it when the shells stop rattling and I need to fiddle with the feeder a moment. Before spending money I am going to clean the Dillon shell plate thoroughly and see if the coating of lube and gunk on it from lubed brass is part of the problem. 

 

Fun so far!

Kevin from Rollsizer gave me some tips on the case feed.

  • Upgrade the case feeder motor kit. Talk to immortal arms (Mark Attanasio) in Virginia. He sells an upgrade kit that bolts straight in. it allows a faster speed, more powerful motor and reverse…..wonderful thing. Alternatively talk to Brian at Hasgrok.com he makes a casefeeder that is a serious alternative to the Dillon. It’s a little more expensive than the Dillon but MUCH faster / more powerful. Tell him I sent you.
  • Remove the sharp edge on the underside of the Dillon Shellplate, the sharp edge is from a mould release and seems to catch on the extractor groove of the case, get generous with cutting and radiusing the edge with a sharp knife. Radius the edge by 3-4mm.
  • Cut back the discharge edge of the hopper by 1/4'” and then cut it back at 45 degrees. This allows the cases  to start dropping earlier. Doesn twork well with rifle cases but if you have a later casefeeder the metal bridge can be extended to allow rifle cases to work better.

I tried them on the stock case feed (variable speed) and it helped but the DA case feed plate solved everything, don't even have to use the small funnel when doing 9's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Immortal case feed motor and DAA plate in the bowl will outrun the machine.  Works great.  The spring loaded lever things are also a huge improvement over the old solid ones, which were the biggest PIA initially.  I built my own base and relocated the case feed to run a solid tube and straight feed.  Works much better.

 

 

IMG_0055.jpg

IMG_0056.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, sharko said:

Kevin from Rollsizer gave me some tips on the case feed.

 

All of which look interesting and may help me down the road. Thanks to all for input. 

 

For what it is worth, I am a dummy sometimes. In the picture above this post you see the black rings on the drop tube that are from transfer of lube and etc off of the cases. My case feeder had that black gunk all over the exposed surfaces that contact brass inside the bowl and on the shell plate, I had not cleaned that area in years. I cleaned everything well with goo-gone, particularly the holes on the outer edge of the shell plate. Since cleaning I've only run about 800 rounds but I have not had one jam, which is a step change, and the plate seems to be dropping shells faster (a higher percentage of the holes in the shell plate are full). 

 

Before buying the roll sizer I would have benefited from cleaning the feeder, but my reloading is so much slower than feeding the rs that cleaning the jams wasn't really enough of a nuisance to fret over. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

In the picture above this post you see the black rings on the drop tube that are from transfer of lube and etc off of the cases.

 

Those rings are from dirt, etc., not case lube as cases aren't going to be squeaky clean even after 2+ hours tumbling in brand new media.  Also, that tube has probably seen 50-100k rounds through it.  As for the rollersizer not working if cases are lubed, that makes zero sense because as long as the cases are rotating as they go through the dies, as compared to sliding through, it's doing what it's supposed to do.  Not sure what the mfr's technical background is, but some of his claims have been highly questionable, as is this one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

As for the rollersizer not working if cases are lubed, that makes zero sense because as long as the cases are rotating as they go through the dies, as compared to sliding through, it's doing what it's supposed to do.

 

I can't explain it. With stuff like this I tend to think of a multi million dollar hydraulic press system my company purchased the rights to. Corporate engineering went through the drawings and eliminated everything that made little sense, after they built it it would not perform as promised, eventually the designers of the press reviewed the improvements and determined that we had taken their revision 3 design and modified it to very closely match their original design. 

 

Long winded way of saying that sometimes experience shows you what you wouldn't think of. Perhaps that thought does not apply in this circumstance, do not know. 

 

Cleaning the oem Dillon shell plate only kept things jam free for about 1,000 cases. Seems like only a very slight amount of the black crud is enough to cause problems. Anyone know if the double alpha shell plate helps with jams on the old two speed Dillon case feeders? The shell flipper that comes with the plate does not work with the older Dillons so I don't know if the AA plate would help with jams. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/24/2023 at 8:10 AM, ltdmstr said:

Not sure what the mfr's technical background is, but some of his claims have been highly questionable, as is this one.

 

Kevin Whitehead is a mechanical engineer and I believe a competitive shooter. Does industrial designing if I recall. When I bought mine I had a question and he called and we talked for a hour, seemed bright to me.

 

9 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Cleaning the oem Dillon shell plate only kept things jam free for about 1,000 cases. Seems like only a very slight amount of the black crud is enough to cause problems. Anyone know if the double alpha shell plate helps with jams on the old two speed Dillon case feeders? The shell flipper that comes with the plate does not work with the older Dillons so I don't know if the AA plate would help with jams. 

 

The DA plate only had two more drop slots than the Dillon small pistol but I was able to slow my variable speed Dillon down to a reasonable speed and keep up with the Rollsizer at full speed. Just seems to drop them faster. I havent tried their plate in the older bowl, the one with the metal plate on the side I assume your talking about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/24/2023 at 4:17 AM, IHAVEGAS said:

 

All of which look interesting and may help me down the road. Thanks to all for input. 

 

For what it is worth, I am a dummy sometimes. In the picture above this post you see the black rings on the drop tube that are from transfer of lube and etc off of the cases. My case feeder had that black gunk all over the exposed surfaces that contact brass inside the bowl and on the shell plate, I had not cleaned that area in years. I cleaned everything well with goo-gone, particularly the holes on the outer edge of the shell plate. Since cleaning I've only run about 800 rounds but I have not had one jam, which is a step change, and the plate seems to be dropping shells faster (a higher percentage of the holes in the shell plate are full). 

 

Before buying the roll sizer I would have benefited from cleaning the feeder, but my reloading is so much slower than feeding the rs that cleaning the jams wasn't really enough of a nuisance to fret over. 

 

 

I understand what you’re saying about the feeder and not the rollsizer itself. On my Lee APP I noticed the black crud buildup on the tubes and collator funnel. Thought it was just discoloration at first but with closer examination there’s all kinds of crap in it. (Bits of brass ect) It’s also kinda sticky and almost abrasive to the point of hanging onto the brass. I did the same as you and cleaned everything and even on the shake-N-feed it made a difference. Even with washed brass it shows up, just not as bad as with semi clean. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

the AA plate is 150% worth every penny. 

 

Running 9/40/45, you can run all 6 bolts, and it keeps up with zero issues, i actually had to turn down the speed of the upgraded motor from Mark, so they "run" all the time.

 

As an added benefit, the AA plate also drastically reduces jams in the tube. They stil happen, but at a FAR less rate. I'm going to take a dremel and bevel the bottom of the AA plate openings and that should help stop the jams even more. I had good luck doing that to the Dillon plate, before the AA plate came out

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, 99mpower said:

the AA plate is 150% worth every penny. 

 

Ordered one yesterday :) 

 

If you didn't mind sometime it would be interesting to see a picture of the beveled Dillon plate that worked out well. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...