ysrracer Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Can I just loctite it in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcfoto Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Yes. My 627 has the same disease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Yes, nearly every screw on a revolver should receive a bit of blue or purple lock tite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 I've never used LocTite on any of my revolvers and they have never come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 I've never used LocTite on any of my revolvers and they have never come loose.There is a drop of blue on my strain screw, that's it.If you must Loctite the little screws, use 222 the low strength variety.--Pat JonesFirestone COUSPSA #A79592 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) I do not know of any reason to be scared of Loctite. Maybe you folks can educate me though. Haven't done it on the 929 yet but on another gun I've used the technique shown except held a screwdriver tip to what I wanted to heat with some needle nose pliers and put the torch on the screwdriver tip. Have also been told that melting beeswax on the screw in question can work but do not have any experience with this. I've owned 2 older Harleys and an air cooled BMW twin, the first time something comes loose it gets the juice. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/insights/all-insights/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker.html Edit: And yea, on my 929 I've put blue on the same screw for the same reason. Edited August 24, 2020 by IHAVEGAS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplesinglestack Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Used blue in most of my screws and have no problems when it's time to take it apart. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 The purple 222 and the blue 242 don't require any heat to remove the screws. Just a regular screwdriver works fine. I don't understand why some people are so paranoid about using the correct grade of Loctite. Just because one person doesn't need it dosen't mean someone else wouldn't benefit from it. Ultimately, everyone has to make their own decisions. Personally, I use Loctite a lot with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Toolguy said: The purple 222 and the blue 242 don't require any heat to remove the screws. Just a regular screwdriver works fine. I don't understand why some people are so paranoid about using the correct grade of Loctite. Just because one person doesn't need it dosen't mean someone else wouldn't benefit from it. Ultimately, everyone has to make their own decisions. Personally, I use Loctite a lot with no problems. Yup. This. You dont have a problem with it loosening.....until you do. I prefer to take the proper precautions to give myself the best chance of success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, PatJones said: There is a drop of blue on my strain screw, that's it. If you must Loctite the little screws, use 222 the low strength variety. -- Pat Jones Firestone CO USPSA #A79592 The people using LocTite on the strain screw have used it to lessen the pressure on the mainspring rather than shortening the screw. A better method than LocTite would be to perform this job. Edited August 24, 2020 by RePete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 54 minutes ago, RePete said: The people using LocTite on the strain screw have used it to lessen the pressure on the mainspring rather than shortening the screw. A better method than LocTite would be to perform this job. And then use Loctite on the new screw I suppose. Don't most folks just bend the spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) Most folks don't KNOW that you can just bend the spring. That's what Wolff does. Their #2 spring is just a #1 with a bend in it. You can bend either one of them to make it the other one. Edited August 24, 2020 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 19 minutes ago, Toolguy said: Most folks don't KNOW that you can just bend the spring. That's what Wolff does. Their #2 spring is just a #1 with a bend in it. You can bend either one of them to make it the other one. The ones that do may also find that it is easier to adjust a strain screw then to bend a spring, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 51 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said: The ones that do may also find that it is easier to adjust a strain screw then to bend a spring, On the subject, tracing an outline of the spring before you bend it is handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drillbit Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 I'd like to here more about this "spring bending." What is the process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 I made a jig to bend the springs. A 3"x3"x1" block of aluminium, drilled 2 holes about 3/4" apart and drove in 2 roll pins. Hook the spring in 1 and use the other to perform the bend gently and slow for the desired effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ysrracer Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 11 minutes ago, RePete said: I made a jig to bend the springs. A 3"x3"x1" block of aluminium, drilled 2 holes about 3/4" apart and drove in 2 roll pins. Hook the spring in 1 and use the other to perform the bend gently and slow for the desired effect. Can you post a picture? Please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 31 minutes ago, ysrracer said: Can you post a picture? Please? I can't because I can't find the jig. I haven't used it in 10 years and it may be gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcfoto Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 I’ve heard the best method is to put the spring in a vise, and bang with closest heavy hand tool. Rinse and repeat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 The way my revolver smith showed me was. 1. Trace the outline of the spring so you know how much you bend it. 2. Use whatever is handy to stick the spring in (he used an old metal filing cabinet drawer if memory serves) and bend it. This is not brain surgery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 I just hold the bottom end in hand, put the top (hook) end on the bench and thumb in the middle. That gives it a big radius. You don't want tight bends in a mainspring. You can make it more bent or straighter that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 On 8/28/2020 at 1:39 PM, Toolguy said: I just hold the bottom end in hand, put the top (hook) end on the bench and thumb in the middle. That gives it a big radius. You don't want tight bends in a mainspring. You can make it more bent or straighter that way. Exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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