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@ rishii Will you please post a photo of your setup? Thank you, sir. I have recently faced the same problem as outlined in your original post. ltdmstr (see above) has given excellent guidance. I used a 1/4-20 threaded brass insert with a 1/4-20 bolt, and that worked perfectly...everything is now stable and secure. This was easy and simple. Sarge (see above) has the ultimate solution: drill a hole in the support post and either screw into the post or drill all the way thru and install a bolt with washers and a nut. (I would drill all the way through and install a lock washer next to the nut.) I'm not claiming to be an expert, just sharing a thought about what may work. Someone else may come along with a better solution. Hope this helps. All best wishes.

@ YeahGo Enjoyed reading your interesting/informative post about your use of diamond paste. I would think that it took considerable courage (perhaps frustration was also a factor) to do this. Brief questions about the process/results, if I may: 1) How much of the diamond paste did you apply (and reapply) to the rails, chamber, and other components? Was it just a very light coat? 2) When you finished the process, was there any noticeable difference in the side-to-frame fit? If so, how much? 3) Did you have to completely disassemble (detail strip) the pistol in order to apply the diamond paste to the hammer, trigger, etc.? Thank you.

Wow! You found the video I needed. It is great to be able to visualize the correct process. When I tried installing the spring as the final step, I was attempting to install the spring-with-hook as the final step, rather than the "dogleg." Live and learn... Thanks so much for your help. We have the nicest persons on this Forum. We are indeed fortunate!

Thanks for your reply. One guy at our range has tried the same thing, and he described the process as follows: "It's kinda like trying to put 5 pounds of sugar in a 2 pound sack!" (Better to laugh than cry...that's for sure.)

My experience mirrors the statement captioned above. Despite multiple attempts, I have been unsuccessful in getting the trigger stud to mate with the trigger bar. (I have installed several other p320 triggers without difficulty.) Customer service at GG indicated their awareness of this problem and offered to exchange my trigger and trigger bar for new ones. Unfortunately the issue remains unresolved. If anyone has found a successful solution to this installation, please be kind enough to share it. Thanks.

Thanks for your input. Just to be clear, I am more than well aware of the wealth of information on this forum; I've been reading it (multiple times a day) for more years than I care to count. All best wishes.

In the Feb 2013 issue of Handloader Magazine (issue #282, as best I recall) Brian Pearce published an article entitled "Pearce Loads the 9mm Luger." I am unable to find the link to this article despite a lengthy Internet search. Please post the link if you have it in your files. Thanks for your help.

This link will get you to the Instructions Menu on the Dawson Precision website. https://dawsonprecision.com/instructions-for-dp-parts/

Check your crimp die...it may need to be adjusted. Hope this helps.

Please accept my sincere thanks for your helpful replies. I have benefitted from the information and instruction from other members on more occasions than I can count. I'm constantly amazed at the depth of knowledge and experience that is available just for the asking. It's a blessing to have this forum. Stay safe...wash your hands and keep your hands away from your eyes, ears, and mouth. (One might not think that the ear canal can be a portal of entry for a pathogen such as this virus, but it can). All best wishes.

Thank you, sir. Appreciate the straightforward answer. All best wishes.

I am considering converting a Series 80 (1911, .45 ACP) to Series 70 configuration. It is clear that it is necessary to: a) remove the two firing pin block actuating levers from the frame, and b) replace them with an appropriately sized shim. Question: Must I also remove the plunger and spring from the slide, or can I leave them in place? (I have searched multiple internet sources in an effort to resolve this question, but thus far I have been unable to find a definitive answer to this question. Thanks for your input.)

In what way is the "B" model different from the HK VP9? Is it only the magazine release (button vs paddle) that is different? Thanks.

In addition to the thoughts from 191138sc, Dillon recommends thoroughly cleaning the primer track, primer slide surfaces, and inside of the primer assembly body with alcohol. In many cases, there is buildup of oil, powder/primer residue, etc., on these surfaces, which creates interference with smooth motion of the primer slide. Some individuals use Teflon spray or graphite spray on the surface of the primer track to lessen frictional forces. Hope this is helpful.

Thank you for reviving this topic from 2015. The prior posts have provided insight into a situation I also have experienced. Despite lengthy and detailed Internet searches, I never uncovered this particular thread (and that probably is a matter of not selecting the right words in initiating the search). There are those who object to reviving old threads, but I have been amazed at how often previous information has proven helpful. Finally, thanks for the interesting (and novel) thought that the polished and shiny magazine case may be a contributing factor in your double-feeds.

I would completely disassemble all 4 dies, inspect them carefully, and clean them thoroughly...then reinstall them to see if that made a difference. Another way to approach the problem would be to substitute a die--one at a time--to see if you can identify the culprit.

Yes, I have used it for a long time and it works well for me. It's easy to apply (just be sure to let it dry before use) and easy to remove when cleaning the primer system.

Just a point of clarification: when you say, "He opened it up a tiny bit...", what did he open up? Thanks.

Does anyone have comments about the Overwatch Precision trigger? Thanks.

Thank you, sir.

What kind of tape should be used? All the best. Thanks.

Are you using case lube (e.g., Hornady One Shot) on your brass prior to reloading? If not, it may be worth a try. Had an identical problem with CCI small pistol primers, and spraying with case lube resolved it. One other thought: have you cleaned your resizing-depriming die in Station-1 recently? If not, residue in the die body may be contributing to the "sticky motion" at Station-1. That motion may be partially dislodging the primer from the primer cup and resulting in its seating abnormally. Hope this helps. Best wishes.

Look at your Dillon 550b Instruction Manual that came with your press On page 7 you will see a heading (righthand column) entitled "To Begin Reloading." This section and relevant photos continue on pages 8 and 9 of the manual. This will explain the reason for your problem and how to resolve it. Here is the link to the Instruction Manual: http://dillonhelp.com/Dillon Manual PDFs/Dillon-RL550B-September-2010.pdf Hope this helps. Best wishes.

@SCTaylor Will you please tell us... How many grains of E3? Which 125 grain bullet and profile? Which pistol? Velocity? Thank you, sir.

@wtturn Thanks for the data from your Glock 34. What COL did you use for that truncated cone bullet?