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New to reloading assistance needed~


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Need to star reloading for major power factor, usually the ammo I purchase comes from Everglades, however.  It's pricey so I want to venture of to start loading the ammo myself.  What's the best place to purchase a Dillon 750?  Also, besides the press what other components are needed to get me on the right track? 




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7 hours ago, chgofirefighter said:

  besides the press what other components are needed to get me on the right track? 


1.  Any 9mm brass is fine - why spend extra $$$ for "once fired" when you cannot be sure it's only once fired anyway.   I use brass until it cracks

2.  Powder - HS6 is good middle of the road powder, with 124 gr bullets.   Yes, 3n38 may be better with a 115 gr bullet, but that case is really full and not fun to reload

3.  PD 124 gr JHP's (they have no lead exposed which can clog up your comp)

4.  Start slowly - go for a nice PF150-155 to start.  Get some experience, and then Slowly, work up to PF 165+, with a chrono.   (Do not try this w/o a chrono).

     One thing to look for is the bullet being "set back" into the case - check a few by pushing the bullet hard against your workbench and then remeasure the OAL.

     This is a huge problem with .40 Major, but not usually a serious problem for 9mm Major since there is so much powder in the case (c. 8 gr HS6).

Have fun with your new hobby.   :) 

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Outside of the press and all the accessories for it(roller handle,case feeder,mount, bullet tray)
I would get
Sturdy bench
Scale (electronic)
Reloading lube ( I prefer lanolin like Dillon)
Inertia puller
Lighting (on press and off)
Tumbler(wet or dry) both work
Media for tumbler
Media Seperator
12 bins I like the hefty 6 qt from Lowe's
Label maker(or a sharpie)
Chrono for testing

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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Pretty much covers it. On the bench make sure it's rock solid. Overkill is just right in this department. You may also want to make sure you have plenty of room around your mounting location to allow for an upgrade like a bigger press or automation later. A little foresight beats starting over from scratch. 


Search around the forum for threads with 650 mods / improvements. Numerous little tricks and gadgets available to smooth out the 650 - spent primer upgrade, low mass detent ball & springs, ski jump fix, etc. All these add up and really do help. 


Go ahead in advance and make a good storage area for loading supplies. When you get started loading you will accumulate a lot of stuff quickly. And just like guns, keep detailed notes. Settings, rounds loaded, etc. 


Finally eyes & fire extinguisher. Hope you never need them but like a carry gun right? 

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When I was brand new to reloading all I did was spend time in the 9mm  reloading section. TONS of great info and a lot of load data. I run a Dillon 650 with a case feed and mini bullet feed (didn’t want to shell out the dough for the mr. bullet feeder).  I ended up settling for hs6 and 124gr coated bullets. 8.0 gr of hs6 at 1.170 OAL with the 124gr bullet and my AKAI with 3 top popple holes and 4 holes in a V pattern. I started though around 7.4gr and worked up in .2gr increments and loaded about 20 in each and chronod each round

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8 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

This is a huge problem with .40 Major


No it isn't.  I shot 40 major for years and never had a setback problem.  The Lee Carbide crimp die does an outstanding job of crimping the bullet.  So much so that when you need to pull one it's a PITA.  Just ask the guys at the chrono station.

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chgo, here is the scoop.  The fastest powder you want to use is CFE or Autocomp.  That is about the speed powder that Everglades uses for their major load.  Next down the speed chart is HS-6.  It's really dirty.  You can use N350, 3N37 or 3N38, but you will have capacity problems.  Plus, powder will spill out of the case when it rotates to the next station.  They are also expensive, so I'd simply forget them.  Last comes AA& and Major Pistol powder.  They are as slow as Blue Dot or Longshot, but meter and shoot better.  Major Pistol is dense and doesn't fill the case up.  Plus it is compressible.  My major load is CCI 500, 10.2gr Major Pistol under a 115gr Hap/PD/Everglades @ 1.161" OAL for 168PF.  It is not even a compressed load.


Bullets:  most Open shooters shoot 124s because they don't want to put up with powder spilling on the press.  If you stay with AA& or MP, that is greatly reduced.   I shoot 115s because I have two poppels and an efficient comp.  So I want enough gas to work them.  There is not enough powder under a 124 to work my gun properly.  Heavy plated or JHPs will not lead up your comp.  FMJs and poly coated will.


Pressure:  with the faster powders (CFE, WAC) you are way over SAAMI specs.  If you are loading long and don't get any setback, it is safe.  Using slower powders and loading long gets you back under, or only a little over SAAMI spec.  That, plus I need a lot of gas is why I use the slower powders.

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2 hours ago, zzt said:


I shot 40 major for years and never had a setback problem.  The Lee Carbide crimp die does an outstanding job


The problem is people not using the Lee die, and fast powders, heavy bullets  ...


If that bullet sets back, that's a BIG problem.


Glad you solved your problem with the .40, and a lot of people also have, but those who are unaware

can get a nasty surprise.

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  • 1 month later...

I know a lot of people here get their reloading info from BE but I still think a manual is a good idea. Learn the basic concepts. They are intuitive to some but not all. Sometimes stuff on the internet is wrong or flat out dangerous. IIRC, some time ago on BE there was a discussion of mixing powders. For a newbie to think that is OK is a recipe for disaster. The manuals also encourage record keeping, an absolute necessity when working up loads and/or if you reload multiple loads.

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