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How often do you shoot other (non-revolver) pistols?


matteekay

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4 hours ago, Makicjf said:

I'll give a huge amen to struggling with a single action trigger:   Once the beeper goes off, I revert to rolling the trigger -- with a single action or even a da/sa I'm invariably Alpha/Charlie or worse.  I have a bunch of 1911's (45, 40 double stack, 10mm and one in 9mm)  and struggle to shoot them well at speed... I always break early and over power the pistol.  I can run a Glock better than others, but not as well as a revo.   I toy with the idea of committing one year to only single action triggers, start down the path, and honestly get frustrated with the level of suck at which I function( plus I'm spoiled and HATE chasing brass).   I've been bouncing around low cap divisions for almost two years, never focusing enough to improve; but just enough to stagnate and diminish my revo skills.   Perhaps its time to commit a year to single action triggers, get some help and improve.  I have enough LPP to shoot as much as I want.   

Where would be a good place to start to stop overpowering the trigger?

Jason

Leatham has a drill that should work.  I'm sure it's on his YouTube page.

If I remember it entails shooting at a steady pace for several shots, I think it was a mag full he recommended, focusing on consistency and keeping all of the shots in a tight group.

After a few strings then start running the trigger faster with each shot, but keeping the consistency and not worrying about speed so much as accuracy.

Keeping all of the shots in the same pattern, like a 4" circle.

Start at 7 yds and work your way back.

 

I'm with Mike on this I'd much rather practice with a Single Action, or Safe Action, then transition to a Revolver.  Good thing about the Revolver is the single biggest time waster is reloads, and you can practice them much more efficiently than mag changes, due to the trigger stroke.

But then MY biggest issue is the Red Dot!  CO's is my weakest platform, so I try to work on it more.

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7 hours ago, Underwood said:

I recently started shooting a 45acp revolver at local matches , due to the fact I came across enough large primers and bullets to keep me shooting for awhile. I prefer to shoot open 3 gun matches and saving all my 9mm for those. I just started shooting revolver about a month ago and i really like it. I really like the no lost brass too.

 

 

Nice shooting! Yeah, the never-ending brass supply is really a hidden highlight of revolver. Well, until they start splitting, but PF-legal loads in Starline cases will take a looooong time to do that.

 

Unfortunately for me, my revo of choice is a .40; not only do I have to run SPP, but I need specific ones (Fed, Fed Mag, Win). I have enough to make it through next season (maybe) and then revo might go into forced retirement. I'm only building/buying things in .45 now since my LPP supply seems more consistent. 

 

 

14 minutes ago, pskys2 said:

I'm with Mike on this I'd much rather practice with a Single Action, or Safe Action, then transition to a Revolver.  Good thing about the Revolver is the single biggest time waster is reloads, and you can practice them much more efficiently than mag changes, due to the trigger stroke.

But then MY biggest issue is the Red Dot!  CO's is my weakest platform, so I try to work on it more.

 

I'm in dot-land right now. It's... not going well, lol. I'll keep after it for a few months but I'm already starting to miss the spinny-guns.

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I’m lucky enough to live in a state where there’s a match every weekend, ICORE 3 matches a month, 2 steel challenge a month, USPSA pretty much every weekend and some week nights. I do like to mix it up, but I do believe that shooting is shooting no matter what platform you choose. I love revolver and have been shooting more ICORE than USPSA. I actually shot my open revo in open Class at 4 USPSA matches to get more practice in before the state and SW regionals. I know that I didn’t have any chance of placing well, but I didn’t care because I wanted the trigger time. I’d love to shoot revo in USPSA, but like most people my eyes aren’t getting any better. 

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5 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Nice shooting! Yeah, the never-ending brass supply is really a hidden highlight of revolver. Well, until they start splitting, but PF-legal loads in Starline cases will take a looooong time to do that.

 

Unfortunately for me, my revo of choice is a .40; not only do I have to run SPP, but I need specific ones (Fed, Fed Mag, Win). I have enough to make it through next season (maybe) and then revo might go into forced retirement. I'm only building/buying things in .45 now since my LPP supply seems more consistent. 

 

 

 

I'm in dot-land right now. It's... not going well, lol. I'll keep after it for a few months but I'm already starting to miss the spinny-guns.

I usually shoot with one eye, have found it helps on the first shot to use both eyes though.

I think my problem is all mental, I keep "seeing" my jerky trigger actions!  I do know when I practice with a dot, my iron sight shooting gets better!

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21 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Nice shooting! Yeah, the never-ending brass supply is really a hidden highlight of revolver. Well, until they start splitting, but PF-legal loads in Starline cases will take a looooong time to do that.

 

Unfortunately for me, my revo of choice is a .40; not only do I have to run SPP, but I need specific ones (Fed, Fed Mag, Win). I have enough to make it through next season (maybe) and then revo might go into forced retirement. I'm only building/buying things in .45 now since my LPP supply seems more consistent. 

 

 

 

I'm in dot-land right now. It's... not going well, lol. I'll keep after it for a few months but I'm already starting to miss the spinny-guns.

I'm trying something odd which may or may not help with your .40 spp problem.  I have an oddball, a 40 pcc which I love:  no recoil, accurate to 100 yards and converts a 40 170 pf load into a modest 10 mm  ( a 180 doing 975 from the pistol does 1100-1150 from the carbine), but I didn't  want to waste spp's on a 40.  I've bought a 40 case holder and am going to try and trim 10mm to 40 length.  I don't know if the 10 gets to thick to trim to 40 size or not, but I'll soon find out.  I have a mountain of 10mm brass, and nearly all of my 10 shooting is from my 610.  I don't lose brass.  If the brass will work trimmed, I can make large pistol "40" brass.

Jason

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45 minutes ago, Makicjf said:

I'm trying something odd which may or may not help with your .40 spp problem.  I have an oddball, a 40 pcc which I love:  no recoil, accurate to 100 yards and converts a 40 170 pf load into a modest 10 mm  ( a 180 doing 975 from the pistol does 1100-1150 from the carbine), but I didn't  want to waste spp's on a 40.  I've bought a 40 case holder and am going to try and trim 10mm to 40 length.  I don't know if the 10 gets to thick to trim to 40 size or not, but I'll soon find out.  I have a mountain of 10mm brass, and nearly all of my 10 shooting is from my 610.  I don't lose brass.  If the brass will work trimmed, I can make large pistol "40" brass.

Jason

 

That actually gives me a wonderful, terrible idea. I shoot Rhinos, and they use the same size cylinder no matter what caliber the gun is chambered in. So, assuming a 10mm is shorter than a .357 (pretty safe bet...), my .40 S&W models should have more than enough meat to be hogged out for a 10mm case. It's headspacing off the moonclip so it should still shoot .40 without a problem, meaning I can load a light 10mm or my standard .40 depending on whichever brass I have on hand.

 

Toolguy's gotta be around here somewhere, right? Let's make awful decisions together, lol.

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19 minutes ago, matteekay said:

 

That actually gives me a wonderful, terrible idea. I shoot Rhinos, and they use the same size cylinder no matter what caliber the gun is chambered in. So, assuming a 10mm is shorter than a .357 (pretty safe bet...), my .40 S&W models should have more than enough meat to be hogged out for a 10mm case. It's headspacing off the moonclip so it should still shoot .40 without a problem, meaning I can load a light 10mm or my standard .40 depending on whichever brass I have on hand.

 

Toolguy's gotta be around here somewhere, right? Let's make awful decisions together, lol.

That is a great idea!  and pressure for 10 and 40 is almost equal.   10mm brass in snug clips loads as easy as short colts in my 627. Sloppy, factory, one size fits all are less than perfect, but not terrible. If you found 10 brass that fits your clips you'd be golden.  Plus, reaming 6 holes is a lot easier timewise than trimming 1000 peices of brass,even with a power drill  set up!

Good Luck!

Jason

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Matt, I would think that any number of smiths around can ream your 40 cylinder to 10mm depth and that will let you use LPP in 10's and SPP in your 40's. I use the "split" moonclips in my 610s and they work with both the 10s and the 40s. I have a friend here that had a Ruger GP100 that he had a 10mm barrel put on and the cylinder bored out I think and converted it to 10mm. He did this 2-3 years ago before Ruger came out with theirs, and it works alright.

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I'll shoot the semi's every time I train. I try to finish up the day with 50 rounds through whichever revolver I bring with me that day. Shooting double-action only.

 

I find it helps me keep the trigger moving straight through with the semi's.

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