Dillon 1050 as beginner to reloading?

[safeactionjackson]

I think he's saying you have a lot to learn, and starting with a s1050 is probably not in your best interest

Could a noob start on one..... probably...... but it is a fairly sophisticated press... which would more than likely be compounded by a new reloaders lack of experience. Obviously adding a Mark 7 would add an additional layer, one that I can't yet speak to sadly

Nothing wrong with starting on a simpler press, then upgraded later

~g

[kneelingatlas]

On scales: if you drop a charge, weigh it, adjust, repeat you will become frustrated quickly and spend a lot of time chasing your tail. Here's what I do: when I put powder in the hopper, I remove the failsafe rod, hold a short cup under the powder funnel and manually cycle 15-20 charges; I then dump that powder back in the hopper and manually drop ten charges, weigh, adjust, repeat. Once you're getting a ten round average of charges you increase the effectiveness of your scale tenfold and mitigate the effects of any inconsistencies. I used an RCBS beam scale and it works great.

In regards to reloading presses: I learned to reload on a friend's 550, bought my own 650 and recently picked up a used autodrive 1050; if I didn't have 3 1/2 years reloading experience I think I would be lost with a 1050. Dillon machines hold their value very well, so trading up is relatively cheap. Whatever you choose I recommend you find a local reloading mentor. You can offer to trade components for reloading lessons and offer chrank the handle for both of you. The most important thing is trade value for value, don't think you're entitled to instruction, but at the same time don't assume you have nothing to offer

[safeactionjackson]

Whatever you choose I recommend you find a local reloading mentor.

+1

~g

[kevin c]

Learning reloading is not just learning how to run your press.

Do take the time to learn how to work up good, safe loads. Do take the time to learn scrupulous safety and quality control habits as you load (the more sophisticated the press, the more that can go wrong. The more that can go wrong, the more distracted you can get and the more slip ups can happen).

If you aren't careful, the least that can happen is that you can load an awful lot of poor quality ammo in a hurry. More concerning is the potential of injury during the reloading process or in using any bad ammunition produced.

[BeerBaron]

1050 does come with low primer sensor (all the dillon progressives do).

none of them come with the powder check sensor (or the low powder sensor for the powder hopper). I don't feel either of those are really useful. I had the powder check system on my first 650. don't use one these days and don't miss it at all. bear in mind it uses up a station on the press too.

you can get a decent enough scale cheaply. the gemini AWS 20 is a popular scale for reloaders and very cheap (less than $30 from memory).

weight is really only useful to use book loads or other published loads to get you a starting point. after that you use it occaisionally to check your drop is still consistent but remember the powder drops all work by powder volume not weight. and what really matters is if they are achieving the velocity you desire in the particular gun you're using.

accuracy on dillon measures and most other progressive measures is about +/-0.1gn so a load at 3.5gn will likely drop anywhere from 3.4-3.6gn which is generally not a big deal unless you're pushing the boundaries of a particular load.

[trgt]

Do the 1050 with Mr Bullet Feeder and some LED lighting, and add the Mark 7 later. The problem with doing learning curve for both at the same time is that you won't easily know if you are having Dillon issue or Mark 7 issue.

But do go visit a friend with a 1050 so you can get calibrated on the whole process, will make running yours a lot easier.

What LED lighting did you use?

For the 1050 I just went to Home Depot and attached a LED strip to the case feeder stand facing the dies, and also got a small led desk light there to illuminate other side of press.

[TJART]

My first batch of reloading was not without error; careless, at that. I made myself pull all 200 rounds w the kinetic just so I could teach myself a lesson. I had to wrap the handle in duct tape, it was wearing my hand so bad. Lol

OP, all I'm saying is, a lot can go wrong, and we all here want you to be safe and ENJOY reloading. We don't want you to come back and say the press is garbage, or gun problems, etc. Every single person here will help you no matter how many questions you have.

Do you know what projectiles you're using? What do your gun(s) plunk with them? Do you know the subtraction formula for plunk test? Do you know OAL differences between RN, FP, etc.? Do you know what bell and crimp to run with specific projectiles? Do you have a ladder planned to work loads?

See, and we haven't even sat down to RUN the press yet. You surely can run a 1050, but you're up against a potentially catastrophic learning curve. UNLESS, as KA mentioned, you have a mentor the can be with you... and read this part a couple times, over and over --> every single step of the way.

[Miranda]

oh man!

this is a GREAT thread!

full of intrigue, mystery and a plot.

Hi GPP,

among the many things reloading may be...

reloading is aslo a means to an end --> the AMMO.

there are a lot of faces to the task of making ammo.

one of the biggest concerns is avoiding hurting yourself and others

with --> bad ammo <--.

as far as I can tell, you are going to get an automated reloading machine.

If you can swing that purchase with ease, then ALSO get a lee 4 hole turret press.

Use the turret to learn to build ammo that you trust.

try out your ammo to see what has to be done to get good results.

If you make a a hundred rounds of over charged ammo.

you can afford to throw it away... if you make 2000 rounds of bad ammo...

well. maybe you can afford to toss that too, but it still a waste.

here are a few of the things that can go wrong with small mis-ajustments

primers not fully seated, too much and too little crimp, COL too long and too short

too much powder and too little.

right now we are mostly discussing making just ammo that will not cause major problems.

when you want accuracy, the question is more a matter of precision from round to round

and matching your powder and bullets and cases to your pistol or rifle.

I think most here want you to get the automated 1050, we love the videos of them.

you are getting advice that is "get to know how to make ammo"

because the 1050 can make a lot of mistakes in an hour and you may not realize it .

Then we lose you, or your hand, or some one near to you.

... BTW...

the advice to find some one who has reloaded for a few years is a darned good idea.

Share the videos when you have your machine going!

miranda

Edited March 4, 2016 by Miranda

[rtp]

First off, I appreciate all of the tips and advice everyone.

I have a couple of other questions I hope you will help me with...

So I watched some videos on how the 1050 operates and two things that look very handy are the powder check alarm and the primer system early warning. Do you know if these come with the Dillon S 1050? Or are they optional accessories? The website doesn't say either way but does show them in the photos.

I also realized that I don't have a decent scale for verifying powder load. I know that I want to go with an electronic scale for ease of use. And from looking at them online I am guessing that the trick is just to get close with the weight and then use standard deviation of velocity instead of being meticulous with a scale. But just to be sure I did not come to the wrong conclusion... here are a couple of questions about reloading scales:

Since I've never reloaded before I am not familiar with how precise the powder charge needs to be as far as accuracy is concerned. Obviously the longer the range the more important it becomes but I am curious about general ballpark. How precise is the powder drop on a progressive press like the 1050? I've noticed that all of the reloading scales I am finding on the internet are advertised as +/- 0.1 grain and the scales are typically only large enough for one powder tray. A lot of the reloading recipes I've read give their powder load as XX.X grains (i.e. 04.6 or 26.4). So am I looking at the wrong scales? For the 1/10 grain recipe measurement to be meaningful the scale used would need to be +/- 0.01 or either be able to measure many powder trays at once to minimize the error such that the weight can be averaged so that the significant digits can be taken as reliable. Can anyone provide some guidance here?

Second question about scales... some come with or offer optional calibration weights. But one thing I've noticed is that none of the scales seem to advertise a calibration interface. Are you guys using a calibration formula manually after taking the reading or is the digital calibration interface a given that doesn't need to be advertised?

1. How many reloading books do you have and have read end to end so far? If < 2, go do that first.

2. A 1050 + auto-drive is a huge mistake for most people as a first press. A turret is OK, as are some progressives if someone is truly cautious and careful, and starts loading 1 round at a time. Expecting to jump into an automated system with no prior experience is just a recipe for disaster, IMO. Maybe it will 'only' be thousands of rounds loaded that don't cycle your gun, maybe it will be only one of a thousand loaded too hot that makes the difference. Learn to reload before automation.

Scales - Pick up an RCBS 505, 1010, or an electronic like the Gempro 250 (or higher $ - the electronics aren't all they're expected to be until you get into some $$).

[rtp]

In regards to reloading presses: I learned to reload on a friend's 550, bought my own 650 and recently picked up a used autodrive 1050; if I didn't have 3 1/2 years reloading experience I think I would be lost with a 1050. Dillon machines hold their value very well, so trading up is relatively cheap. Whatever you choose I recommend you find a local reloading mentor. You can offer to trade components for reloading lessons and offer chrank the handle for both of you. The most important thing is trade value for value, don't think you're entitled to instruction, but at the same time don't assume you have nothing to offer

OP - are you starting to see a trend yet? Sure, some who have been loading for a while and now (rarely have people started on a 1050, let alone an automated one) own a 1050 may be forgetting what their first reloading sessions were like, but you've also got a good # of experienced reloaders telling you - no way in hell.

Pick up a Lee Classic Cast Turret, Dillon 550 or LnL AP if you 'must' be progressive...and learn how to reload (let's say 10K flawless rounds as a good 'target') before evaluating (and thinking about what you've learned) before moving on from there.

[Boxerglocker]

I would not necessarily steer the OP away from starting on any particular press even a XL650. If you have the aptitude and mechanical inclination to learn. It's possible especially if you stick with one caliber to start.

A Mark 7 automated Super 1050? No chance I would recommend that. I own both and had a very high degree of mechanical experience working in the aviation industry getting started in reloading. I would have never started on a Super 1050 a XL650 yes.

Edited March 6, 2016 by Boxerglocker

[Ray_Z]

Wow thanks everyone for the replies... that was fast. I was a little nervous after seeing articles explicitly stating they wouldn't recommend a 1050 for someone who isn't al ready a seasoned reloader. I think I'll try one out.

Sorry to rain on your parade but before you learn automation you need to learn the fundamentals. Start with a single station press like the rock chucker. Get the feel of the different stations. Learn to use the books and build your loads from there. Then, after you've loaded 4000-5000 rounds, talked to a lot of more experienced loaders, made a few mistakes, and learned the quirks each caliber has then think about going into production.

Everybody dreams of getting a 1050. Some can afford it and some of us can only dream. I've been using my 650 for the better part of 15 years. It's great that you can afford it, but learn the fundamentals first.

[gpp]

How many reloading books do you have

If you are thinking of any in particular I would appreciate the titles.

OP, all I'm saying is, a lot can go wrong, and we all here want you to be safe and ENJOY reloading.

Much appreciated

Then we lose you, or your hand, or some one near to you.

Granted, that would be bad...

recently picked up a used autodrive 1050; if I didn't have 3 1/2 years reloading experience I think I would be lost with a 1050

A Mark 7 automated Super 1050? No chance I would recommend that. I own both

Fair enough

Sorry to rain on your parade

You're not really raining on my parade. That is why I posted the question.

OP - are you starting to see a trend yet?

learn how to reload (let's say 10K flawless rounds as a good 'target') before evaluating (and thinking about what you've learned) before moving on from there.

Yeah. Not going to hook up an auto drive for awhile. They appear to be on back order right now anyways unfortunately. I guess that lets me run the powder level check which will help with the safety factor until I get the flawless 10K badge.

[njl]

I've never used a 1050, so maybe I'm not qualified to comment, but I agree with those who say a 1050 (particularly with automation) as your first press is insane. I disagree with those who say to start with a single stage. I think if you do a little research (reading, video watching), starting with any of Dillon's lower models (SDB, 550, 650) is reasonable...just don't expect to get the advertised production rate on day one (if ever). If you want ammo, can afford to start out with an automated 1050, but don't want to put in any time learning the basics, you're probably better off buying factory ammo or finding a small commercial reloader who can load custom ammo to your requested specifications.

[Slotbike]

How many reloading books do you have

If you are thinking of any in particular I would appreciate the titles.

OP, all I'm saying is, a lot can go wrong, and we all here want you to be safe and ENJOY reloading.

Much appreciated

Then we lose you, or your hand, or some one near to you.

Granted, that would be bad...

recently picked up a used autodrive 1050; if I didn't have 3 1/2 years reloading experience I think I would be lost with a 1050

A Mark 7 automated Super 1050? No chance I would recommend that. I own both

Fair enough

Sorry to rain on your parade

You're not really raining on my parade. That is why I posted the question.

OP - are you starting to see a trend yet?

learn how to reload (let's say 10K flawless rounds as a good 'target') before evaluating (and thinking about what you've learned) before moving on from there.

Yeah. Not going to hook up an auto drive for awhile. They appear to be on back order right now anyways unfortunately. I guess that lets me run the powder level check which will help with the safety factor until I get the flawless 10K badge.

I use an RCBS lockout die on both my 1050's as well as on my 650 for high production pistol ammo (.9mm, .40S&W and .45ACP) It's easy to set up, doesn't have that annoying buzzer and.......if for some crazy reason you have a "no powder" or "double charge" drop, it just locks the press. There is no way of ignoring it, not hearing it/recognizing it, etc.

G

Edited March 6, 2016 by Slotbike

[rtp]

How many reloading books do you have

If you are thinking of any in particular I would appreciate the titles.

Sure - ABCs of reloading + Lyman's latest. Both have good sections on the fundamentals of reloading/the why and how, etc., that are relevant no matter which press you choose.

If you plan to load a lot of Hornady, their latest book is pretty good as well, while you can use online resources + various mfgr 'mini-magazines' for additional or confirming powder charges for specific bullets.

e.g. if buying powder (or anything else) from Powder Valley, you can pick up a printed mag across Hodgdon/Winchester/IMR, VV, Alliant and others for 1cent each added to the order. They don't replace the loading books, but often have info on updated powders + another load reference.

[gpp]

If you want ammo, can afford to start out with an automated 1050, but don't want to put in any time learning the basics, you're probably better off buying factory ammo or finding a small commercial reloader who can load custom ammo to your requested specifications.

That really isn't a fair/accurate paraphrase of my question or replies thus far

[Slotbike]

If you want ammo, can afford to start out with an automated 1050, but don't want to put in any time learning the basics, you're probably better off buying factory ammo or finding a small commercial reloader who can load custom ammo to your requested specifications.

That really isn't a fair/accurate paraphrase of my question or replies thus far

Although I agree that it may not be a fair comment......the 1050, with all the trimmings and case cleaning apparatus, to get started, is going to approach the $2500.00 range. Then, add in the auto drive and all the other stuff and you are looking at $4000.00 plus, to get started. AND, that doesn't include the powder, primers and projectiles (assuming you already have brass), a bench, cabinets, storage bins etc. I have a ton of money invested in my reloading room and equipment, so, I understand the costs involved. Reloading, to me is a completely different hobby which I enjoy as much, if not more, than shooting. If you figure the costs for the equipment that you want, and divide it by the cost of the ammo you shoot and, the amount of ammo that you shoot.......it may be more cost/time effective to just find a commercial reloader and buy a ton of bulk ammo, loaded to your specs. I think that is what the above comment may have been alluding too, although I didn't say it so, I am just guessing. There are a lot of people here just trying to help, me included!

Edited March 6, 2016 by Slotbike

[njl]

You don't even know if you're going to like or have the patience for reloading, so why jump in with several thousand $ invested in a commercial grade machine when you could find out if its for you for a fraction of that with a smaller/slower press that will let you learn the basics at a more reasonable pace?

AFAIK, all of Dillon's presses come with the primer warning buzzer. I found it to be an annoyance and stopped using mine several years ago. I can see when I'm out of primers. My 550 doesn't have the stations to accommodate a powder check die, but with a simple LED lighting installation, I can easily see the powder in all but the longest pistol cases.

You say you want a digital scale...I did too when I started. I eventually realized it was not reliable and bought a beam scale. I use both (digital for quick checks, beam to verify the digital isn't off). My digital (a Lyman) came with a single calibration weight. The procedure for calibrating it is, hold the cal button until the scale's display says its in calibration mode. Put the calibration weight on the scale. Push the cal button again. Now the scale is calibrated...for a while. I assume other digitals calibrate similarly. AFAIK, there's no calibrating a beam scale...just zero adjustment / leveling.

For loading 9mm, I'm not sure the 1050 really even has any advantage over a 650. The only thing I can think of is the 1050 can be setup to swage the primer pockets, and 9mm NT ammo (if you have or pickup brass from non-toxic primer ammo) tends to be crimped, so these won't easily accept a new primer on the first reloading / until they've been swaged or reamed.

[Slotbike]

You don't even know if you're going to like or have the patience for reloading, so why jump in with several thousand $ invested in a commercial grade machine when you could find out if its for you for a fraction of that with a smaller/slower press that will let you learn the basics at a more reasonable pace?

AFAIK, all of Dillon's presses come with the primer warning buzzer. I found it to be an annoyance and stopped using mine several years ago. I can see when I'm out of primers. My 550 doesn't have the stations to accommodate a powder check die, but with a simple LED lighting installation, I can easily see the powder in all but the longest pistol cases.

You say you want a digital scale...I did too when I started. I eventually realized it was not reliable and bought a beam scale. I use both (digital for quick checks, beam to verify the digital isn't off). My digital (a Lyman) came with a single calibration weight. The procedure for calibrating it is, hold the cal button until the scale's display says its in calibration mode. Put the calibration weight on the scale. Push the cal button again. Now the scale is calibrated...for a while. I assume other digitals calibrate similarly. AFAIK, there's no calibrating a beam scale...just zero adjustment / leveling.

For loading 9mm, I'm not sure the 1050 really even has any advantage over a 650. The only thing I can think of is the 1050 can be setup to swage the primer pockets, and 9mm NT ammo (if you have or pickup brass from non-toxic primer ammo) tends to be crimped, so these won't easily accept a new primer on the first reloading / until they've been swaged or reamed.

I use an RCBS Chargemaster and it is reasonably very accurate. I'm not endorsing RCBS as I'm generally not a fan of that company but, the scale isn't bad. My friend has a Lyman digital and it is "NEVER" accurate. It drifts constantly and is basically useless!

As far as the 1050 for .9mm..........I use one of my 1050's for .9mm for just the reason that you mention. The occasional crimped primer pocket!

Edited March 6, 2016 by Slotbike

[RDA]

I think if you are asking the question, it probably isn't the right fit for you to get started.

[Beastly]

3 years ago I couldn't spell reloading. I started with a 550, added a 1050, then a Mr. Bullet Feeder, the a Mark 7 autoloader. I load 9mm and do 223 brass processing and reloading on the 1050. Plus another 1/2 dozen additional calibers on the 550.

Along the way I built a custom shop/reloading room, read a half dozen books, untold thousands of internet threads. I process brass in a cement mixer and work up loads using a chronograph and a home-build bullet trap in my garage next to the reloading room.

I put a LOT of time and $ into this. Start with a 1050? Maybe, IF you have the inclination and preferably a local mentor. I had no mentor, just me, books, the internet and an insatiable desire to learn and experiment.

My presses tok a lot of time and TLC to get them runnign the way I want and to keep the running as things change, parts wear or break, adjustments get bumped, components change, or whatever. I had and MET a goal of loading 1000 rounds of 9mm in 30 minutes by hand on a 1050/Mr. Bulet Feeder to make sure the press and my processes were clean before I EVER considered automation. And even then I had no inclination to automate with anything less than a top-of-the-line Mark 7.

Automated 1050 to start? Chuckle. Great way to (a) go crazy with problems and ( load a LOT of crap ammo in a hurry. Better make sure you are REALLY REALLY confident in what you load before you attempt start loading a lot of it.

[rdinga]

I am teaching a new apprentice how to reload. i have a pair of single stage setups, a redding t7, Dillon 550 and Dillon 1050. In a short time I had him using factory primed brass on the 550, turning out match grade ammo. HE may not have understood all the moving parts and science of set up. But he very quickly learned using this bullet and that powder in the new brass produced better ammo than he was buying at the store for more money. The he danced a few steps with the 1050. He has joined the group that only reloads their ammo from now own.

[John Boy]

I never had, or looked for a mentor.

I didn't start with a 1050 though

Whatever you choose I recommend you find a local reloading mentor.

+1

~g

[XL6504ME]

I started with a 650 and had only a couple of minor issues that I figured out on my own. I sold it 15 years ago because I could Buy the 9 mm cheaper at gun shows then messing with the press and all the things that come with it. Now since .357 sig ammo is crazy high locally I just bought a new 650 to start reloading again.

If I had the extra dough I would have got a 1050 and probably will in the future. Having a versatile 650 and a 1050 would be the best of both worlds IMO.

I guess it depends on how mechanically inclined a person truly is.