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550b Primer bar sticking


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Ive noticed recently that im getting my primer bar stuck in the rearward position more and more lately, If I take the primer system apart and clean it, it works again but only for 1-200 rounds before it starts sticking again, it didnt use to do this, the press probably has between 15-20k+ rounds loaded on it. Do i need to polish everything, replace the return spring, I'm at my whits end with it having to stop and release it forward without letting the new primer fly out.

Any suggestions would be great!

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Is a well known "problem" with the RL550 there is a solution a extended primer plate with a ball bearing .

Just put this in and be done with it .

Google for Dillon extended primer plate , you will get a link to ebay .

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Is a well known "problem" with the RL550 there is a solution a extended primer plate with a ball bearing .

Just put this in and be done with it .

Google for Dillon extended primer plate , you will get a link to ebay .

Awesome thanks for the link, that extended plate makes allot of sense.

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@Th3Un4givin

I fully agree with the suggestion from Tino2212.

Also, the use of some powdered graphite on the primer slide bearing plate has made a positive difference for me. (Don't use oil or grease on the primer slide or the bearing plate; they attract particulate material and compound the problem.)

Hope this helps.

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Check the activation rod too. It may need bending to make things line up right. That was a problem on my old 550 from the mid-80s. It tends, over time, to not line up straight and kicks the slide to one side, locking it up in the position towards you as it tries to pick up a primer.

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Check the activation rod too. It may need bending to make things line up right. That was a problem on my old 550 from the mid-80s. It tends, over time, to not line up straight and kicks the slide to one side, locking it up in the position towards you as it tries to pick up a primer.

What do you mean by the activating rod?

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There's clean and then there's clean.

I had a similar experience to yours and it wasn't until I polished the bottom of the primer bar with a polishing stone that things were remedied. While solvents will wipe away the primer residue grunge, keep in mind that you compress that residue into the bar with each cartridge loaded. That presented itself on my system with a pock marked appearance on the base of the bar. Once that was stoned smooth, the press operated like new.

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Also make sure you don't over tie those two screws.

PB020016.jpg

Ill have to take a look at it tonight and make sure nothing isnt out of square, thanks!

There's clean and then there's clean.

I had a similar experience to yours and it wasn't until I polished the bottom of the primer bar with a polishing stone that things were remedied. While solvents will wipe away the primer residue grunge, keep in mind that you compress that residue into the bar with each cartridge loaded. That presented itself on my system with a pock marked appearance on the base of the bar. Once that was stoned smooth, the press operated like new.

Yea, i ordered that extended plate so I think while im waiting for it to come in im going to polish the sides and bottom of the bar just to make sure, cant hurt anything, Thanks.

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Some of my thoughts. The machine has worked with no problems then BLAH, BLAH happened !

What is the ROOT cause of the problem.

The primer system does have it's draw backs. Mine has been flawless for about 10K rounds, then a while back, the primer seating stem was shaving metal off the sides of the primer cup. Slivers of metal were in the cup after seating a primer, some with difficulty. Small angles appeared on the edges of the primers, It was a BENT primer seating stem. Replaced stem and cup, runs flawless. (NATO range brass, 9mm, since then all has been swaged)

About every 50 rds I blow some air from a small can of compressed air in the area of the primer bar/bearing plate/ram to remove the debris so the primer bar doesn't keep riding on it and dragging it back when it picks up a new primer. Takes about 5 seconds, if the air didn't remove the debris I have a old tooth brush for a quick sweep. If I see black lines on the primer bar I'll take a moment to brush it or wipe with a cloth.

Primer system not running smooth, lots of things to clean and check. Use the Dillon customer service, most parts are free to your door.

Don't try and re-invent the machine

1) Clean primer bar, clean bearing plate and surface it sits on, use a little alcohol if you want, just don't scrub on it. If the bearing plate is worn replace it.

Everyone who has polished the primer bar and bearing plate has only temporarily fixed the problem.

The primer bar and bearing plate each has a finish on them to make them slide against each other without using a lubricant. Two smooth/polished surfaces rubbing against each other creates a lot of friction unless riding on lubricating film.

While you have the primer bar in hand, check and clean the primer cup and seating stem.

2) While apart, check to see if the 2 hold down bolts were over tighten and created a bulge, use a small file on the area to look for high spots. 3) Operating rod not running straight thru the 2 white rollers, adjust operating rod bracket by twisting it, make sure you grease the rod end where it rides in the bracket.

4) Primer bar does not travel it's full length to pick-up a primer, bend the operating rod a tiny bit, at the TOP bend and outwards.

5) Primer bar does not return to rest under the shell plate fully, check return spring and replace if necessary.

6)Check the tip on the primer magazine feed tube, if worn or damaged replace it. Check the white primer feed tube stopper pin.

That covers the things that I look at while reloading, if the machine is not running smooth I stop reloading and tweak what needs to be tweaked.

Maybe I just don't reload enough to realize the problems, but I know a couple guys that reload a lot, as far as there primer system goes, basically what I stated above, they replace the parts when worn keeping the machines as factory as they got them.

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I understand it works for a lot of people.

I think that they just should have replaced their factory bearing plate with a new one and they are free from Dillon.

If they polished their primer bar they should buy a new one from Dillon to go along with a new bearing plate.

In my above post I tried to explain my thoughts on the primer system.

Same goes for the shell plate. (along with being properly adjusted and locking set screw in place)

These two systems need to be taken apart and cleaned when they are not working properly.

Use some alcohol prep pads and wipe them down, no polishing, sanding or those sort of things.

Use some compressed air while reloading to blow off debris, keep an old toothbrush handy, use it to brush stuff off.

YES the primer bar should have some play and wiggle room in it. The travels of the primer bar are critical in two spots, NEITHER OF WHICH WILL BE HELPED WITH ADD ON GADGETS, Getting a new primer and the delivery of the new primer. The primer cup is centered and stopped by a designed "U" shape in the primer housing to receive a new primer and the primer cup with the new primer then is stopped under the shell plate by the return spring post resting against the travel adjustment and a perfectly aligned platform on the ram.

It's critical these systems are kept clean for smooth operation.

Same for the de-priming complaints

Replace the de-priming pin or file the end of the pin back to factory. With use it wears, the end becomes rounded, it starts to mushroom, it starts to HOLD onto a primer and when the case starts to retract from the die it flings the spent primer anywhere but in the spent primer catch chute .

The end of that pin should be FLAT. It is a flat punch. Round bar stock with a clean cut. Can't think of any better description right now.

I started lurking on these forums about three years ago when we wanted to start reloading, these 3 systems had the most complaints, with the easiest fixes.

Drank the BLUE KOOLAID and have never looked back, Brian hooked us up with a "never reloaded before, 550b package" and a few other tools and could not be happier.

Thanks to all the forum members here that helped to make our choice and all the help on reloading in general.

NOW GO CLEAN YOUR MACHINE !!!

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It's been a few years since I've used a 550 (Went to a 650) but when I had this problem Dillon had redesigned the block and if I remember correctly, instead of a threaded hole in the aluminum they had what looked like Heli-coil inserts. See acpie360's picture above. Over-tightening those 2 screws can cause the piece to bulge. Dillon sent a new one, no charge,of course.

Howard

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I just got off the phone with Dillon. They are sending me a new track bearing, slide return spring, feed tube and tips & a complete slide assembly. All warranted. I was actually surprised by this since I've had this machine about 15 years.

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I just got off the phone with Dillon. They are sending me a new track bearing, slide return spring, feed tube and tips & a complete slide assembly. All warranted. I was actually surprised by this since I've had this machine about 15 years.

That is I and probably everyone here loves their dillon!!!

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Check the activation rod too. It may need bending to make things line up right. That was a problem on my old 550 from the mid-80s. It tends, over time, to not line up straight and kicks the slide to one side, locking it up in the position towards you as it tries to pick up a primer.

^ THIS, Was my issue. I actually had to get dillion to send me another one, worked flawlessly since then. This was with a brand new press and having issues with it even setup correctly, For some reason the bar just was not shaped right, the new bar did the trick.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I must just have bad luck, both times I have called Dillon about this problem the super rude guy that answered the phone just said it needed to be kept clean or I could order a new part. I got the extended bar from EBay and the priming works fine now. Well worth it for a lasting solution.

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