Foxbat Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 I would really like to see a optical primer check. Electrical engineering is not my thing. It would at least tell you if your not getting primers if there is a hang up in the mechanical system. I usually just look up every now and then to see if the primer rod is lowering ... Optical would be nice thou. Another idea.... When case processing for 9mm.... How about a optics or die that could detect the height difference of 9mm vs 380 ? Matt There is no limit to what kind of sensors could be added to the machine, once you have the entryway into the system. Either the computer (as in Mark 7), or a simple VFD have such inputs. In my personal experience, the "sucked in primer" sensor is not really needed, my press stops when this happens - too much resistance in the ram. Perhaps the Mark 7 does so too. The .380 detection can also be done easily with the computer, but my fear usually is with making things way too complicated - too many sensors, too many wires, and soon your press is unrecognizable and impossible to service. If I was loading .45's, I would definitely look into making the small primer detection sensor... I think someone here has already demonstrated such a device. I think "out of bullets" sensor is #2 in importance, after the "low primers" one. I once had about 50 cases, with powder but no bullets, dump into the bin, and it was not pretty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 (edited) One thing they (and other makers) should look at is the brace. After I added the brace, connecting the loader to the motor housing, it became noticeably smoother and less prone to any jams. As it is, the whole structure is way too flexible. Can you elaborate on this "brace", please? Here is the pic. Normally there is too much flex in the press tower, and that flex affects the primer insertion. The brace connects the press to the motor housing. Edited April 20, 2016 by Foxbat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashAndPoof Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Does the Mark 7 make it even harder to do caliber changes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 (edited) Here is my brace. It is more to keep the bullet feeder stable. Edited April 20, 2016 by echotango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Does the Mark 7 make it even harder to do caliber changes? No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Does anyone know what part of the Dillon 1050 you remove to remove the ratching system for the Mark 7? The video just says to remove it and looks like it's one screw, but never shows what screw or what is actually removed. I assume it's part number 13376 by removing screw 13328, but I can't seem to break it loose. I called Dillon and Mark 7 will no explanation of what to remove. Mark 7 is going to call me back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 I sure hope it's not this screw, as it seems to be torqued down and is stripping the Dillon Allen wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 This is the correct part, and yes, it is tight, but with a GOOD wrench can be done. A few words on Jog Up function. It is an important, but dangerous function, as clearly stated in the Mark 7 manual. Kudos to them for spending that much space on it. Here's the personal experience, directly related to the dangers of that function, and on removing the ratchet. During my early days with the drive I managed to make the mistake that they describe - I jogged the press up too high, and as result the round received a double charge. Long story short - a beautiful, nearly new HK P30 became a pile of parts, spread on the range's floor. Fortunately, there was no injury, just a minor shock - my wife was shooting it. We ended up paying about $300 total for new frame and a couple other parts. Bottom line - be not just careful, but VERY, VERY careful using that function. You don't need to go up all the way to reset the powder measure, and as result to get the double charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just talked with Mark 7, they confirmed that is the correct part. I stripped the Dillon Allen wrench and maybe the screw itself. I removed the ratching arm instead, and that seemed to do the trick. Does anyone else's motor make noise after the calibration and sometimes after the cycle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 BTW, you don't really need to remove the ratchet to disable it, you can simply torque the adjustment screw all that way, that will stop it from moving. It is the screw on the other side of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Does anyone else's motor make noise after the calibration and sometimes after the cycle? I wish I knew. My motor came DOA. Have to wait for a new one. Pretty pissed and disappointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Does anyone else's motor make noise after the calibration and sometimes after the cycle? I wish I knew. My motor came DOA. Have to wait for a new one. Pretty pissed and disappointed. Wow! I would be pissed too... Anthony told the motor noise is normal, it just means that the motor is seeing some time of resistance and it is holding its place against the pressure. He said it is the most common question they are asked and are going to add something to the manual or a sticker on the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just talked with Mark 7, they confirmed that is the correct part. I stripped the Dillon Allen wrench and maybe the screw itself. I removed the ratching arm instead, and that seemed to do the trick. Does anyone else's motor make noise after the calibration and sometimes after the cycle? mine was so tight I had to use a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut a slot in it for a flat head screwdriver. If you are talking about the moaning kind of sound, that is because the clutch is still engaged. Hit "stop" twice and it will disengage the motor and the sound will stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Another idea.... When case processing for 9mm.... How about a optics or die that could detect the height difference of 9mm vs 380 ? Matt x2 ! x3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Another idea.... When case processing for 9mm.... How about a optics or die that could detect the height difference of 9mm vs 380 ? Matt x2 ! x3 Shouldn't really need this. With a bullet sensor, the press should stop since you shouldn't get a bullet drop with the shorter 380 case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Got it up and running brass prep for 556/223. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) Kinda need it.... I have had a few fling out after getting the powder drop! 4 grains is not a lot, but it still needs to be cleaned up. The primers are partially sticking out to....they might fall out and cause a shell plate jam... I should also mention these cases were processed to. It didn't catch them. Currently there is no way to catch them. Matt Edited April 22, 2016 by Labanaktis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) Got it up and running brass prep for 556/223. http://youtu.be/tl-ru0rC40c NICE! Have you tried the top and bottom dwells yet? Edited April 22, 2016 by Labanaktis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Got it up and running brass prep for 556/223. http://youtu.be/tl-ru0rC40c NICE! Have you tried the top and bottom dwells yet? Yeah, I'm still playing with and tweeking with the timing. I'm surprised how much play there is in the tool head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Shouldn't really need this. With a bullet sensor, the press should stop since you shouldn't get a bullet drop with the shorter 380 case. Would be nice for processing brass though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 ...is that little wiggle in the tool head at the top of the stroke normal? I've tried loosening the bolt, cycling a couple of times and tightening with the tool head down as Dillon recommends, but haven't been able to eliminate it entirely. Had the 1050 running buttery smooth before mounting it on the Mark 7, but knocked something out of whack, because it is anything but smooth now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 that wiggle happens with all 4 of my presses, so I'm going to say it's normal. I saw someone post a link to another company that sells a rod that replaces the big spring at the back, apparently the rod (with a bushing) keeps the toolhead better aligned. Anyone tried one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labanaktis Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 https://lvl10i.com/products/specialty-guide-rod-for-dillon-1050 This is the first I have heard about these. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Want2BS8ed Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Thanks for the heads-up! Must be new. I purchased my shell plate bearing kit and their bin support bracket a few weeks ago (both nice pieces and fast shipping). I've ordered one, but I'll play around this weekend. Will be interesting to see how the Mark 7 runs without the spring assist. Thanks for putting my concerns to rest and for the link. Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 I'm using a lee universal decapping die and every so often I get a jam from the primer not being punched out all the way. I have adjust the decapping pin as far down as I believe it will go. Anything else I can do to prevent this from happening? That really seems to be my only issue so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now