Die set 929

[tomjerry1]

Hello everyone, wondering what die set you are using for the S&W 929. I am waiting for some .358 bullets, and figure since they are .38 bullets, maybe I should be using the seating and crimping dies for the .38. Looks like I'll have to use some 9mm and .38/357 dies?

[pskys2]

9mm everything.  The 358 bullets will work with them, might have to adjust the powder drop/flare die down a shade more but that's all.

Heck I use the same 9mm dies for, all except for the sizing die which is 357 mag/38 special, my 627 and 38 short colts.

[MWP]

In order: Lee decap. Lee 38 super sizing. Lee 9mm sizing. Hornady flare. Powder. Powder check. Mr Bulletfeeder bullet drop. Lee 9mm seating. Lee factory crimp. 
 

That’s for .355, .356, .357 and .358 plated and .358 coated. 

[RangerMcFadden]

6 hours ago, pskys2 said:

might have to adjust the powder drop/flare die down a shade more but that's all.

I always had a hard time getting it just right in my 550. I got a different funnel for my 358 and it’s been helpful. Shipping is pricey but ended up worth it. If you have more than four stations you’re probably good.

 

https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1736

[pskys2]

7 hours ago, RangerMcFadden said:

I always had a hard time getting it just right in my 550. I got a different funnel for my 358 and it’s been helpful. Shipping is pricey but ended up worth it. If you have more than four stations you’re probably good.

 

https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1736

The only issue I ever had, with either the 550 or now the 1050, was due to case stretching or shrinking issues.  New brass has always been different lengths than fired brass.  If I remember correctly handgun cases shorten with use.  So the first loading I'd have to adjust the die up for less bell and then after a couple of firings back down for more bell.

Now some of my 45 cases have probably been around for 30 firings and are a bit shorter still.  Funny though I have close to that on my 38 short colts and don't see the continued shortening of the cases?

But then I do tend to put a pretty good bell on the case, no finessing of the bell for me.  On the 1050 I'm using the MBF powder drop tube and it works good on either 9 or 38.

[pskys2]

11 hours ago, MWP said:

In order: Lee decap. Lee 38 super sizing. Lee 9mm sizing. Hornady flare. Powder. Powder check. Mr Bulletfeeder bullet drop. Lee 9mm seating. Lee factory crimp. 
 

That’s for .355, .356, .357 and .358 plated and .358 coated. 

Curious why the 38 super sizing die and then the 9mm?  Are you using a Mark 7 with extra stations?  I only have the 6 usable on the 1050 (don't count the primer seating station).

I use the 9mm swaging die on my 1050 even if I'm not using range brass just for the occasional, and yes it did happen 1x with fiocchi SPP's, primer not kicked out of the case.  

 

On a 550 where I can feel the primer seating it's not as critical issue.  Though now I tend to use the 1050 as a case prep for 9mm, 40 s&w & 45 acp's with "any" brass I've not run before, i.e. range brass picked up or brass bought in bulk.  I've found running through twice helps find the spp cases in 45 and is more consistent in removing the crimped primer pockets.  

 

I've also not seen much difference in manufacturer dies, other than price!  Except as a general rule I don't like the spring loaded de-cappers.  Dillon's do have a bit more flare for ease of case insertion.  And I don't like the Lee O-ring lock nuts.  Also don't care for the FCD from Lee.

[tomjerry1]

Well, I use a 550, so limited to 4 stations. But the powder drop from Uniquetek looks promising.

[MikeyScuba]

Lee 9mm U die

UniqueTek .358 for 9mm funnel (in a Lee universal expander die)

Lee Seating die with custom made insert for ibeji 165gr .358 round

Lee 9mm FCD

 

I’ve got my setup tuned that a non blazer case will set the digital clutch off (it’s at 2). Military brass or s&b require a 4 to run it through.  It’s one way to catch the ones that sneak through the hand sorting. 

[MWP]

12 hours ago, pskys2 said:

Curious why the 38 super sizing die and then the 9mm?  Are you using a Mark 7 with extra stations?  I only have the 6 usable on the 1050 (don't count the primer seating station).

I use the 9mm swaging die on my 1050 even if I'm not using range brass just for the occasional, and yes it did happen 1x with fiocchi SPP's, primer not kicked out of the case.  

 

On a 550 where I can feel the primer seating it's not as critical issue.  Though now I tend to use the 1050 as a case prep for 9mm, 40 s&w & 45 acp's with "any" brass I've not run before, i.e. range brass picked up or brass bought in bulk.  I've found running through twice helps find the spp cases in 45 and is more consistent in removing the crimped primer pockets.  

 

I've also not seen much difference in manufacturer dies, other than price!  Except as a general rule I don't like the spring loaded de-cappers.  Dillon's do have a bit more flare for ease of case insertion.  And I don't like the Lee O-ring lock nuts.  Also don't care for the FCD from Lee.

38 super die solved all my brass sticking problems. Federal brass isn’t the thickest at the case mouth so you need the 9mm die to get some neck tension back. Win brass will do fine with just the super die. 
 

Yes mark 7. I use the flare die in the same spot I prime, and did the same when I was on a 1050. Only thing different now is I have decapping and sizing separated, and I would set and seat at the same time on a 1050 with gsi tool head. 
 

 

[SSGGlock]

On 6/17/2021 at 10:53 PM, MWP said:

In order: Lee decap. Lee 38 super sizing. Lee 9mm sizing. Hornady flare. Powder. Powder check. Mr Bulletfeeder bullet drop. Lee 9mm seating. Lee factory crimp. 
 

That’s for .355, .356, .357 and .358 plated and .358 coated. 

How could you break that setup down for use on a 650? With fed brass and Bulletfeeder.

[tomjerry1]

I do appreciate the help, now I'm just waiting for the bullets to arrive. I got some 147gr .358 Blue Bullets, any others that you all know about? 

[MWP]

17 hours ago, SSGGlock said:

How could you break that setup down for use on a 650? With fed brass and Bulletfeeder.

Easy answer? 1050.

 

Hard answer-
 

I loaded on a Hornady AP for years and still do for everything but 9mm. My process for 9 was- decap and size at the same time with super die in a single stage. Then handprime. Then the 5 station press would go 9mm sizing, Hornady flare, powder, seat, crimp. 
 

That process makes a very easy justification for a larger press. But I did make it 4 seasons like that. 

[SSGGlock]

15 hours ago, MWP said:

Easy answer? 1050.

 

Hard answer-
 

I loaded on a Hornady AP for years and still do for everything but 9mm. My process for 9 was- decap and size at the same time with super die in a single stage. Then handprime. Then the 5 station press would go 9mm sizing, Hornady flare, powder, seat, crimp. 
 

That process makes a very easy justification for a larger press. But I did make it 4 seasons like that. 

Yeah, I figured that’s the case. If buying a 1050, would just be better to buy a MK7.

[pskys2]

2 hours ago, SSGGlock said:

Yeah, I figured that’s the case. If buying a 1050, would just be better to buy a MK7.

I pondered that in Feb 2020, 1050 or Mk7?  Ended up finding a steal on a Super 1050 locally no less.  I'm very happy with it.

Might well come down to change out times if I was doing it again.  I have 5 calibers I would like to use with a 1050/mk7.

With the 1050 I have 2 tool heads I can use for 45 acp/400 corbon, 9mm/38 short colt which are the 4 I use most at this point.  The 400 CB needs a primer change out, unless I use formed 45 acp brass, which is what I'm doing now that I have more F150's than F100's.  Have everything I need for the 40 S&W and I can just swap inserts in the one of the existing tool heads, until some day I pick up another tool head, at over $300 it may be a while.  I use the change over time to do a good cleaning & lubing event, so it takes about 45 minutes.

If I was looking now, I'd take that into consideration.

Now if one was only looking to load 1 caliber like a 9mm, then that issue would be moot and then it comes down to price as the Mark 7 is over 20% higher for several extra stations it would be convenient but not critical.

Don't think you can go wrong with either.

[MWP]

12 hours ago, SSGGlock said:

Yeah, I figured that’s the case. If buying a 1050, would just be better to buy a MK7.

I’m not sure what the cost difference is. If you plan to never auto drive it, go 1050.
 

I’d love to say mk7’s customer service is a joke, but it would have to exist to be a joke. In my experience, a mk7 owner is 100% on their own after they get their money. 
 

I load 1k on the 1050 in 45 minutes with primers prepped. I’m not much quicker on the mk7 honestly, maybe 5-10 minutes on a good day. It has more stoppages than the 1050. I don’t have to pull the handle though. And unless you buy a pretty good pile of sensors, the mk7 isn’t even close to turn on and walk away- I’m a new glock top end and 2 929 cylinders into my mk7 as well....

Edited June 21, 2021 by MWP

[MikeyScuba]

I had a pretty good run of revo rounds the other week.  Made like 10k and even my primer orientation sensor was working.

I do have to say their customer service isn’t too bad.  It’s not for the faint of heart however.  Someone the other day asked me how I liked it.  My reply was it depends when you ask.  When it runs it’s a thing of beauty, otherwise it’s a source of major frustration.

[MWP]

2 hours ago, MikeyScuba said:

I had a pretty good run of revo rounds the other week.  Made like 10k and even my primer orientation sensor was working.

I do have to say their customer service isn’t too bad.  It’s not for the faint of heart however.  Someone the other day asked me how I liked it.  My reply was it depends when you ask.  When it runs it’s a thing of beauty, otherwise it’s a source of major frustration.

Well that’s good to hear. I was told to get on the forums and ask other owners to help me out. 
 

Hey when it runs, it runs like a champ. I honestly couldn’t imagine going backwards to a 1050 at this point, but it sure is a headache when it doesn’t want to cooperate. I still think the choice to step up to a mk7 from a 1050 is the volume a person is loading/shooting and how that time vs money works out for each person. 

[MikeyScuba]

The Mark 7 FB owners group is pretty good.  A lot of my recent issues are bolts coming loose.  The recent %$%^^%%^ was from the 5 primer assembly bolts coming loose. John sent me instructions on how to realign the primer assembly, when I went to loosen the bolts turns out they were not tight.  It is one hell of a learning curve.  Forgot the #1 rule that all sh*t loosens up, make sure everything is tight before each session.  I had that too on my 650.  Brand new to reloading and after a few thousand I'm chugging along.  Then stuff loosen up!

 

I skipped the 1050, went straight from a 650.  I did have the 650 working ok but I was never 100% happy with it.  Thing is I 100% believe the UniqueTek funnel is what currently makes my setup work flawlessly.  But I ordered that for the new press and never had in on the 650 (which I should have).  I did try the Lyman M dies on the 650 but that didn't work (I ran pre-sized, processed brass).  I even switched expander plugs between the 9mm and 357/8.  And when an expander plug gets stuck in a case.. not a fun time.  Use loctite!

[pskys2]

The biggest issue with the Super 1050 is the primer system can be finicky, especially if you forget to tighten the bar stop!  But customer service from Dillon is always top notch.

 

The advantage of the Mk7 seems to be the extra stations, which really come into play if you automate.

Realistically how many people can really afford, or require, the number of rounds per year that justifies automation?  

I have 10 primer sticks pre-loaded and with 1 in the machine and it averages out to 5 minutes per 100 rounds even with the occasional stop to catch a backwards bullet or case.  It takes 20 minutes to load the primer tubes though!

1100 rounds keeps me happy for several big matches or several weeks of practice.  If component prices return to sanity, and availability, that is.  Right now being a miser is necessary!

I've been very happy with the Super 1050 and don't regret the choice.

[ysrracer]

On 6/19/2021 at 1:16 PM, tomjerry1 said:

I do appreciate the help, now I'm just waiting for the bullets to arrive. I got some 147gr .358 Blue Bullets, any others that you all know about? 

 

I'm using those bullets, and I like them. Here's my set-up. Federal brass, Federal Small Pistol Primers, Tk moon clips, 3gr clays

 

Name: 9mm: 148gr Blue RN: Clays 3.05gr: Fed Case: OAL 1.19: S&W 929
Notes: S&W 929

Shots: 4
Average: 882 ft/s
SD: 10 ft/s
Min: 871 ft/s
Max: 897 ft/s
Spread: 26 ft/s

Power Factor Average: 130
Power Factor Low: 128
Power Factor High: 132

Barometric Pressure: 29 in Hg
Temperature: 67 F

Weight: 148.0 gr.
Powder/Wt: Clays/3.05gr
Bullet/Wt: Blue 148gr RN
Primer: Fed SPP
Case: Fed
OAL: 1.19
Gun: S&W 929 / 5" barrel

 

(yes my 929 is cut down to 5")

Edited June 21, 2021 by ysrracer

[ysrracer]

And I'm using a Lee U die, and Lee dies all the way around.

[pskys2]

On 6/19/2021 at 3:16 PM, tomjerry1 said:

I do appreciate the help, now I'm just waiting for the bullets to arrive. I got some 147gr .358 Blue Bullets, any others that you all know about? 

Bang & Clang & BBI have filled my orders within a few days.  They have product in stock and BBI is a quality product.  Bang & Clang (Revolver Supply) I've never used, BUT David Ohlasso is sponsored by them, so I expect they will be good too.