Deactivating Glock Slidestop?

[Wim]

I've carried a Glock 23C for about 8 yrs or something now. But I shoot my Para Ord more and generally take a very high thumb grip, so I risk locking my Glock slide back under reecoil with my stronghand thumb (although it hasn't happened since my first Glock shooting session). I know - you guys will probably tell me I should just shoot Glock , but over here in South Africa we are just trying to keep the guns that we have right now, before buying (and trying to license) new ones...

What is the best wat to deactivate the slide stop - any ideas? I figured I could just remove it and cut off the part that protrudes from the trigger area. Otherwise I could just remove it, but I figure I'll need a similar thickness spacer alongside the trigger to stop it from wobbling horribly side to side.

Has anyone done this, or have any ideas? It's not really about locking back on empty mags, that looks like an easier mod, it's about my thumb under recoil. I prefer slides that don't lock back anyway.

Thanks for any input.

Wim

[eric nielsen]

I broke the outside-of-the-frame part of my G35 slide stop almost as soon as I got it. My WEAK-HAND palm was kicking it up in recoil, not sure how your strong-hand thumb is doing that. My thumbs stay off the gun like the pictures in Brian's book.

The part on the G35 wasn't flush with the frame so I tried to squeeze the part with pliers, get it closer to the frame, and it broke.

That's all I've shot with for 2 years now. The part inside the frame still works fine - it holds the trigger pin in place & it locks the slide back on an empty mag.

You could probably break off the outside part with vise-grip pliers or wedge a fat screwdriver blade underneath it and twist. You might want to first buy another slide stop just in case the 'broken' one doesn't work for you.

[Duane Thomas]

Does your 23C have the standard flat slide stop, or the extended "competition" slide stop? If it's the latter, you could do away with your problems simply by switching to the former.

[Chuck Anderson]

I take a dremel and trim mine forward so that there is only about 1/4 - 1/8 of an inch coming back. I also trim it smaller.

[SRT Driver]

Be careful when cutting the slide stop since it holds the trigger pin in place.

The triangle shaped protrusion on the slide stop is pushed up with the follower and activates the slide stop. If you dremel that area off, it will deactivate the slide stop.

Insert an empty mag and open the slide. Look at the left front of the mag with the slide open and you'll see the area.

[Flexmoney]

Just to recap:

- If you take it out completely, the trigger might wobble, and the trigger pin could walk a bit.

- If you cut it such that it is just serving as a washer, then it might be hard to wiggle it when you want to remove the trigger pin to break the gun down.

- There is a tab on the inside that contacts the follower of an empty mag...and activates the slide stop, when empty.

Grinding the outside down/forward is an option that I have seen used with good results (as Lawman said). I think EricW has mentioned using super-glue to hold it down? (If so, might as well grind off the tab that contacts the empty follower.)

[GlockSpeed31]

On almost all the Glocks I shoot IPSC w/ I take the Slide Stop Lever out completely. I haven't had a problem at all with the trigger pin walking on me in the past 12-14 years.

GlockSpeed31

[Duane Thomas]

Be careful when cutting the slide stop since it holds the trigger pin in place.

The triangle shaped protrusion on the slide stop is pushed up with the follower and activates the slide stop. If you dremel that area off, it will deactivate the slide stop.

The portion of the slide stop we're discussing cutting is not the hole that holds the trigger pin in place, or the portion that protrudes into the magazine well, but the tab of the slide stop that's depressed to drop the slide during a speed reload.

[Wim]

Thanks for the input.

Yep, I was worried about the trigger pin "walking" which was why I figured I would leave at least a tab at that junction, or machine a similar thickness washer. There is already a very slight wobble on a Glock trigger and I wouldn't want to increase it.

Making a mod to stop the slide from locking back when the mag empties is not my worry. It hasn't heppened for a veeery long time, but my grip is really high and I risk locking the slide back under recoil as my grip puts my stronghand thumb right under the lever (its the standard factory "slimline" model).

I could just grind the tab off - or make it a lot smaller from what you are saying. I could probably grind most of it away and just leave a tab to wiggle if I need to when stripping it down - I don't take the trigger group out much anyway.

Thanks.

Wim

[Duane Thomas]

Your grip may not be as high as you think it is. With a truly high grip on a Glock, you can wind up with your thumb on top of the slide stop (unless you adjust your grip technique accordingly), not right beneath it.

[Harmon]

if you grind off the tab that hits the follower, you still run the risk of activating the slide stop during recoil.

you could glue it down,

cut it off, leaving some inside so that you keep tension on trigger pin

(best idea)

or you could just take it out.

cutting the part off that contacts the follower would make the slidestop inactive, but it would not solve his problem.

[George]

I have been running my open Glock 17L shooting a 170 PF load without the slide stop and pin for about 18 months now and it's fine. If a 17L shooting a major round doesn't make it walk out, then you won't have any trouble either. This way, you can always just reinstall it if you want to sell it, or let someone else use it.

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Regards,

[Flexmoney]

I am glad to hear real-life reports that the pin doesn't walk out. Sure beats rumors and concerns.

[Nik Habicht]

On one of my frames, the pin walks --- even though the slide release is installed and intact. I just keep pushing it in --- one of these days I'll manage to replace it.......

[George]

Trigger pin is never out of place when I finish shooting so I am just assuming it doesn't walk. Thought here: My weak thumb is all over this area when I shoot and my strong index finger is always firmly against the side of the frame when I am not actually shooting. I am guessing that it might be walking and I am just always pushing it back in without noticing it. Hmmmm! Gonna have to check this out when I get back home later and see exactly where my finger/thumb rides.

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Regards,

[Wim]

Thanks for all of the feedback.

Here's what I'm going to do:

Cut off the rear part of the slidestop from just behind the little notch that retains the spring that keeps the slidestop down. That way I figure the spring stops the tab left there from "flopping" about and jamming things up. The tab left will also be short enough not to get in the way of feeding if it moves a bit and I will avoid the whole trigger pin walk issue. And it leaves a piece to wiggle about (if need be) when stripping out the trigger group.

Thanks for the input, it helped me decide what to do to avoid the concerns expressed by everyone. I'll let you all know how it works out; but I may not do it immediately.

Wim

[Nik Habicht]

FWIW, mine rides out to the right --- and I need a pen or other implement to push it back. Usually can get through several club matches without needing to.....

[George]

I checked my grip and my fingers are always pushing on the pin while I grip the gun (weak thumb and strong index finger). I don't know if the pin walks, but if it does, it's not going anywhere without my say-so ;-)

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Regards,

[Matt Cheely]

So I read through this whole thread, but is taking the whole thing out or removing the part of the slide stop that's on the outside of the gun legal for production??

[George]

Nothing says you can't remove parts, it only talks about adding/replacing parts ;-)

The slide stop is not part of the safety system so it is still a serviceable/safe pistol.

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Regards,

[Rufus The Bum]

What about when you go to a chrono at a major match? How do you proceed if you tell the chrono guys that your gun physically won't go to slide-lock?

Every single Area and National match I've been to, they say to lock the slide to the rear.

[eric nielsen]

Area 6 I said I can't lock the slide back. Chrono-man said "Well you can show me a clear gun, yes?" which I did. No problem.

[Mike H]

could anyone provide a photo perhaps of their slide stop mods for those of us somewhat impaired on the visualizing aspect

thanks!

[EricW]

I think EricW has mentioned using super-glue to hold it down?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, I yammered about it, but never did it. I changed my grip and haven't had an issue since. I kinda of like the Glock slide stop. If you polish it up, you can shoot to slide lock and it will auto-release when you slam the new mag in. It's a very handy feature.

[Nik Habicht]

I think EricW has mentioned using super-glue to hold it down?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, I yammered about it, but never did it. I changed my grip and haven't had an issue since. I kinda of like the Glock slide stop. If you polish it up, you can shoot to slide lock and it will auto-release when you slam the new mag in. It's a very handy feature.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ruh? You got instructions for where to polish Uncle Eric? Or will you be going into the "polished stock slide releases" business? I've always liked the occasional auto forward ---- making it more than occasional would be cool......