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Optic Milling thoughts


Racinready300ex

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For me it makes me leery. Slide ride optics die early deaths a lot and the lack of surface contact makes me uneasy. Puts more stress on the bosses as well as presents that stress at a different angle and uneven spread. 
 

did they mount the optic for you?  How big are talking can you slide paper under it?

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23 minutes ago, Nathanb said:

For me it makes me leery. Slide ride optics die early deaths a lot and the lack of surface contact makes me uneasy. Puts more stress on the bosses as well as presents that stress at a different angle and uneven spread. 
 

did they mount the optic for you?  How big are talking can you slide paper under it?

 

They did mount it, can't get paper under it. 

 

My concerns were basically the same as yours, just not sure at what point it would be a issue. 

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Curious.  With a milled slide I would suspect either the milling or the optic is not true.  I am assuming you are not using an adapter plate.  The only other thing I could see happening is the milling is not allowing the optic to sit flush?  What I mean by this is the front "wall" of the milled area the front of the optic pressed against.  Not the area under the optic.  Most likely the front if that is where the gap is.  Or are the bosses holding the optic up?


I have seen gaps in adapter plates between the slide and the plate, but since the plate is held firmly in place from the manufacturers optic milled area I have not worried about a failure.  I have also not experienced any failures with any of the plates I have used.

 

I would be worried in this case, if the optic is not sitting flush from front to back damage may occur to the optic.  

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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:

Curious.  With a milled slide I would suspect either the milling or the optic is not true.  I am assuming you are not using an adapter plate.  The only other thing I could see happening is the milling is not allowing the optic to sit flush?  What I mean by this is the front "wall" of the milled area the front of the optic pressed against.  Not the area under the optic.  Most likely the front if that is where the gap is.  Or are the bosses holding the optic up?


I have seen gaps in adapter plates between the slide and the plate, but since the plate is held firmly in place from the manufacturers optic milled area I have not worried about a failure.  I have also not experienced any failures with any of the plates I have used.

 

I would be worried in this case, if the optic is not sitting flush from front to back damage may occur to the optic.  

Sounds almost like something you would get with not true scope rings on a bolt gun.. GO clamping down on them and warp the scope.
Maybe take off the opptic, and clean and dry everything. Could be something as simple as a hydraulic lock with a dab of oil  in the boss holes. Or a slight bur somewhere.

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4 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

I can see light between the optic and the slide in the front but not the back

You didn't write who milled it for you, but the mill work should/must have lugs to fit into the optic holes. If they aren't there then yes this is a problem, but if they are as long as the optic bottom/base sits snug against the slide it should be okay. Remember if you purchase an adapter plate from EGW for the dove tail there isn't a front or rear edge for the optic to rest against, only the lugs.

 

Also don't forget the cut is made to fit the type of optic mounted, Trijicon, Burris, ..., and often the optics vary in length while using the same lugs and mounting holes.

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53 minutes ago, HesedTech said:

You didn't write who milled it for you, but the mill work should/must have lugs to fit into the optic holes. If they aren't there then yes this is a problem, but if they are as long as the optic bottom/base sits snug against the slide it should be okay. Remember if you purchase an adapter plate from EGW for the dove tail there isn't a front or rear edge for the optic to rest against, only the lugs.

 

Also don't forget the cut is made to fit the type of optic mounted, Trijicon, Burris, ..., and often the optics vary in length while using the same lugs and mounting holes.

 

The bottom is where the space is. It tapers from front to back with a small amount of light in the front and none in the back. 

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1 hour ago, Joe4d said:

Sounds almost like something you would get with not true scope rings on a bolt gun.. GO clamping down on them and warp the scope.
Maybe take off the opptic, and clean and dry everything. Could be something as simple as a hydraulic lock with a dab of oil  in the boss holes. Or a slight bur somewhere.

 

I'm going to try that when I get home. 

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19 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

 

The bottom is where the space is. It tapers from front to back with a small amount of light in the front and none in the back. 

Not the best news, it should be milled flat. Take the optic off and use a straight edge, a perfectly straight one, and check the milled surface. Do the same to the bottom of the optic. Both should be flat, but if it's the optic it's a lot easier to replace than a slide. If it's the slide contact the shop. 

 

If all else fails you could use the old stand by fix; JB Weld to fill the gap 😬. However, the milling job should have been perfect considering the quality of CNC tools these days.

 

I hope the optic is your issue.

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45 minutes ago, pcar157 said:

Why not call/send an email to the company that milled the slide and ask for their input?  Seems like that would be the first option.

 

Actually that was my first move, and I posted here while awaiting a response to see what people thought.

 

They said as long as it's tight and can be zeroed they're not concerned. They've seen issues with the optic body not being true, or even flexing when tightened down. 

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An electronic board lives in the bottom of that optic.  Flexing the case with the violent moment of the action of a slide mounted optic would be worth taking a chance in my eyes.

 

I cannot imagine flexing of the optic in any manner is acceptable, but its not my optic so....

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I've had this issue with one shop I no longer use. I had them mill the slide and than I mounted the optic when I received it back. Guess what their response was...

 

I sent the slide and the optic back to them and it came back mounted with the identical issue. When I asked they basically said I was acting stupidly and the set up was fine.

 

I placed the SRO on a perfectly flat surface and it is absolutely true, sent pictures. 

 

The recoil bosses were cut badly and the pocket was a little too tight. A little file work and I got it worked out, but I will never use ZR Tactical again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have an S2 that I bought from a friend that was direct milled for a specific Trijicon SRO (exact optic).  Holding it up to the light, you can see under the optic almost all the way across with the exception of the front, back, and center (where the screws are).  The optic is fit so tightly into the slide that I usually have to tap it in with a plastic mallet.  Funny enough, when I take the optic off for cleaning, the zero seems to remain unchanged.  There are no recoil bosses and the optic is basically supported by the housing front to back.  I am not sure how you could have recoil bosses on a standard S2 mill job as the SRO actually hangs over the sides and you can see into the recesses for the bosses.  I have absolutely hammered on the gun and had no issues to date.  Granted, the optic could die tomorrow...

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I had the RDS plate system from CZC milled onto a Bull shadow and there were areas where light would come through from between the slide and the plate, when the optic was mounted there was no light between the optic and plate however. I shot that gun for two years without a problem. I now have a S2 milled by F4E and there is no light at all and yes it is mounted very low.

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  • 2 months later...

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