Slide Cut ideas/opinions

[Nickb45]

I just built a 6" short dust cover, bushing barrel 2011. It shoots great, recoil seems very soft. When I first built it I as planning on just a tri-top, then after I got it together and shot it, I thought I don't need any cuts... that was until I shot my buddies gun (set up almost identical to mine, its where I got the bug for Limited), his has slide cuts, mine doesn't. Recoil feels really similar, but his transitions a lot better than mine. So I'm back to wanting to cut the slide up. This is what I came up with in SolidWorks.

Anyone see any major issues with these cuts? I'm new to Limited and new to lightening slides (not new to machining)

[CHA-LEE]

I would avoid putting excessive cuts in the guide rod channel as that portion of the slide takes the brunt of the rearward impact force into the frame every time the slide cycles.

If you want to change the transitioning "Feel" of the gun that is usually done better by changing the unsprung weight and it can be done far cheaper than hacking on the slide. For example, try an aluminum Guide Rod and Plastic Main Spring Housing. Swapping both of those things can take several ounces out of the gun and make it "Feel" lighter in your hand. Not to mention they are cheap to try and it can be reversed if you don't like it. Once you start hacking on the slide its a done deal unless you replace the slide.

[lcs]

I would avoid putting excessive cuts in the guide rod channel as that portion of the slide takes the brunt of the rearward impact force into the frame every time the slide cycles.

If you want to change the transitioning "Feel" of the gun that is usually done better by changing the unsprung weight and it can be done far cheaper than hacking on the slide. For example, try an aluminum Guide Rod and Plastic Main Spring Housing. Swapping both of those things can take several ounces out of the gun and make it "Feel" lighter in your hand. Not to mention they are cheap to try and it can be reversed if you don't like it. Once you start hacking on the slide its a done deal unless you replace the slide.

Excellent info!

[Nickb45]

Thanks for the info, I'm looking to take a little weight off the muzzle end, that's the reason for the slide cuts.

I'm already running a GI style guide rod.

I took the cuts out of the spring channel, they were only worth about .4 ounces.

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[kneelingatlas]

CHA-LEE taught me it's best to take equal amounts of weight from the front and rear of the slide: Real testing and feedback on Slide Lightening

This was the first slide I ever had cut up, 1.8oz all from the front:

I felt it increased the muzzle flip, later I did this one with weight taken from the front and rear which turned out much better:

Edited March 1, 2016 by kneelingatlas

[Nickb45]

Thank you for posting that thread. Some interesting information. I am going to have to go out and shoot both guns again.

My buddies has a cut in the spring channel, and some holes in the top radii.

I will have to weigh his slide and mine.

Personally I prefer the cleaner look of no holes.

If his feels better than mine after close examination, maybe I will look into just tri-topping it and maybe some internal lightening. That should keep the weight reduction pretty balanced.

On a side note, SolidWorks says a stock 6" 1911 slide is 14 some ounces.

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[troupe]

If your smith can make a delrin guide rod, it will help even more. We used to have them back in the day. Very lite, slick, and cheap.

[Nickb45]

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[Nickb45]

If your smith can make a delrin guide rod, it will help even more. We used to have them back in the day. Very lite, slick, and cheap.

Im running a GI guide rod. I have a strong dislike for anything full length.

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[CHA-LEE]

The muzzle light "Feel" you are trying to achieve is 100% personal preference. You can spend a lot of money and waste a lot of time trying to find a "Magical" setup.

One thing you may want to consider before hacking on anything is actually proving if a lighter gun makes any difference in your shooting performance. Setup some drills that test aggressive wide transitions and shoot them with your gun and your buddies gun. Then score the targets and tally the on target hits to see which one is actually better or not.

Most people think that a gun setup "Feels Good" is the best tool for the job, when that is not always the case. Are you building a race car to maximize performance or a Cadillac to take on a Sunday drive? The "Feel" of those two cars are not going to be the same.

[kneelingatlas]

Personally I prefer the cleaner look of no holes.

How about some Gans style flats?

[Nickb45]

The muzzle light "Feel" you are trying to achieve is 100% personal preference. You can spend a lot of money and waste a lot of time trying to find a "Magical" setup.

One thing you may want to consider before hacking on anything is actually proving if a lighter gun makes any difference in your shooting performance. Setup some drills that test aggressive wide transitions and shoot them with your gun and your buddies gun. Then score the targets and tally the on target hits to see which one is actually better or not.

Most people think that a gun setup "Feels Good" is the best tool for the job, when that is not always the case. Are you building a race car to maximize performance or a Cadillac to take on a Sunday drive? The "Feel" of those two cars are not going to be the same.

That is what I was planning on doing before I throw my slide in the vice. Some wide transitions as well as some longer distance bill drills to see how the sights track on each, compare times/hits on all drills.

And Cadillac CTS-V, race car/grocery getter. Haha

I appreciate the input, thank you!

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[Steelix]

I like the look of the holes in first post, that's how I want my next open gun to look, maybe not in the guide rod channel though. You just need to take soon off the back of the slide to balance it out.

[EngineerEli]

You say you're not new to machining, do you have direct access to a mill? Maybe consider doing the cuts a few at a time and stop when you like the feel and performance. Start with the panel cut, then go back and do some of the through cuts, then go back and do any more that you find necessary, or whatever order you decide.

[darkvibe]

Is the gun already tri-topped?

[Nickb45]

Yes I have easy access to a mill.

The slide is just flat topped right now.

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[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: Tri-top the slide and then test it to see if it is light enough for you. I like my 6" slides to balance like a 5" flat topped slide. Leave the reverse plug tunnel last and leave enough meat so it will not crack there. Thanks, Eric

[2011BLDR]

Be careful turning a flat top in to a tri- top, I did this on 2 Caspian slides. The result is a vary light slide however on the 6” I did the slide stretched around the breach face area to the point that a case couldn’t be held on with any amount of extractor tuning or even a AFTEC. This was after about 120,000 rounds ( 5 -7 seasons).The thickness of the 3 flats is critical STI and SVI have engineered that in to their tri- top’s. I ended up replacing the slide with a STI tri- top and doing the lightening as:

· SVI accelerator style cuts
· 5” guide rod and plug
· Cut back of the spring tunnel

Te second gun went to a 3Gun shooter that will see a slower round count accumulation spred over a longer time frame with full disclosure on the issue.

Pic of the lightening attached.

Edited March 2, 2016 by 2011BLDR

[2011BLDR]

On my 6" 9mm for 3gun i used a SVI tri- toped slide with:

• Front and rear accelerator cuts
• .045" removed from the sides from the front accelerator cut forward (you must not have the internal bushing cuts done on a slide to do this)
• 5” guide rod and plug
• Cut back of the spring tunnel

Pic of the lightening attached.

Edited March 2, 2016 by 2011BLDR

[EclipseDS]

How much weight reduction can one expect from tri-topping?

I have a slide with cuts. Wondering if tri-topping makes sense. Thanks.

[Nickb45]

The the way I drew it, leaving small radius on the top and the sides (radius from the original round top). On a 6" slide SolidWorks says .7oz. That was with it already flat topped.

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[Nickb45]

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[EclipseDS]

The the way I drew it, leaving small radius on the top and the sides (radius from the original round top). On a 6" slide SolidWorks says .7oz. That was with it already flat topped.

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Thanks. So, about an ounce then, for a standard slide.

[Nickb45]

The the way I drew it, leaving small radius on the top and the sides (radius from the original round top). On a 6" slide SolidWorks says .7oz. That was with it already flat topped.

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Thanks. So, about an ounce then, for a standard slide.

According to SW, weights for a stainless 5" slide are:

bare 12.48

Flat top 12.336

Tri top 11.856

6" slide:

Bare 14.368

Flat top 14.209

Tri top 13.728

All weights in Oz.

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[2011BLDR]

The problem when discussing slide weights is what is being left out of the total picture. Vary hard to compare weights when you do not know what the exact configuration was when it was weighed. For me I factor in everything that needs to be installed to function and move:

· Sights

· Firing pin and spring

· Firing pin stop

· Extractor

· Recoil spring guide plug

· Bushing ( if needed , not a issue with a bull barrel)

If I make a change, I do not want to have to strip everything out of the slide to get a new weight. Leaving your bushing and Recoil spring guide plug out will drastically change the quoted weight.

Edited March 2, 2016 by 2011BLDR