Nimitz Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I'm trying to replace the hammer on my Shadow but can't seem to budge the 2 hammer pins that hold the hammer strut & hammer together .... what am I missing here? Shouldn't they come out relatively easy? I'm afraid to bang much harder .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZachJ Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 They're staked so its really suggested to use a starter punch. I used CGW's starter punch and just smacked really hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGus Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I had a heck of a time with that too as I replaced the stock hammer on an SP01. Had to beat it like it owed me money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Bigger hammer!!! The most important tool is a solid vice, any movement dissipates the energy from the hammer blow. Edited January 8, 2015 by kneelingatlas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pivoproseem Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Just buy a new hammer strut and pins, they aren't much $$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leas327 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Just buy a new hammer strut and pins, they aren't much $$. Probably the best move. You really have to hammer those pins to get them out. If you don't already have the punches just buy a new strut and pin and save yourself the frustration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 yeah there's 2 ways to do this. leave the strut and disco on it. and buy new strut (assuming you're fitting a short reset disco and the hammer - which you should be). otherwise I've gotten them out easily with a starter punch. I don't use a vice though. put hammer on a nice block of wood with a hole drilled to make room for the pin (don't even need that if it's soft wood, the pin will just drive into the wood). use a starter punch and use a decent size hammer so you don't have to swing it so hard. starter punch makes it easy. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 didn't realize they were staked. I think I even bought a starter punch from CGW after getting the gun .... so will I then need new pins after removing them? I'm replacing the hammer because the gun only fires in DA and CZC said the hammer is most likely worn & needs to be replaced ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZachJ Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 CGW sells some of their own pins at $2.50 each and you would need 2. Should be able to reinstall. atlas used some pliers to hold the pins and a vise to push them into the holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I reuse the staked pins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motosapiens Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) didn't realize they were staked. I think I even bought a starter punch from CGW after getting the gun .... so will I then need new pins after removing them? I'm replacing the hammer because the gun only fires in DA and CZC said the hammer is most likely worn & needs to be replaced ... what the?.... how do you wear out a hammer? that must be a navy thing. Hammers last forever in god's own US Army. with my cz's I had to hit the pins harder than ray rice punched his wife to get them to budge. I re-used the staked pins, and i recommend using vice-grips or a small vice to press them back in . Edited January 8, 2015 by motosapiens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZachJ Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I can see the tiny raised lips/edges on the hammer where it stops at cocked and half-cocked positions slowly being worn away.. With A LOT of shooting. Similar to my firearms licence instructor who shot something like 100k through a SIG p226 before a squib or something gave his barrel a bulge and he decided to get a new one. At some point the slide stop had also been worn down so much that it would not hold the slide back. How many rounds Nimitz? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 didn't realize they were staked. I think I even bought a starter punch from CGW after getting the gun .... so will I then need new pins after removing them? I'm replacing the hammer because the gun only fires in DA and CZC said the hammer is most likely worn & needs to be replaced ... as long as they are not damaged you can re-use them. they are cheap to replace though. have you got a short reset (aka pre- disconector in your gun yet? if not, now is a good time to fit one. since you shoot USPSA you can chose either the CGW one or the CZ one. the CGW one seems to be a nicer product. I think you need to have a good look at the hammer and sear before replacing them though. it's possible the SA hammer hooks have worn and it's slipping off them (ie going back to DA), it's also possible the edge of the sear blade is worn and that's why it's happening. need to investigate a little. is it a race hammer on there now? have you ever tested it there was any drag on the sear as the hammer hooks slip under it? (easy test to do, hold trigger back, then manually work the hammer back and forward with the other hand. see/feel if it's dragging on the sear at all). If there is drag it can wear those parts. if it's a sear at least that's cheaper than a new hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgardner Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I use my Dremel to put a dish in the end of the pin and it taps out pretty easily. I replace the pins and re-stake then stone the outer surfaces to remove any burrs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 update: using the starter punch I was able to get the first pin half way out, enough that the disconnector comes off. Of course the punch is not long enough to push the pin all the way out so I switched to a reg punch for that but since I don't have a vice on the bench where I do my gun work I couldn't hold it secure enough to completely remove. Tonight I'll go into my wood shop where I have devised a way to clamp the hammer down & most likely punch the pins out. The gun has the SRT mod in it ... As far as what's really worn out, I purchased a new sear and hammer. I'll have to post some pics for you experts to look at. It's hard for me to tell if either is "worn" to the point of required replacement .... Of course if it is the sear I'm not exactly looking forward to taking apart the sear cage either ... why didn't they design their gun like a Glock .... ? Will I need a slave pin to reassemble the sear cage & if so can I use the trigger slave pin I already have ...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motosapiens Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Will I need a slave pin to reassemble the sear cage & if so can I use the trigger slave pin I already have ...? I do. trigger slave pin may or may not work. If not, you can easily make your own out of an old drill bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 that's pretty gutsy to assume I am capable of doing that .... Also, to a previous question, the gun only has about 20,000 rds through it and I have done nothing to play with the trigger pre-travel set screw. It is as it was set from CZC. If the hammer is really worn out I'm not looking forward to having to replace the hammer every year .... maybe it's time to look for a Stock 2 .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee G Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 update: using the starter punch I was able to get the first pin half way out, enough that the disconnector comes off. Of course the punch is not long enough to push the pin all the way out so I switched to a reg punch for that but since I don't have a vice on the bench where I do my gun work I couldn't hold it secure enough to completely remove. Tonight I'll go into my wood shop where I have devised a way to clamp the hammer down & most likely punch the pins out. The gun has the SRT mod in it ... As far as what's really worn out, I purchased a new sear and hammer. I'll have to post some pics for you experts to look at. It's hard for me to tell if either is "worn" to the point of required replacement .... Of course if it is the sear I'm not exactly looking forward to taking apart the sear cage either ... why didn't they design their gun like a Glock .... ? Will I need a slave pin to reassemble the sear cage & if so can I use the trigger slave pin I already have ...? If you have a 1/16th steel punch use it to finish pushing the hammer pin out. I use a starrett most of the time. I have come across hammer pins that were so tight I had to drill them out. The CZ Custom action block with a padded bar clamp really makes getting the pins out easy. The sear cage is actually very easy to reassemble. Make a slave pin out of a piece of Q-tip cut shaft cut small enough to fit edge to edge in the sear. Use it to hold the sear spring in place. Insert the sear into the cage from the bottom. Lead with the long edge of the sear spring and then rotate the rear (blade of the sear) up into the assembly. If you do it right it just snaps into place. Then push the sear cage pin through. I insert it into one side then use my bench to push it through so the Q-tip just pops out the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 cool, thx. i'll get some pics posted once i get back from dinner and see what you all think should be replaced ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 here are the pics, hopefully someone can tell me which part is actually worn "out" ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 It's hard to tell without holding it in your hand cause when I zoom in I lose res. but it looks like the hammer hooks may be a little rounded. A stock 2 doesn't fare any better or worse (I have 2 shadows and a stock 2) they work the same way so are somewhat subject to the same problems. I know you've only shot 20 thou but if the hammer was dragging (it's too little over travel that causes that) then it's enough to wear a hammer or sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee G Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 here are the pics, hopefully someone can tell me which part is actually worn "out" ..... If you rub your finger against the edge of the sear does it feel sharp or rounded? It's hard to tell about the hammer hooks, but it looks like the tips are rounded. If so it could be an indicator that the over-travel screw was too tight and they eventually just wore away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgardner Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 You may get away with restoring the surfaces to sharp angles with a stone. Try doing the sear first and see if it works. They are junk so it's okay if you take a chance and ruin them. My Shadow hammer actually had a dimple in it from hitting the firing pin and I stoned it flat again. The hooks and sear on mine look good but I took the over travel screw out at the beginning. I have no idea of the round count but it's up there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leas327 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 If you want you can mail them to me and I can take them to work and put them on an optical comparator and take a look. I could compare them with a new comp hammer and low mileage sear I have and post pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 that might be interesting, PM me your address .... I guess I should also look at loosening the over travel screw a tad? I assume that counter clockwise increases over travel? How sensitive is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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