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PCC Case head separation


bveto

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During a match yesterday I had a case head separation after my second shot, didn’t realize what had happened tried to chamber 2-3 rounds after the separation, the sleeve seems to have peened itself into the chamber. I’ve tried to get the sleeve out of the barrel using dental picks, pulling a bore snake from the muzzle end and using a over sized copper bore brush. Nothing has worked so far any recommendations on how to remove the sleeve would be greatly appreciated. 
 

Sorry forgot to mention I froze the barrel overnight and tried using the picks and the bore snake when the barrel was removed from the freezer and that didn’t work either.

 

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Edited by bveto
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2 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:

Freeze the barrel.

  Wrong direction.  Freezing the barrel shrinks it.  Have your removal tools handy, heat the chamber end of the barrel with a heat gun, propane torch, etc... until it's too hot to touch. Then give just the inside of the broken case a shot of Carb Cleaner, Freeze Spray or a shot of Duster-Off from an upside down can.  Then immediately use your tools to remove the broken case.  The shot of cold gas will shrink the broken case while the barrel because of it's greater mass will remain expanded from the heat.

 

As suggested in other threads, tools for removal, empty 5.56 case, .45 cal bronze brush, multiple cleaning patches on a 9mm jag from the chamber end.

 

Nolan

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33 minutes ago, Chappytactical said:

I've used a copper dowel from a hardware store to get them out. I notice that PCC's do not like Aguila Brass with the little rim on the case. Those are the ones I notice causing these issues.

Usually stepped cases

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21 minutes ago, Nolan said:

  Wrong direction.  Freezing the barrel shrinks it.  Have your removal tools handy, heat the chamber end of the barrel with a heat gun, propane torch, etc... until it's too hot to touch. Then give just the inside of the broken case a shot of Carb Cleaner, Freeze Spray or a shot of Duster-Off from an upside down can.  Then immediately use your tools to remove the broken case.  The shot of cold gas will shrink the broken case while the barrel because of it's greater mass will remain expanded from the heat.

 

As suggested in other threads, tools for removal, empty 5.56 case, .45 cal bronze brush, multiple cleaning patches on a 9mm jag from the chamber end.

 

Nolan

Yes, freezing it shrinks the barrel....what is inside the barrel? The brass. If the barrel shrinks, the brass will shrink. When it's warmed back up the barrel will expand back to its previous size, where as the brass won't...it's why we reload brass cases and not steel cases. Heating the barrel will remove whatever temper or treatment the steel has had done to it. 

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18 minutes ago, GrumpyOne said:

Yes, freezing it shrinks the barrel....what is inside the barrel? The brass. If the barrel shrinks, the brass will shrink. When it's warmed back up the barrel will expand back to its previous size, where as the brass won't...it's why we reload brass cases and not steel cases. Heating the barrel will remove whatever temper or treatment the steel has had done to it. 

My badd, I should have stated "Too hot to touch comfortably" which is about 140 degrees F.  Heating the barrel until it is too hot to touch with a heat gun or propane torch isn't going to affect the heat treat of a steel barrel.

 

Common advice on this forum for removing muzzle brakes is too heat the brake/barrel until the thread locker just begins to smoke or about 400 degrees.

 

I have removed broken cases from PCC's by heating the barrel and then hitting the broken cases with Freeze Spray and pulling them out with a .45 bronze brush.

 

Nolan

Edited by Nolan
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2 minutes ago, Nolan said:

My badd, I should have stated "Too hot to touch comfortably" which is about 140 degrees F.  Heating the barrel until it is too hot to touch with a heat gun or propane torch isn't going to affect the heat treat of a steel barrel.

 

Common advice on this forum for removing muzzle brakes is too heat the brake/barrel until the thread locker just begins to smoke or about 400 degrees.

 

Nolan

Removing a muzzle brake is not removing a stuck piece of brass. Typically, a muzzle brake is installed with a loctite, and the loctite has to be broken down with heat...they aren't using the heat to expand the metal, that's just a by product of breaking the loctite. 

 

Do a search on here about stuck brass.

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Well I got it out, ended up getting a 3/8-24 tap and screwing it in and using a wooden dowel from the muzzle end to knock it out. The tap maybe screwed in one thread but it was enough to grab the brass and get it out. Thanks for all the advise.

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9 hours ago, bveto said:

Well I got it out, ended up getting a 3/8-24 tap and screwing it in and using a wooden dowel from the muzzle end to knock it out. The tap maybe screwed in one thread but it was enough to grab the brass and get it out. Thanks for all the advise.

 

I'm glad you got it out.

 

10 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:

Removing a muzzle brake is not removing a stuck piece of brass. Typically, a muzzle brake is installed with a loctite, and the loctite has to be broken down with heat...they aren't using the heat to expand the metal, that's just a by product of breaking the loctite. 

 

Do a search on here about stuck brass.

 

I was referring to your comment about affecting the temper of the barrel by using a propane torch and referring to common quotes on this forum about removing a loctited muzzle brake by heating the barrel until the loctite just begins to smoke which is over 400 degrees F, ie. the common consensus of this forum is you won't damage the barrel using a propane torch to heat it to less than 200 degrees.

 

You will have to work at getting the chamber end of a PCC barrel hot enough with a propane torch to affect the temper of steel.  It can be done, but it would take quite awhile and not necessary to remove a piece of stuck brass.  I've removed a piece of broken case from the chamber by heating the barrel with a large heat gun and spraying the brass with Freeze spray.  It popped right out using an old .45 cal bronze brush.

 

Nolan

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34 minutes ago, gerritm said:

I cull all Xtreme brass whether it is stepped or not. I have had several of these split like this and they were not stepped.

 

gerritm

Ran into this when reloading.... the powder check die (from DAA) kept beeping.  The powder was thrown on the scale and it was the correct weight.  Didn't think anything about it until it happened again and then again.  Checked the headstamp.... XTREME.  Went back and found the other loads and pulled them apart.  Now I'm doing the same culling process.  It prevents putting a primer into a piece of brass that is going to be thrown away.

 

BC

Edited by BillChunn
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