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Installing a disconnector without a vice?


ArrDave

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Should I give it a whirl? I have a starter punch from CGW. Ordered a PreB disco and a new hammer pin. Anyone done it?

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

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I've done it plenty of times without a vise. Just put it onto a solid surface with somewhere for the pin to go and drive the pin out. It shouldn't be too bad to accomplish.

Edited by nmbpman
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Should I give it a whirl? I have a starter punch from CGW. Ordered a PreB disco and a new hammer pin. Anyone done it?

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

Tap stalk clipped my topic "without a vise"

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I have changed out many discos and replaced the pins with CGW hammer/disco pins using a bench block and a starter punch. I would not worry about the necessity of a vice for the job. Its all about the starter punch.

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I have changed out many discos and replaced the pins with CGW hammer/disco pins using a bench block and a starter punch. I would not worry about the necessity of a vice for the job. Its all about the starter punch.

Since I went the CZC route I ordered the OEM pins, any tips on setting those?

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I got the starter punch from CGW and used a wood block. I used their hardened pin with red lock tight on it. I had to stone the disconnecter slightly it was hanging up on my single action. A little tech support from CGW and David sent me an email how to and I fixed it right up.

Edited by Timido
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I've done it plenty of times without a vise. Just put it onto a solid surface with somewhere for the pin to go and drive the pin out. It shouldn't be too bad to accomplish.

Like nmbpman said flat surface and a place for the pin to go. I used a small 4"x4"X0.5" board with a small pilot hole drilled for the pin to fall into. A few sturdy strikes with a hammer on a quality punch should get it out. Definitly a good idea to use the CGW hammer strut pins, they make it easy to dissemble later if need be.

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Just a good flat surface with a way to let the pin exit. piece of wood, etc.

I use a bench block

the trick is the starter punch to get the pin moving then like a 2mm punch to tap out rest of way.

make sure when resetting pins, they are flush or stone them flush. so there is no binding when the hammer moves.

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Locktite the pin is needed it appears; what strenght?

No lock tight just friction fit.

I do mine on a vise, but the first was on a solid piece of wood with a hole for the pin. Easier on the vise, but not impossible without. Even easier would just to buy a new hammer strut.

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I use high density polyethylene (white cutting board material) from the scrap bin at my local TAP plastic's and drill the pin hole sizes, smooth needed needle nose pliers, small mallet and punch set.

Oh yeah, a bit of patience and good light,.... don't just beat the crap out of it.

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It's going into an old shadow custom with a comp hammer

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

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