Timney Glock trigger headache.

[eboggs]

I know there’s a lot of posts here about the Timney Glock trigger, and I think I’ve read them all. 
 

Unless I missed this issue, which I very well may have, I haven’t seen it brought up here, but elsewhere online with no real “good” reasons or remedies given. 
 

Running an otherwise stock G34 gen5 in terms of striker, striker spring etc…I’m getting WAY to many light primer strikes….first time I took the gun out, I ended my range session as I couldn’t do a Bill Drill without a click no bang…

 

One guy online said he polished tue top of the trigger bar, theorizing the striker was dragging upon release and it fixed his issue, I did the same, and it DID help, but not fix the issue 100%. Maybe I just need to take a little more material off….

 

I reached out to Timney but haven’t heard back yet. Anyone else know what’s going on here? 
 

 

[vluc]

Might be some frame rubbing or angle of the connector.  Swap out some parts, see what else is going on.  Striker channel clear of debris, etc.

 

I had trouble getting mine to work on the first G34.4 I tried it in, swapped out everything.  Put it in my backup 34.4 and it ran flawlessly.  That may not help much, not everybody has backup guns

[rooster]

Make sure the timney housing is completely down inside the glock trigger housing and the washer is in place and the screw is tight and locktited. If it rises just a little it impedes the firing pin causing the light strikes.

[eboggs]

36 minutes ago, vluc said:

Might be some frame rubbing or angle of the connector.  Swap out some parts, see what else is going on.  Striker channel clear of debris, etc.

 

I had trouble getting mine to work on the first G34.4 I tried it in, swapped out everything.  Put it in my backup 34.4 and it ran flawlessly.  That may not help much, not everybody has backup guns

I’ll give this a try. Thanks!

[eboggs]

2 minutes ago, rooster said:

Make sure the timney housing is completely down inside the glock trigger housing and the washer is in place and the screw is tight and locktited. If it rises just a little it impedes the firing pin causing the light strikes.

Just checked and appears to be seated properly. 
 

Here is another theory. Below is my pistol, I’ve seen the circled area mentioned before, where the trigger bar cant go far enough rearward to release the striker. I can, but I think it’s VERY close. I’m wondering if I relieve this slightly, if it would allow the trigger bar to move further rearward and in turn, lowering MORE when it disengages the striker. It may be JUST enough to release the striker, but not enough to completely get out of the way….

 

Does that make any sense? 

[rooster]

Make sure the timney housing is completely down inside the glock trigger housing and the washer is in place and the screw is tight and locktited. If it rises just a little it impedes the firing pin causing the light strikes.

[rooster]

Makes sense.move read about that also. I don’t think you can hurt anything by trying.

[sandflea316]

Have you tried a tried polishing spring cups, channel liner and striker leg?  How about putting in a heavier striker spring?

Do you feel the trigger dragging? 

 

I have 4 timney triggers

3 for a gen 3 and 1 for a gen 4.

 

All gen 3 were drop in without issues.

 

Gen 4 on the other hand has been a headache.  Trigger hangs up on the reset if I release the trigger slow and deliberately.

I had to do the following: 

 

Remove and polished material on the frame where trigger bar made contact.

Filed down and polished raised spots inside locking block.  

Removed a tiny bit of material oof the trigger bar's bird beak.

Still not 100% but much better.  Still exhibit some reset issues when gun gets dirty after approx 150 rounds.   

 

[bubba72]

I had an issue similar to yours. I put my Timney trigger in a G3 19. When I rack the slide it would reset the striker and when I pulled the trigger dry firing it seemed like it worked ok and racking the slide everything would reset. When I live fired the gun the striker would not hit the primer.

 

After doing some trouble shooting It was, the for lack of a better term, the fin on the trigger bar was not pushing down on the striker safety plunger far enough to let the striker go completely forward to hit the primer. The striker safety plunger I was using had a slight radius on the area the fin pushes down on. With the slide off when the trigger was pulled the trigger bar would move to the right until the trigger bar was against the frame. With the trigger bar moving to the right it would move the fin closer to the edge of the striker safety plunger and not push the plunger down far enough to let the striker move all the way forward.

 

I fixed the problem by putting a stock plunger in the slide. The trigger bar still moved to the right but with the stock plunger it pushed it down enough to let the striker go all the way forward and hit the primer. If you look down the mag well and pull the trigger you can see the trigger bar fin move to the edge of the plunger. With the trigger bar moving against the frame it does not leave much contact between the fin and the plunger.

I tried it in another G19 and the trigger bar would move to the right in it to. I think the slot in the trigger shoe is to wide which lets the trigger bar move to the right when the trigger is pulled. I thought about maybe putting a shim in the trigger shoe slot to eliminate some of the movement in the trigger bar but never got that far yet as it works with the stock plunger.

 

 

Edited December 10, 2021 by bubba72
Change

[rooster]

What connector are you using? If your using the minus the slope is more gradual and removing material might fix. Put dot  connector back in, if problem goes away then your minus or whatever connector your using is the problem.

[Sinister4]

on gen 5 make sure the firing pin block plunger is TOTALLY out of the way at the pin drop, i've seen 2 already where it just drags enough to do exactly what you are stating, with the timney trigger, just enough drag to impede a full primer hit.    just something else to check

[eboggs]

10 hours ago, rooster said:

What connector are you using? If your using the minus the slope is more gradual and removing material might fix. Put dot  connector back in, if problem goes away then your minus or whatever connector your using is the problem.

My 34 gen5 came with a minus as most seem to do unless it’s blue label. 
 

Timney responded to my email very promptly and advised they believe the trigger bar is out of spec. They are sending me a replacement, so we will see! 
 

Appreciate all the responses fellas, will let y’all know if the new trigger bar is a fix. If not I’ll be looking into a few more mods. 

[rooster]

25 minutes ago, eboggs said:

My 34 gen5 came with a minus as most seem to do unless it’s blue label. 
 

Timney responded to my email very promptly and advised they believe the trigger bar is out of spec. They are sending me a replacement, so we will see! 
 

Appreciate all the responses fellas, will let y’all know if the new trigger bar is a fix. If not I’ll be looking into a few more mods. 

If you have a dot try that. Did you purchase new? I believe all gen 5 full service and compact models come with dot.

[eboggs]

4 hours ago, rooster said:

If you have a dot try that. Did you purchase new? I believe all gen 5 full service and compact models come with dot.

Bought new. Unfortunately it’s the only Glock I own at the moment. However I had two g34 gen5’s last year, both blue label that had dot connectors. This one I purchased NON blue label as they’re unavailable at the moment. It has a minus connector.

[superslowmo]

2 hours ago, eboggs said:

Bought new. Unfortunately it’s the only Glock I own at the moment. However I had two g34 gen5’s last year, both blue label that had dot connectors. This one I purchased NON blue label as they’re unavailable at the moment. It has a minus connector.

Yup, I bought a new red label G34 Gen5 a couple months back and it came with a (-) as well. 

[fergus556]

I had issues with reset. Got hold of them and was told some of the trigger bars were out of spec. Had a new one in 2 days. 

[LeviSS]

2 hours ago, fergus556 said:

I had issues with reset. Got hold of them and was told some of the trigger bars were out of spec. Had a new one in 2 days. 

I bought one of the first ones they put out.  Maybe that's part of the problem i'm having.  Did you have to send your old trigger back?

[D_B_X]

On 12/8/2021 at 8:53 AM, eboggs said:

Just checked and appears to be seated properly. 
 

Here is another theory. Below is my pistol, I’ve seen the circled area mentioned before, where the trigger bar cant go far enough rearward to release the striker. I can, but I think it’s VERY close. I’m wondering if I relieve this slightly, if it would allow the trigger bar to move further rearward and in turn, lowering MORE when it disengages the striker. It may be JUST enough to release the striker, but not enough to completely get out of the way….

 

Does that make any sense? 

I have the same issue in this area. I have 2 Timney trigger. While the one in G34.5 works perfectly, the 2nd one I put in G19.5 had this issue. The trigger bar can not go back enough to release the striker. In the end I dremeled this area by quite a bit, more than a little. The trigger now functions perfectly fine. I don't know if this is a tolerance issue on Timney or on Glock. 

[fergus556]

20 minutes ago, LeviSS said:

I bought one of the first ones they put out.  Maybe that's part of the problem i'm having.  Did you have to send your old trigger back?

No. They told me they would send one and they did. It seems to reset properly. I'll shoot it this week and we'll see. Like I said they sent the new part at once. Part of my problem was I didn't have the trigger return spring installed properly. 

[Sinister4]

Also with the Timney, the gun MUST go into battery fully held vertical, slide released slowly, more so than the normal type trigger. on the 34 it usually will require a 13 pound/4.5 striker or more spring to do this. I pretty much went to a 14 pound on the gen 5 34's  for 100% 

Edited January 1, 2022 by Sinister4

[MarilynMonbro]

On 12/9/2021 at 7:15 AM, Sinister4 said:

on gen 5 make sure the firing pin block plunger is TOTALLY out of the way at the pin drop, i've seen 2 already where it just drags enough to do exactly what you are stating, with the timney trigger, just enough drag to impede a full primer hit.    just something else to check

How do you check this and what's the fix?  I'm getting lots of light primer strikes on mine. When I look through the magwell and pull the striker I can see the plunger slightly jump/move when the striker is released. Makes me think the fin isn't pushing the plunger enough

[Sinister4]

27 minutes ago, MarilynMonbro said:

How do you check this and what's the fix?  I'm getting lots of light primer strikes on mine. When I look through the magwell and pull the striker I can see the plunger slightly jump/move when the striker is released. Makes me think the fin isn't pushing the plunger enough

  remove the backplate and the striker,  with small flashlight helping carefully look into the hole while pulling the trigger, you will see if the plunger moves totally out out of the way of the striker bore  .....also look at the very edge of the plunger to see if its hitting slightly.  

[Marshal82]

On 12/8/2021 at 9:46 PM, bubba72 said:

I had an issue similar to yours. I put my Timney trigger in a G3 19. When I rack the slide it would reset the striker and when I pulled the trigger dry firing it seemed like it worked ok and racking the slide everything would reset. When I live fired the gun the striker would not hit the primer.

 

After doing some trouble shooting It was, the for lack of a better term, the fin on the trigger bar was not pushing down on the striker safety plunger far enough to let the striker go completely forward to hit the primer. The striker safety plunger I was using had a slight radius on the area the fin pushes down on. With the slide off when the trigger was pulled the trigger bar would move to the right until the trigger bar was against the frame. With the trigger bar moving to the right it would move the fin closer to the edge of the striker safety plunger and not push the plunger down far enough to let the striker move all the way forward.

 

I fixed the problem by putting a stock plunger in the slide. The trigger bar still moved to the right but with the stock plunger it pushed it down enough to let the striker go all the way forward and hit the primer. If you look down the mag well and pull the trigger you can see the trigger bar fin move to the edge of the plunger. With the trigger bar moving against the frame it does not leave much contact between the fin and the plunger.

I tried it in another G19 and the trigger bar would move to the right in it to. I think the slot in the trigger shoe is to wide which lets the trigger bar move to the right when the trigger is pulled. I thought about maybe putting a shim in the trigger shoe slot to eliminate some of the movement in the trigger bar but never got that far yet as it works with the stock plunger.

 

 

 

This was the issue I had. The reason I run Gen4 trigger bars in my gen3 guns. However it made the Timney not work at all. I actually cut a Gen4 trigger bar to fit the timney and it did work well but I don't like the feel of the Timney with the soft reset so I boxed it back up and sits in my spare parts bin.