ultimase

That sounds a bit..weird. When I spoke with Springfield they sent me a fedex label directly and I just dropped it off at a fedex hub, no FFL involved.

On it's way back to me so roughly 2-3 weeks. Honestly, it felt like a while, but that's pretty good. They have listed: Inspect pistol Reamed chamber Recut & polished barrel ramp Polished chamber Refit barrel Tuned extractor Safety checked & tested Hopefully that fixes the issues I was having with failure to extract and light strikes.

That's kinda amusing, I have a high 11XXX serial and I do not have the lightening cuts. So it appears that cut off might be somewhere in the 12XXX series.

Enbarking on this same journey with a 5 inch as well. After checking it I found that was a relatively low serial number thus first gen gun. After light strikes, and some failure to extracts as well as noticing the hang up on the disconnector I did the same, and called Springfield last week and had it sent in.

There is some adjustability in terms of tightness for the blue tube, it's also replaceable if it's too worn. I had a rf100 that would flip around this area. I had it looked at by Dillon and after I've gotten it back it's been pretty much perfect.

Sometimes one of the bolts can back out a little, causing it to not work as well. I took mine back to Dillon, and could hardly recognize it when I got back it. It was pretty much brand new at that point given all the parts they replaced. It's been back to being a pleasure to use after that refurbishment.

Just to make sure I don't screw something else up, just take a punch and make a few dimples under the sight? Am I relying on the dimple to hold the sight to the dovetail, or is the dimple to hold more loctite?

The Dawson sights haven't needed to be drilled, they already had the depression machined in. Does anyone have a source for oversized sights? I'll have to ask dawson, but I swore they said they didn't have oversized ones.

see below, I somehow found a glitch in the matrix

Remove the roll pin, clean the dovetail with acetone, allow to dry. Place a few drops of loctite into the rear of the dovetail. Install front sight. Install new roll pin. Allow loctite to dry over 24+ hours. Once installed the sight feels solid, without the loctite the front sight does have a decent amount of movement.

Running a RMR with IDRS rear sight on a sp01 that I've been co-witnessing with a tall dawson front sight. For some reason in the past 4 months I've managed to launch three of these down range. After cleaning with acetone I've tried a recommendation of red loctite in the dovetail and most recently green loctite 648. Still somehow I've donated three of these front sights to the range. I've read some have made shims to put tension under the front sight with a coke can shim, others have dimped the sight base. Anyone have any recent success? Thank you.

Good to hear gents.

CGW has a trigger bar spring tutorial that might help https://cdn1.cajungunworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/28155355/How-To-34-Adjustment.pdf If you have a pick or some time of hook you can pull the trigger spring out of the groove and then bend it slowly to meet the tutorial.

heartland of texas armory shows in stock

The first picture is a RL1050, it's an older press, it has a shorter stroke and because of that is limited to shorter cartridges. It may not have a complete set of dies, but it does have the powder measure. Handgun only loaders might be more interested in the press as the stroke is less than the longer super 1050. The second picture is a 1050 super, it has a longer stroke and has more cartridges that it can load including rifle. This press appears to have a complete set of dies, but is missing a powder measure. The third picture centrally and off to the periphery appears to be both 550's. The central 550 appears to be complete with a complete set of dies and powder measure. The one in the periphery is difficult to tell if it has a powder measure, but I believe has the linkages for a powder measure. Both of these have the standard dillon press ball handle. The fourth picture is another 550, that appears to be complete but also have the dillon upgraded roller handle. Dillon rl1050's have been discontinued so it'll be harder to figure out a price. Searching around, especially here might give you some recent sales. In the completed section of ebay there is a rl1050 that took a best offer so we can't see the sale price, but assuming it was nearish the asking price it was listed at $2250. The Super 1050 is currently $2450 direct from dillon. The 550's are currently starting around $590, but a conversion kit can raise the price another ~$100. So the hard part is somewhat done, but you'll want to figure out what accessories/conversions you have there as they can significantly raise the price. The conversions are the shell plates on the presses. They will be labeled with a number on both the 1050's and the 550's. There maybe other small or large blue boxes in the area that might be additional conversions. On the 550's the conversions include small brass located pins, a powder measure expander and the shell plate itself. These are sold from dillon for roughly ~$90, but many many many of them are on back order. https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000217 On the 1050's the conversions are a lot more expensive, starting at $185. https://www.dillonprecision.com/s000214

You could probably take a picture of the overall bench and we could help identifying them. A picture of each press would be even better. Or you could just compare them against the photos on dillon's website. Dillon 550c Dillon 750 video and pictures comparing 750 vs 650 Dillon buyer guide with photos of their presses

I think some may be labeled on the linkages, but the easiest way to tell is a 550 is a manually index machine with 4 stations, the 650 is an auto indexed machine with 5 stations. On the 550 cycling the press handle will not move the cartridges to the next station (manual index). With the 650 cycling the press handle will move the cartridges to the next station (auto index). Or you can visit the dillon precision webpage and compare pictures. Or post some pictures here and someone will probably be able to identify everything.

Ok maybe I'm just being too ginger on pushing on the base pad.

Picked up a henning base pad kit with grams a few years back and haven't used it much until recently. Would like to remove the basepad to clean the follower, spring and mag body. I see the small allen bolt, but is there a trick to compressing the magazine spring to remove the base pad? Thank you.

I have a sp01 slide that was milled with the CZCustom plate system that I currently have an RMR sitting on. For some weird reason the left side screws on both the RMR and on the plate back themselves out after a few hundred rounds. I've tried blue loctite, I've tried purple loctite, cleaning with brake clean, cleaning with acetone and thus far the left side will still back out after 700ish rounds I've marked the heads of the screws so I can clearly see the rotation at least on the ones holding the RMR to the plate. At this point I'm about to try to use loctite red at least on the plate to slide screws. The blue loctite holds fairly well on the rmr to the plate, but I do have to keep an eye on the left screw after a few hundred rounds. In the past I've avoided red loctite for fear of stripping the screws or not being able to get the loctite to release, but it seems that most people just use a soldering iron to get the red loctite to release easily, alleviating some of my fears. Anyone else have this issue, any suggestions? Thanks guys and gals.

I'll quote and answer in your post. The biggest question mark is going to be how much you shoot, and what type of shooting. Unless you need to sell the 550 to fund the other presses, you might want to hold onto it for the 30-06.

Oddly I had this same issue with only the left side of the screws, both the actual plate screw and the screw that went into the slide itself. Use new screws, used acetone, cleaned the threads etc. Still couldn't get it to hold. Tried purple loktite still didn't work. Used brake cleaner, still no luck. Then one day I just took the used screw with dried loktite out and reapplied loktite to the screw and tightened down and then let it set for several days. Surprisingly this apparently has worked, across two matches and maybe 300+ rounds at this point. Before I could get the screws backing out after one stage and maybe 20 rounds.

124 cheaper bullets, but more powder, maybe slightly snappier recoil but faster return to sights. 147 bullets cost a bit more, but less powder, slower return to target. Realistically, it's going to be an individual choice on what to use. I can definitely tell there's a difference between 115, 124, and 147, I'm just not good enough of a shooter to be able to take advantage of it yet.

I kinda went through something similar. I don't 100% trust the dot yet and wanted to have a BUIS. I don't believe czc plate cut is forward enough to preserve the rear sight dovetail. There are a select few companies that can mill it, but then you lose the plate. There are a couple of options. Some RDS have a rear iron sight built in, the holosun 507k and the 407k have this for example. Take a look at the picture, you'll get the idea. When my holosun had an issue I finished a stage or two of steel with the built in BUIS, shot a bit low, but close enough. There are some options to add a BUIS to the RDS. For the RMR, and I believe the RMRcc you can add a IDRS sight that is added to the RMR. https://chpws.com/product/pmm-independent-drop-in-rear-sight-idrs-for-trijicon-rmr/ I've tried both of the options above, and currently am using the ISRS, the front sight is admittedly pretty tall in this setup, but works fine.

It's a square deal press, so only pistol calibers. The powder measure is an older design with the dual springs, some people actually prefer this setup. If you came out ahead it would certainly be worth giving Dillon a call to see if they would refurbish the press for you, they usually can do it very a very reasonable cost.