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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Looking to get started in Revo


Endurokids

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Rob was shooting a 627-4 38 super and was feeding it 9mm cases with a jacketed 158.

In the end it doesn't really matter what you shoot, short colt, long colt, 9mm or super, the differences between them is too close to actually measure.

You just need a gun/load combo that works, every time.

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In my opinion I wouldn't obsess too much over getting the shortest case length possible. Plenty of top guys use " longer " cases, such as Specials, Long Colts , and Super brass.

Pick something that works, and practice.

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I use full length 38's. They group better for me out of my revo. I've done a couple sub-2 second reloads recently in dry fire. I can't change shooting positions that fast. The loss off accuracy I saw in my gun with the short brass wasn't worth the minor gains in speed.

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In my opinion I wouldn't obsess too much over getting the shortest case length possible. Plenty of top guys use " longer " cases, such as Specials, Long Colts , and Super brass.

Pick something that works, and practice.

wait wait wait. NOT obsess???? you cray???

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I use full length 38's. They group better for me out of my revo. I've done a couple sub-2 second reloads recently in dry fire. I can't change shooting positions that fast. The loss off accuracy I saw in my gun with the short brass wasn't worth the minor gains in speed.

My experience was the same, though I settled on long colts. When I was in the period where I was relentlessly practicing reloads, nickle starline 38's would reload for me just as fast as short colts(which I experimented with).

In my case though, even with defacto known good SC loads, my guns would shoot laughably pathetic groups, like 5"+ at 25 yards from bags but with a 38 LC or special the groups were half the size. Because the focus was the IRC I couldn't live with a load that couldn't reliably hit an X much past about 20 yards.

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I think it depends on each revolver on how it shoots different loads and bullets. Off a bench at 50 yds I can keep all rounds in the Xring with my V-Comp and my 627 with a cut back cylinder and a true .356 barrel. All with 38 short colt. I would imagine I might do better with 38 special with the V-comp but to shrink the group and still keep them in the Xring as they do now I see know point. If 38 special or long colt gave a a greater advantage I would definitely jump all over it. My preference is the shorter cases for reloads but with practice one can become efficient with the longer cases.

I had the pleasure of being squaded with Jerry M a couple of times at some of the first IRC's and believe me he can reload 38 special faster than a rattle snake. But I think he might have even switched to short colt. I don't know for sure on that.

I guess what i am trying to say is figure out what shoots best out of your revolver and then it is all practice after that.

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I would add, my gun that wouldn't group with short colt also tumbled lead 160's but shot the exact same coated 160 perfectly fine.

Like the mike's say, most have no problems with them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Instead of posting a new topic ill add to this one. I'm picking up a v-comp would the cr speed wsmII holster work for it? When I sold my 686 I sold one of those with it thinking it wouldnt fit an N frame?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Settled in with a Carmony worked S&W 625 JM from this forum to start with.

It requires soft Federal primers, but I just realized that there are a couple to choose from.

Which are the ones to use with soft striking pistols? 150, 150M, 155?

Thanks again to all who responded.

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The 150 and 150M are interchangeable. The 150Ms are match primers, they are the same but more consistent. They all come off the same machine. We don't really need them in our game but they're often available because they cost a bit more. It'll cost you another $1.50 per match to run match primers.

The 155s are magnum primers and may have slightly thicker, and less sensitive, cups.

Edited by PatJones
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have found no issue between running the 100M and the 200M Federal primers. When the 100Ms weren't available for a small eternity, I was using 200Ms and had no issues with light strikes of any sort. That being said, I also regularly check my strain screws for any movement and use my wife's clear nail polish as a thread"holder" on it. It comes off easily with nail polish remover and can be reapplied after thorough cleaning.

As far as guns go, I have been running a 686 SSR that I sent to TK for moonclip cuts and have been running it hard for a few years. Its pretty much always a two tone gun... :D

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I have found no issue between running the 100M and the 200M Federal primers. When the 100Ms weren't available for a small eternity, I was using 200Ms and had no issues with light strikes of any sort. That being said, I also regularly check my strain screws for any movement and use my wife's clear nail polish as a thread"holder" on it. It comes off easily with nail polish remover and can be reapplied after thorough cleaning.

As far as guns go, I have been running a 686 SSR that I sent to TK for moonclip cuts and have been running it hard for a few years. Its pretty much always a two tone gun... :D

Thanks for the info. I knew someone had to have tried them at some point. I ended up finding some regular federal sp so I didnt have to go the magnum primer route, But good to know it is an option.

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