Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Grip, how to?


Prov1x

Recommended Posts

1st off, I am not a new shooter, 3 M class division shooter Lim/SS/Prod but just getting into open. I've shot 2 matches and have practiced zero times with it other than sighting it in.

 

When gripping an open gun how hard are you supposed to grip? I have heard it both ways, light and loose (say 50% of normal grip for limited/production) or grip as hard as you normally would? 

 

I have also heard that the dot shouldn't move out of the sight (cmore) but mine seems to move out, maybe not a lot but it definitely moves around. 

 

What's the correct technique for Open? 

 

Thanks! 

Edited by Prov1x
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, glockman75 said:


Enjoy the dot! It gives you so much more information than iron sights.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is true, just in the two matches that I've shot, I noticed several things that I haven't noticed shooting iron sights. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not saying squeeze the piss out of it but better recoil management you have the better your scores will be. take it for what it is. if you feel you get better recoil management with a death grip then go for it. some guns, the comp and specific load does more work than your grip needs to...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m 6 months into shooting open and have done a little experimenting... both in practice with bill drills and such and in matches.

 

Just gripping it without thinking about it, I can run the gun fast as hell but lots of Charlie’s and deltas...

Grabbing hard with both hands and my trigger finger slows down...

Concentrating on gripping my left hand hard is enough to get the dot to settle... now I’m shooting too many alphas compared to guys beating me and I need to find a happy medium while looking for more speed. Haha.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, igolfat8 said:

Search Robert Vogel Grip on YouTube then duplicate it while gripping as had as possible. Then buy a set of COC grippers and get stronger.

You must not have read my post.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crush it.  The dot is going to dance on the target.  No dot is dead still.  With a strong grip and your load dialed in the dot should not leave the glass and ideally stay on the paper.  The load plays a key role it what your dot does during recoil.  Not enough gas and the dot can leave the lens and paper.  Our open guns like to run in the 170-172PF range.  Much lower and the dot gets to moving too much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, SilverBolt said:

Crush it.  The dot is going to dance on the target.  No dot is dead still.  With a strong grip and your load dialed in the dot should not leave the glass and ideally stay on the paper.  The load plays a key role it what your dot does during recoil.  Not enough gas and the dot can leave the lens and paper.  Our open guns like to run in the 170-172PF range.  Much lower and the dot gets to moving too much.

Ah okay, what you desribed is what I am seeing with the dot.

 

I have just been shooting Atlanta Arms 125gr major pf loaded ammo so it may not be hot enough?

 

I'll have to get some loading data from a friend, who shoots a 38s gun of the same design. I am shooting 38sc but haven't gotten my 38sc reloading stuff ordered yet. 

 

 

Edited by Prov1x
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Prov1x said:

Ah okay, what you desribed is what I am seeing with the dot.

 

I have just been shooting Atlanta Arms 125gr major pf loaded ammo so it may not be hot enough?

 

I'll have to get some loading data from a friend, who shoots a 38s gun of the same design. I am shooting 38sc but haven't gotten my 38sc reloading stuff ordered yet. 

 

 

I am sure your load is hot enough to make major PF.  What it may be lacking is enough gas for the comp to do its job.  It is amazing how various powders feel and react (dot) at the same PF.  One powder may perform great at 167-168PF where another may need 170-172 to achieve a similar result.  When working up a new open major load I will get the basic data from known sources that I trust.  I will use that info as my baseline starting point.  I will then make loads in .1 grain increments both above and below that baseline.  When increasing always read your brass for over pressurization.   I will load 20-25 rounds at each charge level and hit the range with the chrono.  I will set up a standard USPSA target behind the chrono.  That way I can watch the dot reaction and chrono at the same time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/27/2018 at 5:52 PM, SilverBolt said:

Crush it.  The dot is going to dance on the target.  No dot is dead still.  With a strong grip and your load dialed in the dot should not leave the glass and ideally stay on the paper.  The load plays a key role it what your dot does during recoil.  Not enough gas and the dot can leave the lens and paper.  Our open guns like to run in the 170-172PF range.  Much lower and the dot gets to moving too much.

Can you all describe what the "path" of the Dot looks like to you?

I put up another post earlier asking that question and didn't really get the kinds of answers I was expecting.

I have a new Akai V8 in 38 SC and I am working on a load before the season starts.  I can't decide what the "best" load is because it seems like the dot is moving around on the right side of the glass and not in the center.  I was using a Slide ride on a Cheely offset mount and now i am switching to my DPP which is centered on the mount.  

I am wondering if it is the mount, the load, or my grip.  So keep the info coming because I am interested as well.

Sorry if this is highjacking your thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Each of my guns has been different.

The latest two 9 majors both want 173-175 to stabilize the dot with my normal grip.

I grip all of them as similar as possible.

Limited, open, SS etc etc, even put perryman grips on my SS guns to keep them as close to a 2011 as I could

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Sporky said:

Can you all describe what the "path" of the Dot looks like to you?

I put up another post earlier asking that question and didn't really get the kinds of answers I was expecting.

I have a new Akai V8 in 38 SC and I am working on a load before the season starts.  I can't decide what the "best" load is because it seems like the dot is moving around on the right side of the glass and not in the center.  I was using a Slide ride on a Cheely offset mount and now i am switching to my DPP which is centered on the mount.  

I am wondering if it is the mount, the load, or my grip.  So keep the info coming because I am interested as well.

Sorry if this is highjacking your thread

Are you running a thumb rest?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Sporky said:

Can you all describe what the "path" of the Dot looks like to you?

I put up another post earlier asking that question and didn't really get the kinds of answers I was expecting.

I have a new Akai V8 in 38 SC and I am working on a load before the season starts.  I can't decide what the "best" load is because it seems like the dot is moving around on the right side of the glass and not in the center.  I was using a Slide ride on a Cheely offset mount and now i am switching to my DPP which is centered on the mount.  

I am wondering if it is the mount, the load, or my grip.  So keep the info coming because I am interested as well.

Sorry if this is highjacking your thread

 

who cares. as long as the dot goes back to zero ie the spot it started from it doesnt matter where it moves in the mean time. if you feel like its just not right try it without the thumb rest. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

N105 Vihtaviyru was the powder recommended by Bob at Brazo when I bought my gun.  The amount of powder varies a bit with the lot number but mostly around 10 grains.  It's a compressed load coupled with rifle primers but generates enough gas that the dot stays in the glass.  I have also used IMR SR4756 with equally good results even though the IMR is slightly faster burn rate I had to move the power factor up to 180. 

The problem is with that much powder I had to develop a special loading technique to prevent powder from splashing out when the press indexed.  I moved the bullet seated dye next to the powder so It only had to index one time.  I placed my finger on the case as it moved over to cushion the click.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...