Kletus Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Did you check to see if the brass case gauges after it leaves the sizer? That was a great suggestion. I also found that when you start loading 147 grain bullets short.... like in the 1.12 range.... then you may be getting too much bullet in the case and causing it to get into the thicker part of the case. When I started running 147 grain Blue Bullets I was right on the edge. Most of my bullets would case gauge fine... but if I ran CBC brass (which is thicker) then I would get large amounts of rejects at the case gauge. Take something sharp and scribe a line around the bullet where it meets the brass, then pull the bullet and measure from the base of the bullet to the line. What does it measure? I've found that anything under .3 seems to work fine. If you start moving over .3 then you will have case gauge problems with thicker brass. You also open yourself up to higher likelihood of a pressure spike because the case is tapered and you start losing volume quickly as you go deeper. I also bought this: http://benstoegerproshop.com/100-hole-9mm-luger-chamber-checker-cartridge-case-gauge/ Yes it's expensive.... but I case gauge every bullet before it goes into my range bag. It serves as a great check to verify that no .380 cases somehow snuck through, no raised primers, proper fit, etc. Rejects either go into a pull container or a practice container depending on the issue. Edited April 18, 2016 by Kletus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbob21 Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Did you check to see if the brass case gauges after it leaves the sizer? That was a great suggestion. ......... I also bought this: http://benstoegerproshop.com/100-hole-9mm-luger-chamber-checker-cartridge-case-gauge/. I have the same hundred case gauge... Takes 5 mins if ur checking 100ish, but I get lazy if I'm doing 500-1000 at a time... I'll look into ur earlier suggestions.... Was wondering if it's worth sizing ALL my brass first and gauging it and keeping it in its own bin, just to save the 5% rejects from accumulating in my "pull ziplock", lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) The force applied by your recoil spring to put those rounds into battery is not so high that you need a screwdriver. Hold slide firmly down range in left hand, slam right hand into frame to break the jam. What he said. Hold the slide in your off-hand just like you're about to rack the slide overhand, then kung-fu strike the back of the grip with the heel of your strong hand's palm. Much less likely to scratch your gun up than using a screwdriver or banging it against a table... and you get to keep it pointed down range and fix it immediately and get back to shooting. Edited April 18, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbob21 Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Tried that a few times... About 1/2 my attempts keeps you shooting... The skrewdriver I was referring to in tiny. Probably 1/8" head. Doesn't provide a lot of force and haven't scratched any parts. It's more for leverage than for brute force in opening the slide/barrel. Didnt get any death jams with smaller oal and gauged ammo for a small match yesterday. (The failures would likely have jammed) Shot lil less than 300 between three guns. Did have about 2 fail to feeds, but either re-racked or removed mag and it slide into chamber and kept going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 18, 2016 by bigbob21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanks Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 A little update. I do have a Lee undersize die on the way from Midway. However, I ran out of 147gr Precision Delta RN bullets. Switched to Xtreme 147gr HP (0.355). Loaded about 500 of the Xtremes. ZERO chamber gauge rejects. Puzzled about why the bullets would make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef15 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 A little update. I do have a Lee undersize die on the way from Midway. However, I ran out of 147gr Precision Delta RN bullets. Switched to Xtreme 147gr HP (0.355). Loaded about 500 of the Xtremes. ZERO chamber gauge rejects. Puzzled about why the bullets would make a difference. Bearing surface length, the area of the bullet that is full diameter. If it is longer you could either be seating long and jamming the lands, or less likely seating short and getting too far into the tapered portion of the caseaking the outer diameter too large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kletus Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) Bullet diameter and profile change from bullet style to bullet style. This will change how long the bullet will be before it hits the lands of your barrel, where your bullet seater makes contact with the bullet, and how deep the base of the bullet is seated into the case. Speaking of 147 Grain Flat Point Coated Lead Bullets - I can load Bayou's to 1.140, SNS and ACME to 1.130, Blue Bullets to 1.125, and Black Bullets to 1.060: All based on plunk test in my barrel. These are all the same basic weight, diameter, and style of bullet, but there is a noticeable difference in how the profile affects my seating length. In my experience... I can load the Bayous, SNS, and ACME with zero issues with the mixed brass that I have. I'm right on the edge with the Blue Bullets: Any longer and they don't plunk test... any shorter and I start to have case gauge issues with thicker brass because the base is being pushed into the tapered portion of the case. Black Bullets aren't even an option for my gun because they have to be seated so short for my barrel. I still think you need to step back and take this step by step. 1. Size 25 brass and case gauge them right out of the sizing die. Do they all pass? If they do, then the sizing die probably isn't your issue. I don't think you need to case gauge all of your brass right out of the sizer, just enough to determine whether you have an issue with your sizing die. 2. Did you do as I suggested and scribe a line around a loaded bullet right where it meets the case? What is the base to line dimension for the Precision Deltas? What is the base to line dimension for the Xtremes? I would like to know the answer to this just for my own information. 3. How did you decide how long to run the Xtremes? Plunk test? Other? 4. A slight hourglass shape is normal... but do you see noticeably more or less hourglass with one of your loads vs. the other? Edited April 19, 2016 by Kletus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishsticks Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 A little update. I do have a Lee undersize die on the way from Midway. However, I ran out of 147gr Precision Delta RN bullets. Switched to Xtreme 147gr HP (0.355). Loaded about 500 of the Xtremes. ZERO chamber gauge rejects. Puzzled about why the bullets would make a difference. When I bought some extremes they were right at or under diameter. If you are loading short, 9mm being tapered, the difference in diameter may account for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightravage Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 (edited) The high primer concerns me! That should be your first and foremost situation to resolve. After that you can move to case gauging. Once you find what caused your high primer, you may also find why you may have a sizing problem. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk +1.....the high primer is more of an issue than a few rounds that won't chamber. It might just be the pic but it seems like the primer seating depth isn't very consistent in those rounds. I'd work on that first.I am also new to reloading. I have a 650. When you say he needs to work in seating the primers....is there anything different then following the 70's video on YouTube from Dillon on the 650 about setting up all the dies? I mean is there more information on just the primers alone? The more info I can get the better off I'll be. Edited April 24, 2016 by straightravage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 I'll do the chamber check on the firearm with the rounds that failed. I did not have this problem with Dillon dies on the .45s. I am following the manual, as a matter of fact the Dillon tech support suggested I actually go as far as I could beyond "just touching" on the sizing die. Now, it seems that I have a set of Lee dies in 9mm, standard carbide. Is that the dies you guys are talking about or is there a special Lee undersize die? Here is a pic of some of the rejects: Not to be picky but the case lower right even has a high primer.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanks Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 I switched over to the Lee undersize die, and put some into the case gauge and all plunked down. Ran about 300 rounds last night with zero rejects. In regards to the high primer. I know the reason, at times after resizing when I bring the handle up the brass moves a tad. If I do not notice and fix it the primer will seat crookedly and will be high. Now that I know to watch for it, I catch the one or two that does move every hundred rounds or so and primers seat flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoz Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 In regards to the high primer. I know the reason, at times after resizing when I bring the handle up the brass moves a tad. If I do not notice and fix it the primer will seat crookedly and will be high. Now that I know to watch for it, I catch the one or two that does move every hundred rounds or so and primers seat flush. I'm not familiar with how the 650 runs but brass that shifts in the shellholder just before seating the primer is a common occurrence. It was with my Lee Turret and is with my T-7. You just have to choose the point right before seating where you reset the brass in the shell holder or push it all the way in. It's just a procedural thing with your technique but be sure you take care of it before continuing. I see about four different seating depths in your picture and that last one especially is really bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 I switched over to the Lee undersize die, and put some into the case gauge and all plunked down. Ran about 300 rounds last night with zero rejects. In regards to the high primer. I know the reason, at times after resizing when I bring the handle up the brass moves a tad. If I do not notice and fix it the primer will seat crookedly and will be high. Now that I know to watch for it, I catch the one or two that does move every hundred rounds or so and primers seat flush. The primer system has a case aligner that ensures the case is all the way into the shell plate, sounds like you need to adjust it... jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanks Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 The primer system has a case aligner that ensures the case is all the way into the shell plate, sounds like you need to adjust it...jj Hmmm, are you thinking about the 650? I am using a 550B don't recall a case aligner on the primer system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 The primer system has a case aligner that ensures the case is all the way into the shell plate, sounds like you need to adjust it... jj Hmmm, are you thinking about the 650? I am using a 550B don't recall a case aligner on the primer system. Yep, sorry... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy69 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 loks like your primers are all jacked up. Bent, high, low, kinked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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