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My bench is a Craftsman and I believe it is 41". I am 5'9" and stand while reloading. I have 2 1050's on it! G

Are you looking for this to burn?

Well....you have my 2-1050's, 650 and 550 beat! Glad that there are others out there that are worse than me, lol.....makes me look good! Awesome setup brother! G

If you load a lot, it's a great idea.......I have 2-1050's, a 650 and a 550. The 1050's are dedicated to .45ACP on one and .9mm on the other. The 650 is set up for small primer and the 550 for large primer. I use those two presses to load for the other 11 caliber's that I shoot less of. G

Yup.....that^ Done it with Titegroup, W231/HP38 and Bullseye!

HP-38 is popping up. Same exact powder as 231, different label.

I use an RCBS Chargemaster and it is reasonably very accurate. I'm not endorsing RCBS as I'm generally not a fan of that company but, the scale isn't bad. My friend has a Lyman digital and it is "NEVER" accurate. It drifts constantly and is basically useless!As far as the 1050 for .9mm..........I use one of my 1050's for .9mm for just the reason that you mention. The occasional crimped primer pocket!

That really isn't a fair/accurate paraphrase of my question or replies thus far Although I agree that it may not be a fair comment......the 1050, with all the trimmings and case cleaning apparatus, to get started, is going to approach the $2500.00 range. Then, add in the auto drive and all the other stuff and you are looking at $4000.00 plus, to get started. AND, that doesn't include the powder, primers and projectiles (assuming you already have brass), a bench, cabinets, storage bins etc. I have a ton of money invested in my reloading room and equipment, so, I understand the costs involved. Reloading, to me is a completely different hobby which I enjoy as much, if not more, than shooting. If you figure the costs for the equipment that you want, and divide it by the cost of the ammo you shoot and, the amount of ammo that you shoot.......it may be more cost/time effective to just find a commercial reloader and buy a ton of bulk ammo, loaded to your specs. I think that is what the above comment may have been alluding too, although I didn't say it so, I am just guessing. There are a lot of people here just trying to help, me included!

If you are thinking of any in particular I would appreciate the titles. Much appreciated Granted, that would be bad... Fair enough You're not really raining on my parade. That is why I posted the question. Yeah. Not going to hook up an auto drive for awhile. They appear to be on back order right now anyways unfortunately. I guess that lets me run the powder level check which will help with the safety factor until I get the flawless 10K badge. I use an RCBS lockout die on both my 1050's as well as on my 650 for high production pistol ammo (.9mm, .40S&W and .45ACP) It's easy to set up, doesn't have that annoying buzzer and.......if for some crazy reason you have a "no powder" or "double charge" drop, it just locks the press. There is no way of ignoring it, not hearing it/recognizing it, etc.G

I agree! I have 2 1050's, a 650 and a 550! When the 1050 is working, it's working great. If anything goes wrong, and it can......it fails catastrophically. The primer system can be a chore to get working properly. If you add an auto drive, there is no way that you are walking away from the press. You will have to fill primers every 100 rounds and in auto drive mode, that could be less that 3 or 4 minutes depending upon the speed of the auto drive. I don't use an auto drive and can load a ton of rounds, even going very slow! Loaded 10,000 rounds of .45 last week alone!

Can you post a tutorial or a link to one so that we can see what to do to get the thing to do what it is supposed to do, out of the box?G

I did the same thing as you are doing, except it was my fifth press. (I have 2 1050's, a 650 and a 550) I opted for the Redding T-7 turret because you can expand and do so many things with it. I see it as a single stage on steroids. G

I have one, it doesn't work. The primers won't go into the tube. That and my RF 100's are a source of frustration and I find myself lately just pecking at primers, the old fashioned way!

I actually tried this last week because I thought it was a good idea. I only did it overnight. I still am not comfortable leaving powder in so the next day, I emptied it after loading a few hundred rounds!

I had the same issue last week on one of my 1050's. I took the primer bar out and cleaned the track in the frame, that it slides in. I also took some Mother's mag polish and polished the bottom and sides of the primer bar......made a huge difference.

Yep, my M&P gets pretty warm with TG and 9mm 147's. However, Ive seen what happens with Acme's coating when you heat the lead to melting point. It holds up until the lead melts. I was thinking TG for the 230's simply because I really like the recoil with 147's and TG. Very quick, but soft. Ive subscribed to the heavier bullets, faster powders for awhile now, and Im happy with it. Just asking, because alot of you guys have loaded way more than I ever will. CFE, HS-6 and AutoComp are all right next to each other on the burn rate charts. I know different powders, different results, but I always look at that as well. https://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Burn%20Rates%20-%202015-2016.pdf Using the burn rate chart is fine to see where "similar speed" powders are grouped together........I use that too. You are also correct about different powders, different results. We all have our standard, go to powders. I was just trying to answer your specific question regarding the two powders that you asked about, related to my experience. It's always easy to just say use this or use that BUT, that isn't what you asked. I hope my response helped!

I use Titegroup also in .9mm. I shoot 115gr. plated! When I used to load lead, with Titegroup......it was like shooting a black powder muzzleloader, lol!

If what you want is target loads, I would use a FASTER powder that produces less heat. Bullseye, Clays, Red Dot, Solo 1000, AA #2, VV N310... Yes BUT, the OP was only asking about the two powders that he has. He wasn't asking what he should buy!

I am a big Titegroup user.......with that said, I now use Win 231/HP-38 exclusively for .45 ACP, as it is a slower powder than Titegroup. CFE pistol is a little slower than Titegroup so I think that is may be better suited to .45 than Titegroup although, there is no problem using Titegroup. The other thing to think of with Titegroup is: it burns very hot and lead projectiles and/or projectiles with any type of lube on them, get vaporized from the heat. I would use the slower powder that produces less heat!

I found a great trick that really helps: go to Home Depot, Lowe's or your local paint store and buy a paint strainer mesh bag. It fits in a 5 gallon bucket. You can dump the dirty water out of the FA drum, with their strainer cap on. The pins will stay in the bag, the dirty water flows out and the brass stays in the drum. Rinse a few times, repeat and then pour the brass in a media tumbler to get the rest of the pins out. Put the brass in a Harbor freight 5 tier food dehydrator ($25.00) for an hour and your all done!

I had the exact same issue on one of my 1050's.....the screw backed out behind the press.G

That's interesting.....how long are you comfortable leaving powder in there?G

I empty the powder because if left, it discolors the plastic powder hopper. Primers don't stay in because I run through whatever is in there. If I have projectiles left, I leave them in the bullet tray. I have 4 Dillon's and my two 1050's are dedicated to .9mm and .45 so leaving projectiles is no big deal. I have a dedicated, climate controlled reloading room but still don't feel comfortable leaving the powder in the hopper. G

Your original post said that you could use the money for bullets. Now you say it's not the money If it's not the money then keep it....if you need the money, then sell it. What anyone else thinks is irrelevant. Who cares, it's your stuff and you need to decide what you want to do. I have 2 - 1050's, a 650, a 550 and a T-7 turret. I wish I had more...... G

So, sell it!