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Disable RL1100 Swaging?


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Looking at getting a RL1100.  I'm only shooting pistol, so I don't need/desire swaging ... I'm assuming this can be disabled.? Do you just remove the swage rod tip?  What do your stations and die setup look like if you don't use swaging?  Thanks.

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47 minutes ago, SIGcurious said:

Looking at getting a RL1100.  I'm only shooting pistol, so I don't need/desire swaging ... I'm assuming this can be disabled.? Do you just remove the swage rod tip?  What do your stations and die setup look like if you don't use swaging?  Thanks.

 

Adjusting the swage rod tip position and associated swaging depth is very easy and is a fundamental part of setting up your swaging process.

A couple of open end wrenches...

 

Adjusting the tip so that it doesn't swage at all is therefore also very straightforward.

 

It is also possible to completely remove the swage rod assembly if so desired although that is a bit more involved.

 

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36 minutes ago, Orion1 said:

I'm not seeing much 45ACP brass to swage on my RL1100. What die(s) can I substitute in this swage stage?

 

Probably a number of options...

You could have a dedicated decapping die in station 2 and then a dedicated sizing die (no decapper) in the swage station.

You could have your normal sizing/decapper in station 2 and put a dedicated expanding/flare die in the swage station.

I'm sure somebody will chime in with some others.

 

Setting up your dies is not a one size fits all type of thing. Talk to 10 different people and you'll get multiple variations on how to do it.

Just because someone chooses a particular solution does not mean that is the only right way to do it. That is just an option that works for them.

Edited by ddc
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5 minutes ago, ddc said:

 

Probably a number of options...

You could have a dedicated decapping die in station 2 and then a dedicated sizing die (no decapper) in the swage station.

You could have your normal sizing/decapper in station 2 and put a dedicated expanding/flare die in the swage station.

I'm sure somebody will chime in with some others.

 

 

Thanks for the insight here. What are the pros of doing each?

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59 minutes ago, Sarge said:

Quite a bit of 9mm can be crimped. If I werent going to swage I'd get a 750 with bullet feeder and case feeder

 

I agree with Sarge here.  If only shooting pistol I would tend to lean to the 750.  Conversions are way cheaper.

 

If you think there is any chance that 223 or similar rounds, or adding Mark7 automation in the future then go the 1100 route. I have heard the Mark7 automation for the 750 is not ideal.

 

Something to keep in mind that there are pistol rounds running crimped primers as mentioned above.  

 

16 minutes ago, ddc said:

You could have your normal sizing/decapper in station 2 and put a dedicated expanding/flare die in the swage station.

I'm sure somebody will chime in with some others.

 

I still swage and have a Redding flaring die in this station for pistol rounds.   The flaring die and lube essentially eliminates all sticking of the press.  It runs silky smooth.

 

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45 minutes ago, Orion1 said:

 

Thanks for the insight here. What are the pros of doing each?

 

They are just variations on the theme as opposed to better or worse.

 

For someone starting out, say on an 1100, I'd suggest going with a pretty standard set up to begin with.

 

I think most loaders would consider the following arrangement a reasonably common "baseline" setup for the 1100:

 

Stations..

1: case feed

2: size/decap

3. swage

4. prime

5. powder

6. bullet feed

7. bullet seat

8. crimp

 

(I realize you are considering not swaging but as has been mentioned if you are not then the 750 might be a better/cheaper option.)

 

Once you've got this general solution up and running you may find that it works just fine. It does for many.

 

I'd wait until I was into the game a little bit more before changing things up.

 

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39 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

I still swage and have a Redding flaring die in this station for pistol rounds.   The flaring die and lube essentially eliminates all sticking of the press.  It runs silky smooth.

 

 

I did that for a while and it worked well. I now have the CNC tool head so I run the Redding die over the priming station. I really like that die for a dedicated flaring die.

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1 minute ago, OptimiStick said:

which CNC toolhead? I'm having trouble finding them with the threaded primer station

 

I picked one up from the CNC Shooter web site.

 

It was quite a while back at this point. At least a year ago and probably closer to two.

My understanding is that he did a final run of toolheads and that was going to be it.

 

There is at least one thread on this forum in which this subject is addressed.

I would think a search could turn it up.

 

I've also heard that FW Arms is either thinking about, or planning on, doing something similar.

 

Here is a link to the CNC Shooter for what it's worth; he was pretty responsive to questions. http://www.cncshooter.com/dillon-super-1050-toolhead.html

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If you back it all the way off it wouldnt make contact. You could seperate decapping/ sizing as an option there (no advantage in my opinion on pistol). You could put a DAA magnetic powder check there and set it just above the bottom to make sure there is no debris in the case.(every once in a while a 22 gets in)

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18 hours ago, ddc said:

 

I've also heard that FW Arms is either thinking about, or planning on, doing something similar.

 

Here is a link to the CNC Shooter for what it's worth; he was pretty responsive to questions. http://www.cncshooter.com/dillon-super-1050-toolhead.html

 

On Point MFG responded to me that they are about to resume theirs. They had stopped to redo theirs for 1100 compatibility and are ready to restart them. Next couple of months they said. 

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1 minute ago, OptimiStick said:

 

On Point MFG responded to me that they are about to resume theirs. They had stopped to redo theirs for 1100 compatibility and are ready to restart them. Next couple of months they said. 

 

That is good to know. It seems that there is a fair number of people interested in such an item.

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55 minutes ago, ddc said:

 

That is good to know. It seems that there is a fair number of people interested in such an item.

 

Yeah, I'm one of them.  I talked myself out of one when I first started looking last year, and tried the Everlades hold down instead, but when I decided I wanted that extra station after all, its just not available.

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On 1/22/2023 at 9:54 AM, SIGcurious said:

I'm only shooting pistol, so I don't need/desire swaging

Just because you don't "need" a swage station I would still recommend the 1100 over the 750 if you have the $$. It is very easy to remove the swage rod from the press and use the station for something else. However, leaving the swage rod there, properly adjusted, will not wear out your pockets. What it will do is jam the press if you still have a primer in the pocket and that is a goo thing. You then can stop and remove the brass before the primer station and a smashed primer happens.

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32 minutes ago, Tom Freeman said:

Get the 1100 and cry once.

 

Incorrect.  I cry with every tool head I purchase. 

 

I am too lazy to use the same tool head and reset dies for every caliber.  Yes I understand my laziness is what is truly creating the tears.  

 

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7 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

Incorrect.  I cry with every tool head I purchase. 

 

I am too lazy to use the same tool head and reset dies for every caliber.  Yes I understand my laziness is what is truly creating the tears.  

 

 

I don't think that's being lazy; that's being smart. Sometimes being smart is expensive... lol...

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I went from a 650 to an 1100 specifically to get a swagging station for my 9mm's reloads. I was getting a lot of crimped brass pickup and sorting them was tedious. No worries anymore. 

 

Here's a tool head with the potential for a die in the priming station. Has a build in LED light too:

https://usa-shop.armanov.com/shop/quick-change-toolhead-assembly-for-dillon-super-1050-and-dillon-rl-1100-371?category=14#attr=551

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On 1/24/2023 at 7:05 PM, HesedTech said:

 

Just because you don't "need" a swage station I would still recommend the 1100 over the 750 if you have the $$. It is very easy to remove the swage rod from the press and use the station for something else. However, leaving the swage rod there, properly adjusted, will not wear out your pockets. What it will do is jam the press if you still have a primer in the pocket and that is a goo thing. You then can stop and remove the brass before the primer station and a smashed primer happens.

In addition to the benefits mentioned by @HesedTech, I found out with the RL1100 that a correctly set up swage and hold down significantly helped to reduce variances in OAL. 

 

Even though I use same headstamp, fully pre-processed brass, I was getting measurable reductions in finished cartridge OAL consistency.  IMO, with the swage station being directly across from the seating station, it can have a positive or negative affect on shell plate flex.

 

 

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