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40S&W Lee FCD?


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I have heard that if you shoot coated bullets, and you have thick brass, the fcd can actually swage the bullet too small and cause leading. I haven't actually observed anything like that, but I've only shot a few thousand rounds of coated or lead. I've shot 25k or so plated bullets using an fcd with no problems except that everything always chamber checks.

I'm very fond of the lee dies.

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I use it for all calibers, also.

It sizes the case down a lot further than the Dillon size die.

If you have oversize bullets and/or thick brass, I can see how it might size the bullet. To check, measure the diameter of a bullet before seating and crimping. Pull the bullet and measure it again to see if it sized the bullet down at all. You can also check and see if you're crimping too much if there's a visible ring where the case mouth was.

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The "Factory Crimp Die" is a taper crimp - straight walled cases don't get crimped per-se. With an FCD, you aren't really crimping the case, you are removing any residue left over from the belling done before the seating.

As with any kind of crimp, a little can go a long way. It's a balancing act. Only expand the case mouth the minimum you need and only taper crimp the minimum. Test, and re-test each a little bit at a time.

If you are doing it right, you shouldn't have a problem. If not...

Edited by Graham Smith
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The FCD has a carbide sizer ring that removes any belling as mentioned by Graham. It's this carbide ring that sizes the case down to ensure better feeding into most gun chambers. The only issue with this is that it can under size cast and plated bullets. In fact, I used to use the FCD to size rounds with home cast bullets rather than running the bullets themselves through a separate bullet sizer.

I formerly used the FCD on all pistol rounds that I loaded. That was until I started using plated bullets more regularly in .40. It took me awhile to realize that the poor accuracy I was getting with plated bullets in .40 was due to the FCD. Brass with thicker walls would size the bullets down below .400" when I used the FCD. I suppose if I used all of the same headstamp brass with thin walls it wouldn't be an issue but who does that?

I barely bell the case with plated bullets and just run a light taper crimp without the FCD in .40. For some reason, I never had accuracy issues with the FCD when loading plated bullets in 9mm.

Edited by d_striker
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I am currently testing the FCD in 9mm. The only reason I'm doing so, believe it or not, is for ease of adjustment. I have sworn off the Dillon dies because of only having course adjustment capabilites. I currently use a LEE sizer or a Udie, a redding pro seater and the LEE FCD. My rounds all gauged perfectly pretty much without the FCD so I have it adjusted up pretty high so all I am really doing with it is crimping.

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I am currently testing the FCD in 9mm. The only reason I'm doing so, believe it or not, is for ease of adjustment. I have sworn off the Dillon dies because of only having course adjustment capabilites. I currently use a LEE sizer or a Udie, a redding pro seater and the LEE FCD. My rounds all gauged perfectly pretty much without the FCD so I have it adjusted up pretty high so all I am really doing with it is crimping.

The FCD (for auto loading pistols) does two things: sizes via the carbide ring and taper crimps. You can adjust the amount of crimp but all rounds will be sized through the carbide ring at the bottom of the die regardless of how much crimp is applied.

Edited by d_striker
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I use an FCD with plated bullets (X-Treme) and have no problem. On the few occasions I've had to pull a reload there has not been any and I mean NO marks on the bullet to show it was ever used.

As others reported problems, YMMV.

I attribute the variance in results to tolerances on the carbide ring. The other variable is the actual diameter of one's barrel. I have 3 different XDm .40's that have slightly different sized bores.

Edited by d_striker
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I am currently testing the FCD in 9mm. The only reason I'm doing so, believe it or not, is for ease of adjustment. I have sworn off the Dillon dies because of only having course adjustment capabilites. I currently use a LEE sizer or a Udie, a redding pro seater and the LEE FCD. My rounds all gauged perfectly pretty much without the FCD so I have it adjusted up pretty high so all I am really doing with it is crimping.

The FCD does two things: sizes via the carbide ring and taper crimps. You can adjust the amount of crimp but all rounds will be sized through the carbide ring at the bottom of the die regardless of how much crimp is applied.

Yeah but I have it screwed way out from the shell plate. So it's not sizing much if any near as I can see.

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The only issue with this is that it can under size cast and plated bullets. In fact, I used to use the FCD to size rounds with home cast bullets rather than running the bullets themselves through a separate bullet sizer.

This is the thing that I've never fully understood - probably because I don't use cast or plated bullets. It almost sounds as if you are saying that these bullets are too "fat".

You should be able to adjust the die just enough so that the finished cartridge will drop free into a case gauge. At least that's what I've always tried to do.

Edited by Graham Smith
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The only issue with this is that it can under size cast and plated bullets. In fact, I used to use the FCD to size rounds with home cast bullets rather than running the bullets themselves through a separate bullet sizer.

This is the thing that I've never fully understood - probably because I don't use cast or plated bullets. It almost sounds as if you are saying that these bullets are too "fat".

You should be able to adjust the die just enough so that the finished cartridge will drop free into a case gauge. At least that's what I've always tried to do.

In the case of my cast bullets, they were a little too fat.

But it comes down to the size of the carbide ring, wall thickness of brass, and how much the bullet "springs" back.

Edited by d_striker
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I use the FCD and with it's carbide ring being mounted very near the die mouth, it sizes more of the case than most sizing dies. By adjusting the die to nearly touch the shell holder or plate, I find that it removes more of the case bulge left by my sizing die. I feel that feeding is more reliable when you use the FCD and does not negatively impact the accuracy of my reloads.

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I don't use my FCD anymore, although I think it worked great. The one thing I really liked about it was, I had very few "reject" rounds produced, after case gauging, using range pickup brass. What I didn't like was how rough the press ran due to sizing in 2 locations at once. Being that my competiton pistols (1911, Glock, and M&P) aren't picky about ammo, I removed it from the press.

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I don't use my FCD anymore, although I think it worked great. The one thing I really liked about it was, I had very few "reject" rounds produced, after case gauging, using range pickup brass. What I didn't like was how rough the press ran due to sizing in 2 locations at once. Being that my competiton pistols (1911, Glock, and M&P) aren't picky about ammo, I removed it from the press.

Same here. It made the press run a little rougher. I actually use it separately on any rounds that don't pass the case gauge check and it gets them working.

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I don't use my FCD anymore, although I think it worked great. The one thing I really liked about it was, I had very few "reject" rounds produced, after case gauging, using range pickup brass. What I didn't like was how rough the press ran due to sizing in 2 locations at once. Being that my competiton pistols (1911, Glock, and M&P) aren't picky about ammo, I removed it from the press.

Same here. It made the press run a little rougher. I actually use it separately on any rounds that don't pass the case gauge check and it gets them working.

I haven't done that, that's a great idea. Now I just use those "reject" rounds in practice sessions, but those rejects start adding up pretty quick.

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When I tried lanolin home brew and dillon lube last week for the first time it felt like I was missing my sizer die. Even with the FCD there was virtually no resistance on the handle. Everyone should at least try it once!

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Can i take the carbide ring out?

I would just buy a separate Lee taper crimp die. They are cheap and work well.

Try it first. Like everyone has mentioned, it really does improve the feeding reliability. If you get acceptable accuracy, keep using it. I still use it for jacketed bullets.

Edited by d_striker
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