echotango Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Spent primer sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximis228 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Extra long decapping pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstagn Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) Mark7 manual states its up to the user to remove ratchet system?? Has anyone not removed it? Edited April 23, 2016 by jstagn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Mark7 manual states its up to the user to remove ratchet system?? Has anyone not remove it? Pretty sure you have to remove it or the jog up wouldn't work without completing the full stroke. I removed the arm instead of the latch as it was to tight for me to remove and was afraid to completely strip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 I remove the entire priming system and the ratchet when processing. I return the press to its original setup for loading. The ratchet is there for a reason. Just learn how to work around it. It's fairly easy to flip the trigger up if needed.... In all reality the purpose of the Mark 7 is to add it to the press without modification to the press itself... Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Ratchet is in storage since day one. It is annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansedgli Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Mark7 manual states its up to the user to remove ratchet system?? Has anyone not remove it? Pretty sure you have to remove it or the jog up wouldn't work without completing the full stroke.I removed the arm instead of the latch as it was to tight for me to remove and was afraid to completely strip it. Doesn't the arm activate the primer bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim42 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 What does M7 cost,for the 1050? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 $2525 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 ET, Have you gotten your replacement motor yet? M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 (edited) Nope. They were suppose to send me tracking info and a new label. Have not received anything. In the notes in my account it says to ship motor. That is it. I stated that I was upset and did not want to wait 8 days via ups. To please ship it quicker. We will see. Edited April 23, 2016 by echotango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 (edited) Wow, sorry to hear and a bit surprised. It's not what I experienced. Mk7 was pretty quick to jump on a solution and paid the overnight freight in my case. Not that it helps, or that I'm defending Mk7, but it appears they are building these in batches - hence folks waiting 5 weeks while others get theirs in 2, etc. Have to wonder if they just don't have the motor in hand to send. No matter though, stuff happens, but communication is key and you should be kept up to date every step of the way. Again, really sorry your having problems. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 23, 2016 by Want2BS8ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Mark7 manual states its up to the user to remove ratchet system?? Has anyone not remove it? Pretty sure you have to remove it or the jog up wouldn't work without completing the full stroke.I removed the arm instead of the latch as it was to tight for me to remove and was afraid to completely strip it. Doesn't the arm activate the primer bar? No, there is another arm that works the slide. You can see it in this picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I spoke with Anthony on the phone yesterday. He said the digital clutch is more sensitive at the lower speeds. I will try it slower and see if it works better. I will say doing so defeats the purpose..... He did say that they are writing different software. Maybe they can get it tuned in. When I bought the Mark 7, I was under the impression all this was figured out. Based on their YouTube videos and some independent reviews online, I thought this was good to go. I have processed and loaded successfully. The MAIN reason I went with this Autodrive over the others is the digital clutch. I just didn't want to wipe out lots of parts if a jam happened. They will happen. I also mentioned my idea of a optical 9mm /380 station... He said he would pass it off to R&D.. I also have another "cheap" idea for this that I am going to try... I will report back when i try it. Thanks, Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 The MAIN reason I went with this Autodrive over the others is the digital clutch. I just didn't want to wipe out lots of parts if a jam happened. They will happen. Thanks, Matt As I mentioned before, that feature is trivial, and can be added to other drives for peanuts. There is absolutely no justification for broken parts. Moreover - it does not require any new software. Frankly, I am surprised they are struggling with it. In their defense - setting the clutch is always going to be unpredictable, to some degree, due to great variation in brass. If you set it too sensitive, then you will not be able to deal with some tough brass, that requires more effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 (edited) The MAIN reason I went with this Autodrive over the others is the digital clutch. I just didn't want to wipe out lots of parts if a jam happened. They will happen. Thanks, Matt As I mentioned before, that feature is trivial, and can be added to other drives for peanuts. There is absolutely no justification for broken parts. Moreover - it does not require any new software. Frankly, I am surprised they are struggling with it. In their defense - setting the clutch is always going to be unpredictable, to some degree, due to great variation in brass. If you set it too sensitive, then you will not be able to deal with some tough brass, that requires more effort. I would actually prefer the machine to clutch out on difficult brass. Right now the clutch is set at 0 and it does not kick out with damaged brass on the shell plate. I'm with you on why they are struggling with it??? It has a feedback loop.... Just like tool pressure on a machining center....its reading it.Matt Edited April 25, 2016 by Labanaktis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Got my new motor today. Up and running. Very happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstagn Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 What settings are you using for 40 cal. lubed brass loading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 I would actually prefer the machine to clutch out on difficult brass. Right now the clutch is set at 0 and it does not kick out with damaged brass on the shell plate. I'm with you on why they are struggling with it??? It has a feedback loop.... Just like tool pressure on a machining center....its reading it. Matt Uhhh... yeah. Clutch setting zero: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Mine stops at the bottom of the stroke on 0 with 9mm. Using 5 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 I learned an important lesson, do not calibrate with brass on the plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Wondering if this is an issue with the Pro version only... MBF started double dropping (I've since dialed it in) and had to stop the press myself. Didn't appear to have any clutch action at all. The seating/crimping die caused a fair amount of damage to that loose bullet. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) I bent 2 decapping pins and 10pcs of brass learning. I had a steel pin in one of of brass(2nd time ever) and one unpside down pc of brass. Will lighten the clutch. I think I got it down now. Edited April 26, 2016 by echotango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 I'm having a problem of the bras not being square or tight on the shell plate. The brass csn be wiggled right out of the place and some times just falls over. This starting happening after about 1k rounds or so. Not a Mark 7 issue but a Dillon as it does it even by cycling by hand or single cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansedgli Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 You got the right blue buttons in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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