JP-5 reviews/input

[brian45acp]

Ok yeah I get it now, thanks. I had a quarter on my gmr13 to pre load the SCS a bit. 
 

I am glad you told me this because it wasn’t apparent why it was sticking.

 

I did try this mod and it worked awesome. I was too nervous running it in the match. I like to tinker but not modify outside how the factory intended. Once I try the 60 lock and white “lightest” spring I’ll decide to use this spring or not. It felt really good though. I was worried about it further shortening travel but it ran.

 

3 minutes ago, Z-Chaos-Factor said:

Heres a rough idea. You can just put quarters behind the spring as well. But you will want to measure and match the stroke length/ travel distance of the SCS its not a full stroke length. 

 

The kynshot is heavier than the SCS by like 2 ounces. But the kynshot makes up for it. I think its better than just the plain SCS but not anything game changing. 

 

 

 

[Z-Chaos-Factor]

13 minutes ago, brian45acp said:

Ok yeah I get it now, thanks. I had a quarter on my gmr13 to pre load the SCS a bit. 
 

I am glad you told me this because it wasn’t apparent why it was sticking.

 

I did try this mod and it worked awesome. I was too nervous running it in the match. I like to tinker but not modify outside how the factory intended. Once I try the 60 lock and white “lightest” spring I’ll decide to use this spring or not. It felt really good though. I was worried about it further shortening travel but it ran.

 

 

No worries. Interesting to see hear that it ran like that. I will bet its good like that. 

 

But again honestly the Jp5 is so good its almost negligible and I got much better when I spent the ammo doing drills and training instead of tinkering. But its fun I get it. 

 

[mule169]

I mean its the cream of the crop in every aspect. Its basically perfect in every of aspect. Like if you were to write down a wish list on a piece of paper it checks every box except for price. You can't really compare it to a direct blowback Ar9.

[brian45acp]

Seen so many posts saying the 70 and 60 lock pieces are picky. I started with the 70 and it ran perfect. Just got the 60 and it also runs perfect so far. Will shoot a match tomorrow to know for sure. Love the 60 lock piece and the dot is very stable. I am using the white spring which is the lightest. 

 

124gr jhp 133pf the gun runs and locks back on last round. 
124jhp 142pf no issues and locks back. Settled on this load for the 60 lock piece. 

 

Brass is hitting 7ft away which is just under the 9ft recommendation from JP. 
 

Just wanted to let others know not to be scared to try the 60 and 70 lock pieces. I tested the lock up by using a wood dowel squib rod from the muzzle end to unlock the bolt. It’s is a crazy amount of lock which explains why the dot is so stable. Way less weight in the bolt and SCS and now the lightest spring so it doesn’t slam forward.

[brian45acp]

Amazing with the 60 lock and white spring 124jhp 142pf which is about 1150fps. No malfunctions and so soft. 
 

Just wanted others to know not to be worried about trying the 60 lock. It’s well worth it.

 

I do clean my rifle to like new condition every match just fyi.

 

[Bdh821]

On 8/26/2023 at 4:42 PM, brian45acp said:

I do clean my rifle to like new condition every match just fyi.

 

Sounds like me back in the day with my MPX. Now with the JP5, I basically never clean it and it runs 100%

[brian45acp]

1 hour ago, Bdh821 said:

Sounds like me back in the day with my MPX. Now with the JP5, I basically never clean it and it runs 100%

Haha, I’ve always cleaned guns after shooting. 
 

Just found the magic to a clean comp. Tried all kinds of stuff including welders spatter spray. The best crap is the hornady one shot case lube. No more dremel with bras brush attachment to clean the comp. Mostly it will wipe out with Q tips and I use bore tech c4 carbon remover.

[k2pichu]

13 hours ago, brian45acp said:

Haha, I’ve always cleaned guns after shooting. 
 

Just found the magic to a clean comp. Tried all kinds of stuff including welders spatter spray. The best crap is the hornady one shot case lube. No more dremel with bras brush attachment to clean the comp. Mostly it will wipe out with Q tips and I use bore tech c4 carbon remover.

 

Do you have to wipe off and reapply the case lube every time you shoot? I normally just soak in c4 and scrape it off but that's a pain. I tried coating the comp in oil/clp one to see if that helped with removal but that didn't do anything.

[brian45acp]

6 hours ago, k2pichu said:

 

Do you have to wipe off and reapply the case lube every time you shoot? I normally just soak in c4 and scrape it off but that's a pain. I tried coating the comp in oil/clp one to see if that helped with removal but that didn't do anything.

Yeah I tried grease and oil and no good. I coat the living crap out of the comp then after the match clean it then do it again. Was very easy to clean after doing this then I re apply it again. I let it dry then hit it again. Not sure more means better but hate cleaning this vertical comp and the one shot works so good I’m going to use it and a lot of it. I noticed it also helps remove carbon also. 
 

I’ve tried so much stuff. I had an ultrasonic cleaner with Lucas products in it and it didn’t do much either. 
 

I read about CLR but I have seen vids of it staining stainless. I also read the reaction with lead makes a toxic gas. 
 

Give it a try. Cheap and easy to do.

 

Edited August 28, 2023 by brian45acp

[dtuns]

6 minutes ago, brian45acp said:

Yeah I tried grease and oil and no good. I coat the living crap out of the comp then after the match clean it then do it again. Was very easy to clean after doing this then I re apply it again. I let it dry then hit it again. Not sure more means better but hate cleaning this vertical comp and the one shot works so good I’m going to use it and a lot of it. I noticed it also helps remove carbon also. 
 

I’ve tried so much stuff. I had an ultrasonic cleaner with Lucas products in it and it didn’t do much either. 
 

I read about CLE but I have seen vids of it staining stainless. I also read the reaction with lead makes a toxic gas. 
 

Give it a try. Cheap and easy to do.

 

Do you mean CLR?

[k2pichu]

I had great luck with CLR on my ex-MPX since it's cheap and effective, but I have the titanium brake on my JP5 and I read that it can cause pitting on/react with titanium so I just use a c4 soak. I bought one of the dremel engravers to chip off the carbon but for some reason I haven't used it. 

[brian45acp]

1 hour ago, dtuns said:

Do you mean CLR?

Yeah sorry, spell check. CLR

[Bdh821]

22 hours ago, brian45acp said:

Haha, I’ve always cleaned guns after shooting. 
 

Just found the magic to a clean comp. Tried all kinds of stuff including welders spatter spray. The best crap is the hornady one shot case lube. No more dremel with bras brush attachment to clean the comp. Mostly it will wipe out with Q tips and I use bore tech c4 carbon remover.

I use a dremel engraver with a brass sharpened shotgun jag. Takes like 30 mins and I do it very few thousand rounds.  Essentially jack hammering the carbon until it chips off. wear safety glasses

Edited August 29, 2023 by Bdh821

[aRjayboy]

On 2/25/2023 at 2:58 AM, uhmeebuh said:

I did the same - installed an SD3G and radian safeties and it's run flawlessly from reloads, to factory stuff to some steel ammo just to see how it handles it.  At least so far....been a few thousand round with minimal cleaning.  So...we'll see?

 

How did you remove the safety? I tried to follow the manual from JP but i think the safety in JP-5 is different from what's shown in JP's manual because it doesn't have those encircled parts and the one with an arrow in my attached pictures

[aRjayboy]

On 8/10/2023 at 2:02 PM, K1L0 said:

Is anyone else seeing some wear at the rear of the ejection port? It looks like casings have been hitting there, and there are also two marks at the top of the ejection port.

I dont see any wear mark in the ejection port area but i saw these marks now in the magazine area after my first match last weekend. Im using a Techwell magwell 

Edited September 1, 2023 by aRjayboy

[brian45acp]

JP5 didn’t have an adjustable safety drum.

 

You gonna feel silly but I bet I know why you can’t remove the safety. Did you remove the grip so that the spring loaded detent disengages from the safety?

[aRjayboy]

1 hour ago, brian45acp said:

JP5 didn’t have an adjustable safety drum.

 

You gonna feel silly but I bet I know why you can’t remove the safety. Did you remove the grip so that the spring loaded detent disengages from the safety?

Yes i did. After removing the grip and the detent, the safety cant be pushed out. It just keeps on rotating 

[DwightSchrute]

5 minutes ago, aRjayboy said:

Yes i did. After removing the grip and the detent, the safety cant be pushed out. It just keeps on rotating 

Did you remove the trigger group?

[brian45acp]

3 hours ago, aRjayboy said:

Yes i did. After removing the grip and the detent, the safety cant be pushed out. It just keeps on rotating 

Doesn’t make sense. 2 things hold the safety in and that’s the detent and interference with the trigger group. You sure the detent is out and not stuck up in there? I use a magnet once the grip is off to grab the detent and remove it fully.

[aRjayboy]

9 hours ago, DwightSchrute said:

Did you remove the trigger group?

No thats something i didnt do since im following JP video about installing the safety (14min 56sec in video) but did it in reverse order

 

[aRjayboy]

6 hours ago, brian45acp said:

Doesn’t make sense. 2 things hold the safety in and that’s the detent and interference with the trigger group. You sure the detent is out and not stuck up in there? I use a magnet once the grip is off to grab the detent and remove it fully.

No need to use magnet. Just smack the grip area pointed down against your palm and the detent will land in your palm

[brian45acp]

Sounds like you figured it out. Trigger has to come out.

[DwightSchrute]

1 hour ago, aRjayboy said:

No thats something i didnt do since im following JP video about installing the safety (14min 56sec in video) but did it in reverse order

 

For what it’s worth, I had to take the trigger group out in order to get the JP safety out on my JP-5.  I called JP, and they said I might have to do that, and they were right.  The problem is that they Loctite the hell out of the anti-walk pins, and I had to destroy them to free up the trigger group to get it out from under the JP safety.  So I had to order new JP oversized anti-walk pins for the trigger group reinstall.  The guy I spoke to at JP was extremely helpful, so you might want to give them a call if you have any questions about your next steps.  In the end, it was all worth it for me because I LOVE the Radian Talon’s 45 degree safety switch for stock-on-belt starts.

Edited September 2, 2023 by DwightSchrute

[brian45acp]

Use a soldering iron tip in the head of the screws and hold it there for a while. It will help break the loctite. 

[DwightSchrute]

43 minutes ago, brian45acp said:

Use a soldering iron tip in the head of the screws and hold it there for a while. It will help break the loctite. 

I tried that, but I was only able to get one screw out.  I stripped the others.  The guy at JP recommended a certain drill bit size that they use there to break the screw heads off.  I can’t remember the size, but it actually worked well.