bubba72

I have the standard Timney trigger kit in my G19 G3 and am using the standard striker spring. have run over 400 rounds through it with no light strike issues.

In your second set of pictures it looks like the cruciform bracket that holds the trigger return spring could be rubbing against the trigger housing. Can't magnify the image enough to tell for sure but you might check that out. If the bracket is rubbing the housing just remove some metal from the bracket to get clearance it will not affect the brackets function as all it does is anchor the trigger return spring. Also check the clearance of the trigger bar to the frame where the trigger bar rubs against the trigger connector. If the trigger bar is adjusted out to far from the housing it will force the end of the trigger bar against the frame and cause extra friction. You can remove metal from the rear of the trigger bar to get more clearance if needed. I would not remove more than .010 to .015 from the bar if needed. The other way you could get more clearance is to remove material from the frame just go easy if you do. Another thing to check is with the slide off pull the trigger and see if the cruciform drags on the trigger housing as it is pulled up over the housing. Looking down on the bracket it would be the right hand side of the cruciform bracket if it is dragging on the housing remove some plastic from the edge of the housing.

Hard to tell without checking out the gun myself but the problem you describe may be the trigger bar hitting the frame before the sear is released. Look at your frame and trigger bar as you pull the trigger to see if the bar hits the frame where it is indicated in the picture. If it is hitting you might have to remove some material from the frame to let the trigger bar go back further. This is a picture I borrowed from another post to show you where to check.

Timney Tech Support [technicalsupport@timneyusa.com] Jeff Herlov Technical Support Advisor Timney Triggers 2020 West Quail Ave Phoenix, AZ 85027 P: 623.223.1111 F: 623.223.1112 NRA Life Member I have talked to Jeff several times via email and he has responded the same day or he next. If that isn't the number you have called try it.

Depends on how you want to define ok. When I pull the trigger the sear releases the striker and the reset is quicker than I can shoot the gun. The reset can be felt it is better than with the other trigger bar. I haven't got a chance to go to the range for live fire yet but planning on going to the range this week. With the setup I have now it has a slightly under 3 lb trigger pull measured with my Wheeler digital gauge and a decent wall before the trigger breaks. Using a stock striker spring.

They sent me a new trigger bar last week. They said that they had gotten some that were out of spec. They said that the trigger bars were to long and were hitting the frame before the sear would be released. The new one they sent me works ok.

If you want to get the trigger pull lighter you can take the Timney housing and take the two pins out that hold the sear in position and take the spring out of the housing and clip a couple turns off. If you take it apart check for burrs inside of the housing where the holes have been drilled through the housing. I had a housing where the sear would not move at all. Took it apart and there were some small burrs where the holes had been drilled through the housing. I used some fine grit sandpaper to clean up the burrs and put it back together and it worked fine after removing the burrs. I also removed some metal from the end of the trigger bar where it could rub against the frame if the trigger connector pushed it out towards the frame. My trigger pull weight is currently 2.5 lbs average with a Wheeler electronic gauge.

Yes Glocks do have a sear. It is not a sear like a hammer fired gun has. The sear on a Glock is part of the cruciform it is the metal part on the end of the cruciform that has a slight upward angle. It is what catches the striker lug as the slide is racked. From what you are describing it sounds like the slide sets up higher on the frame than a normal Glock. If the slide sets up to high the sear will either not catch the lug on the striker or will just barely catch the striker lug. I helped a friend build a polymer 80 and had an issue similar to what you describe. Finally fixed it by bending the sear upward slightly to catch the striker lug. The cruciform is heat treated and is hard if you try to bend it you need to heat it up with a torch to soften it slightly if you don't it will likely break the sear off of the cruciform. My friend has put over 500 rounds through his P80 so far and it has run 100% after we fixed the sear issue. If you have an armorer's rear slide plate you could put it on the slide and see how much engagement you have between the sear and striker lug.

Since it does not work at all I would check the sear in the red housing to see if it moves up and down. You can check it with a small screwdriver or any small pointed tool. Just try pushing the sear up and down in the housing it should move up and down freely. The last one I bought the sear would not move at all. I removed the two pins that hold the sear in the housing and after taking the sear out found a burr inside the housing from where the hole had been drilled. I used some fine sand paper to remove the burr from the housing put it back together and it worked like it should. The sear moved up and down freely. I put mine in a G19 gen 3 and other than the funky reset runs 100%.

I had an issue similar to yours. I put my Timney trigger in a G3 19. When I rack the slide it would reset the striker and when I pulled the trigger dry firing it seemed like it worked ok and racking the slide everything would reset. When I live fired the gun the striker would not hit the primer. After doing some trouble shooting It was, the for lack of a better term, the fin on the trigger bar was not pushing down on the striker safety plunger far enough to let the striker go completely forward to hit the primer. The striker safety plunger I was using had a slight radius on the area the fin pushes down on. With the slide off when the trigger was pulled the trigger bar would move to the right until the trigger bar was against the frame. With the trigger bar moving to the right it would move the fin closer to the edge of the striker safety plunger and not push the plunger down far enough to let the striker move all the way forward. I fixed the problem by putting a stock plunger in the slide. The trigger bar still moved to the right but with the stock plunger it pushed it down enough to let the striker go all the way forward and hit the primer. If you look down the mag well and pull the trigger you can see the trigger bar fin move to the edge of the plunger. With the trigger bar moving against the frame it does not leave much contact between the fin and the plunger. I tried it in another G19 and the trigger bar would move to the right in it to. I think the slot in the trigger shoe is to wide which lets the trigger bar move to the right when the trigger is pulled. I thought about maybe putting a shim in the trigger shoe slot to eliminate some of the movement in the trigger bar but never got that far yet as it works with the stock plunger.

If you haven't got your reset problem figured out by now there is one other item to check. The trigger return spring sometimes is not strong enough to reliably reset the trigger. Putting a stronger spring in will give the reset a stronger reset which is good especially if you shoot from the reset.

Have a Canic TP9 FSx and I put the Vortex Venom on mine love it so far. You can buy a Freedom Smith trigger for the gun that will eliminate virtually all of the take up of the trigger pull. I put an Apex front face trigger on mine and if feels like a different gun with the new trigger. The reset which is already fantastic is slightly better with the Apex trigger. Other than a trigger I would not do anything else until you have put a couple hundred rounds through it to see how you like it. There is a Canik forum which has tons of good info about all model Canik's you should check it out for some ideas. I am running the original recoil spring in mine but some change them out depending on what load they are shooting. I did polish all of the internal parts though. I have close to 600 rounds through mine and so far 100% no failures to feed, fire or eject.

You can use a spring from a ball point pin as a trigger return spring. You will have to shorten it and bend a hook on each end of the spring. I had to play around with it until I got a good trigger reset but it will work. Home Depot sells a spring collection in a box that has at least 3 springs that are about the same diameter as the trigger spring that could be used but you have to tweak them to get them to work.

Copied from another post. Lots of good info on the Canik forum. From: http://www.rockyourglock.com. I ordered 01049 Glock Red 28 Newton Extra Power Firing Pin Spring $9.95 I had trouble trying to put my replacement Sig 320 guide rod in place, so from kingglock.com I ordered: G4-GRA1715CON Stainless Recoil Conversion Kit Fits Gen4 G17,22 W/15LB SPRING 1.00 $22.95 $22.95 This conversion has a washer fitting that accommodates the slightly shorter Glock recoil rod.

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