Pimping a Model 10 for IDPA

[jrswanson1]

I have a Model 10-11 I just picked up.  Heavy 4" barrel, round butt, laminated wood grips.  I got it dirt cheap (under $300) since it was a security company trade in.  I have a Safariland holster and a two-speedloader pouch, so that's taken care of.    If I wanted to use it in IDPA, what mods would you recommend? 

[Jim Watson]

Basic:  Paint the front sight, maybe even the rear, so you can see to aim.

Easy:  Softest springs that will pop a cap and return the trigger.

Serious:  Real action job with all working parts honed and angles set for the lightest, smoothest DA possible.  Chamfered charge holes for easy speed load.

Over the top:  Better sights.  But that is getting into the "trade for Model 15" country.

Gear:  Another speedloader carrier unless you want to put the allowable third reload in your vest pocket... which I do because it can be faster to dip into an open pocket if you are standing up.  Multiple speedloaders (Comp III or Jetloader) and speedloader refill tray.  Chamber brush, either one of those six at one blow things or a .40 bore brush on a short handle so you can dry brush the chambers between stages.  Toothbrush to clean out from under the extractor; fouling under the star is a major source of mystery cylinder rotation drag.

Edited October 18, 2016 by Jim Watson

[Toolguy]

Good post Jim! You save me a lot of writing.

[jrswanson1]

I got the paint on the front sight covered. 

Can you recommend a specific set of springs? 

I'll take this under advisement, probably after I get a few matches with revolver under my belt.

I can swap the Model 10 for my Colt Trooper if I wanted that

I'll get the recommended speedloaders, I'm guessing HKS isn't at the top of the list?    The brushes I can get.

 

Thanks!

[Canvsbk]

Can't upload a pic as files are too large -

Hogue grips

bead blast blue job

dove tail in fiber optic front sight

chamfer and polish charge holes

recut forcing cone to 18*

action job

This is the most accurate hand gun I've ever owned. Shoot it for IDPA all the time.

[Jim Watson]

Sorry, I don't know of an aftermarket mainspring to recommend.  I am not crazy about the Wolff Power Rib, although I have a couple.  I don't know of anybody else selling a reduced mainspring except the Miculek and I don't have one of those to comment on.

My only use for an HKS speedloader is LAMR. 

 

[jrswanson1]

27 minutes ago, Jim Watson said:

My only use for an HKS speedloader is LAMR. 

 

Does that count as one of the three speedloaders?  Also, I'm seeing Wolff and Wilson Combat springs on Midway's site.

Edited October 18, 2016 by jrswanson1

[Jim Watson]

Not for me.

A long IDPA stage can be 18 scored hits, right?  That's LAMR + two reloads.  And what if you need a makeup shot?  Three speedy speedloaders on your person for speedy reloads. 

I didn't know Wilson was selling revolver springs.  Now I see their mainspring is flat, I would give it a try.

 

Edited October 18, 2016 by Jim Watson

[toothguy]

Miculek mainspring and a 11 lb. rebound spring with 1-2 coils cut off.

[Canvsbk]

Buy miculek's action job video first. Forget changing the hammer spring just shorten the strain screw to your liking. Doubtful you can get a quick enough reset with a rebound spring less than 13#'s. Miculek's are 20#'s in his guns - not for a normal human tho.

[MWP]

9 hours ago, Canvsbk said:

Buy miculek's action job video first. Forget changing the hammer spring just shorten the strain screw to your liking. Doubtful you can get a quick enough reset with a rebound spring less than 13#'s. Miculek's are 20#'s in his guns - not for a normal human tho.

Do everything up to the first period, then don't do those other things. 

[PatJones]

If you only shorten the strain screw, it takes the arch out of the mainspring. With less arch in the spring, it gets longer. This can cause knuckling.

The rebound spring has to be balanced to the tension of the mainspring. If not, the rebound housing will struggle to lift the hammer off of the firing pin. This can cause slow or no reset.

I run an 11 pound rebound spring with several coils cut off. It is balanced to my mainspring and I get good reset. To get my mainspring tension lower I had to bend the spring to prevent knuckling.

I don't think Jerry is running the heavy rebound spring anymore is he?

Edited October 20, 2016 by PatJones
Spelling

[Alaskan454]

Jerry referenced a 5-6 lb  trigger pull in an interview I saw recently, I doubt that's going to happen with the heavier rebound spring.

[GmanCdp]

you are allowed a total of 3 speedloaders  plus 6 in the gun for a total of 24 rounds. Depending on how you reload normally you have 2 on the support side and one in front or behind the gun as a last resort option or 2 in front of the holster and one one the support side behind the center line..

Here is a link with pictures and IDPA suggestions..

http://idpaforum.yuku.com/topic/10243/Your-SSR-Set-Up#.WAzY5us8KrU

[FWSixgunner]

Don't spend a bunch of money pimping till you try IDPA revolver and know you like it. Especially don't make any permanent mods to the gun.

To get started, a good set of grips that fill the gap between trigger guard and grip, and paint the FS.

I like three SLs on the belt and one for make ready.

If you decide to stick with the revolver after a couple matches, then start making some of the more serious mods.

[jh9]

On 10/18/2016 at 9:59 AM, Jim Watson said:

Sorry, I don't know of an aftermarket mainspring to recommend.  I am not crazy about the Wolff Power Rib, although I have a couple.  I don't know of anybody else selling a reduced mainspring except the Miculek and I don't have one of those to comment on.

 

The "Pro" series guns are shipping with the older Wolff type 2 "competition" mainspring and the longer (square butt, I think?) strain screw.  In my 627 pro this would pop anything but CCI 550s.  From memory the regular CCI 500s were fine.  For a 10-11 adding the Apex 'tactical' firing pin + spring should be plenty reliable with .38s.  I wouldn't trust it with magnum primers though.

 

I have a Wilson mainspring somewhere.  Like the Miculek, it's a bent OEM spring.  The only way to know if it'll work with whatever primers you're using is to give it a go.