candiru

Yes. Primarily because I wanted the micrometer versions of both. I also bought the Redding expander. IIRC, I bought all three of those from UniqueTek but I don't believe they carry them anymore. I've also switched to the Redding Titanium Carbide sizing side in place of the MA sizing die due continuing issues with the MA dies.

Why not just use your phone?

I don’t know about fully waterproof but I’ve run mine in heavy rain and dropped in puddles and it keeps right on working.

Depends... what's your press? For example, people running 1050's/(R)Evo's, tend to have a dedicated decapping die in Station 2 and then run a sizing die in one of the other stations. That what I do on a Evo Pro. Or you can run the decapping & sizing die in Station 2. It's up to you. If you go with the combined decapping & sizing approach then yes, you'll need to buy both the die plus decapping setup. You definitely want the flicker spring.

What’s your question?

Sorry, just saw this response. I know the feeling. I waited to buy one because of hearing about so many early problems. I had to send my powder measure back to get it fixed. I find it absolutely unconscionable that the original owner of the company spouted so much bulls#!t about their powder measure being good and it took so long for the company to really fix the problem (by switching to the smaller drum). I did a slew of testing when I first got the press and so I had a lot of data in hand before I called customer support. When I got it back, I did a lot more testing and it's been basically the same as the Dillon on my 1050 so I'm glad they did finally fix the problem.

I have the latest updated mechanical powder measure with the small drum for pistol. It's nice & smooth up and down. It takes some effort to get the drum rotated -- whether that's excessive or not, I'm not an ME and haven't tried to do any math about that. In terms of it over-belling, I'm running a Redding expander just prior to the powder drop. I setup the powder drop to the height to just get the drum to rotate fully and no farther and it all works.

How were the primers crushed? Were they partially in the case and part out? Or did the case not actually deprime (aka primer suck back)? Or what? Different solutions depending on the details. On the RF100, do you have it isolated from the press? Did you put it on a mouse pad and make sure it's level? You can play with a bit of sandpaper to smooth out the drop spot.

The powder drop was the big thing that kept me away -- the original Mark7 owner's bulls#!t about the precision and accuracy of the original powder drop was off-putting to the say the least. With the new small drum, the mechanical powder drop is finally actually good. The 0.02gr SD is the limit precision for my scale and across multiple 10-20 check runs the ES is averaging 0.06gr -- which is as good as I get on my well-tuned 1050. My setup is Mark7 Evo Pro with the extra guide rod, mechanical powder drop, stacked primer system, regular MBF, and the regular case feeder. Now that the powder drop is working as it should, the most annoying thing is the case feeder that jams way too often.

Indeed. zzt's loves to over-exaggerate the temperature sensitivity of N310. It's great he's found other powders that work for him. There's plenty of us who use N310 who have chrono information from there to well over 100f. Back to the point of softness, using faster powders with heavier bullets is the way.

If you can get the e3 cheap then get both it and the N320 and then you'll be well stocked and have alternatives ready in case of shortages.

Marketing? It's faster than Clays. It's right around N310.

Indeed. 10's of thousands. And the hyperbole of its temperature sensitivity is crap.

Exactly.

I have my main toolhead setup as BiknSwans listed. FW Arms decapper or MA decapper with flicker spring -- have both, they've been 100% for me in terms of no sucked back primers. FW Arms (or MA) swage backer MA .40S&W sizing die Redding Expander die Redding Micrometer seating die Redding Micrometer crimp die

The new/fixed pistol powder drum on the mechanical powder thrower is working well. 0.02gr SD and 0.08gr ES using N320.

Then you haven’t got your sizing correct. And if that’s the case then all your reloaded ammo is unsafe.

Since you keep asking about softer feel... if that’s what you are really looking for then you should consider trying 200gr .40S&W bullets instead. You’ll get more of that push feel rather than snap.

It’s fine if you know how to reload consistently and safely. Long OAL, proper “neck” tension, low variance in powder drop, etc. But I think that’s always important with reloading.

Others asked. So I gave both. :-)

And N310 is even better. In my testing in my pistols, N310 was also more consistent over the chrono. Since the OP hasn't mentioned what gun or what OAL they are going to run... We're talking major power factor and loading way longer than SAAMI specs: 1.85-1.20" OALs.

180gr .40S&W at 1.20" OAL through SVI barrels: Coated (Ibejiheads/Acme/Blue Bullets) 4.2gr N310 4.7gr N320 MG JHP 5.2gr N320 -- 5" barrel 5.1gr N320 -- 5.4" barrel 4.8gr N310 -- 5" barrel Zero JHP 5.1gr N320

Huh? At 1.180” OAL with 180gr coated .40s&w, you’re about a full grain low.

Yep. I’d start at 4.5gr of N320 and work up from there. My load in my pistol is 4.7.

Get and use the MA flick springs. Still literally zero suck back since I added them.