Is trigger pretravel bad?

[BillR1]

I'm trying to decide how much pretravel is bad or harmful to accurate shooting. All four of my CZs, including a CZC-built SA, have a fair amount of pretravel before the trigger hits the "wall". They all break pretty cleanly at that point, but I'm wondering about the various parts that claim to eliminate the pretravel. Should it be a goal to minimize or eliminate all pretravel? How much is "acceptable"?

TIA!

[bikerburgess]

in my opinion, pretravel means nothing,

[rowdyb]

all of my cz's have had about 2-3mm of pretravel even after extensive work. i like having a little bit. especially as in my case there is little to no felt effort at that part of the trigger. i like having that small margin as my finger settles.

[Dranoel]

It's really a matter of what fits you. Personally, I want just enough take-up to feel the trigger engage the seer. Which for me is about 0.005". My total trigger travel is roughly 1/16", maybe a little less. But that's me. You may want more take-up. You may try a trigger with zero take-up and like it. If you shoot well with a long take-up and are used to it, don't change it unless you are prepared to spend time adjusting to the different feel.

Edited December 30, 2014 by Dranoel

[TonytheTiger]

FWIW, on guns with adjustable pre travel it is possible to adjust them to the point that the trigger reset reliability is compromised. Ask me how I know. I adjust it till there's zero pre travel then back it off a hair.

[Powder Finger]

you need a little on a cz. you can get to a minimum if the sear block is welded and fit to remove fore/aft movement.

on a 1911 you need enough to have half cock work and keep trigger bounce from tripping the sear.

P.S. it's fix'n to snow up there.

[Pat Miles]

The gun needs a bit of pre-travel so the sear resets properly under the hammer hooks. Tighten it up too much and you have a single shot gun.

The amount of pre-travel will mean nothing when you learn to prep the trigger.

[BillR1]

Thanks for the insights everyone!

P.S. it's fix'n to snow up there.

Don't remind me...I typically find an excuse to head to the valley when that snow silliness starts.

[P.E. Kelley]

The gun needs a bit of pre-travel so the sear resets properly under the hammer hooks. Tighten it up too much and you have a single shot gun.

The amount of pre-travel will mean nothing when you learn to prep the trigger.

DING DING DING! What Pat said (wow us Pats are smart!)

[bigtimelarry]

I like a little Pre-Travel.. It really only matters for the first shot anyway..

[mike cyrwus]

I like a little Pre-Travel.. It really only matters for the first shot anyway..

not even that, if you prep on the draw like a good little trained ipsc-er

[bountyhunter]

in my opinion, pretravel means nothing,

+1 I stage the trigger by taking up the travel, then break it to shoot the shot.

[bountyhunter]

I'm trying to decide how much pretravel is bad or harmful to accurate shooting. All four of my CZs, including a CZC-built SA, have a fair amount of pretravel before the trigger hits the "wall". They all break pretty cleanly at that point, but I'm wondering about the various parts that claim to eliminate the pretravel. Should it be a goal to minimize or eliminate all pretravel? How much is "acceptable"?

TIA!

BTW, many guns REQUIRE some pre travel so the trigger system can function. Many home smiths screw the gun up by taking out the pre travel, then the trigger won't reset reliably. On a Beretta 92, the pre travel is where the firing pin safety is lifted out of the way: reduce pre travel and you get misfires because the FP safety is hitting the FP. So, don't go too far on reducing pre travel.

Edited December 30, 2014 by bountyhunter