Which 9mm seat & crimp one-step die do you recommend?

[NicVerAZ]

I guess the title sums it all

Thanks!

[Sarge]

You are going to get a ton of "none" would be my guess. As many times as I have seen them discouraged I've always wondered exactly why. Curious to see what recommendations you get

[NicVerAZ]

You are going to get a ton of "none" would be my guess. As many times as I have seen them discouraged I've always wondered exactly why. Curious to see what recommendations you get

It used to be what people did before.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Little harder to adjust ...

Easier to adjust two separate dies.

[dave33]

Before I switched to using coated lead I had plenty of luck using a lee 3 die set. Their seat/crimp die is pretty easy to adjust and works good. I separate the steps now though.

[IDescribe]

Screw it. Dedicate yourself to JHP and skip the flare and the crimp both. Done deal.


Otherwise -- none, you should seat and crimp in two steps.

[Flatland Shooter]

I've also thought about this. For me it would allow me to use a Mini Mr. Bullet Feeder on a Dillon 550.

But after the many thousands of rounds I've loaded using 9mm Dillon, I've never had the nerve to really experiment with this.

Bill

Edited September 18, 2015 by Flatland Shooter

[Steve RA]

Lee works well, as said before, whatever die you use will have to be carefully adjusted. Then it will work as well as separate dies as you really aren't "crimping" as you should only be straightening the case wall. (Only removing the flare)

[vixty]

My lee bullet seater die seems to do the crimping all by itself. I can screw the adjustment stem all the way in and adjust at actual die for seating depth and it will still put a .373 crimp on the case. It pretty much makes my dedicated lee crimp die a waste. I was wanting a .378 crimp but due to my seater die crimping when I don't want it to I cant get my case that wide. Sometimes it will cause lead bullets to catch and cut on the brass.

[Steve RA]

Back the adjustment stem way out, then back the main die body out most of the way. Now run a sized and flared case up in the die and see what you get. It should come out with the flare still there, move the die body down until it just removes the flare - side wall of case straight. Lock in place and now set the bullet seater to the depth you want.

See if that works for you.

You very well may find that after trying the above you need to back the die body back out slightly to avoid crimping the case too much - a lot of that will depend on the diameter of the bullet you are using. Remember, unless you are loading for a revolver you don't want to "crimp", all you want to do is to straighten the case wall.

Especially if you are loading coated or plated bullets as you don't want to damage the coating or plating. Ideally you will end up with the "wasp waisted" appearance of the loaded round as this will prevent any bullet set back when the round is loaded into the chamber. The bullet should only be held by neck tension.

Edited September 18, 2015 by Steve RA

[RSDelta]

Hornady seat/taper crimp die is working fine for me with RMR plated bullets.

[DWFAN]

My Hornady seat/crimp works pretty well. It works best with single headstamp brass, to minimize brass length variation, but I never worried about it too much. You don't really put a big crimp on 9mm.

Edited September 18, 2015 by DWFAN

[thermobollocks]

Adjustment isn't the annoying part. Even during normal use, I get shaving on my coated and bare lead bullets if I don't seat and crimp separately. With plated or jacketed, RCBS and Lee both work just fine.

[gregshin]

I've used lee with good results on plated bullets