How do you go about fitting your grips?

[S391]

This may sound like a silly question but I've always felt that my grips do not fit my hand... How would I go about fitting my grips? Has anyone done this? Do you need to start with wood grips and grind / sand as needed? Is there a guideline for what to look for??

Edited July 18, 2014 by S391

[Bubber]

The only guideline I use is that I do not care what they look like when I am finished as it is only a tool to be used. If the grips are way to large start with a smaller grip and add on to it. I use a epoxy putty that you fold to mix. Add a dab where you wish to fill your hand up and sand it down when it dries. And if the grip is to large in an area whittle or grind to your hearts content. YMMV

[toothguy]

The rubber on the Hogue grips can be shaped down with a Dremel sanding drum. They have a hard plastic core that you will hit if you go to far. I like using the Miculek wood grips because they are longer providing more surface area to grab and carve. I use Bondo to add to the wood grips that can't be done with the rubber ones. Over time you may reshape the grips many times to find what you really like. When you find what you like spray them with black primer and apply skate board tape.

[ihocky2]

I've been lucky that the rubber Hogues grips fit my hand pretty well. Some of my guns wear wooden Ahrend's and those I have to shape. I like the finger grooves for non-action pistol guns. For my action guns I use rasps and files to remove the finger grooves mostly and carve reliefs as needed. I leave a little of the groove on the sides for comfort. Once they are shaped I apply a few coats of Danish Oil.

[S391]

Thanks... I've tried Hogues, Hogue X-frames, Nills, Pachmayr's, the Miculeks, Ahrends, etc... The Pachmayrs seem to work the best but I'm still not pleased with them.... I think I'll try to find an old set of S&W wood grips that I can carve up as needed.

[Luv2rideWV]

This post has inspired me to make yet another mess in my wife's house. When I'm brave enough to sacrifice my set of JM grips and try it, I'll post the results.

[1911Prof]

can you safely remove material from the part of the grip next to the trigger guard so you can get a higher grip sort of like undercutting a 1911 grip?

[aandabooks]

For me Hogue grips are the perfect fit on every gun I've put the on. It's like they use my hand for the model when they make their grips. I have Hogues on several ARs and a couple handguns. I have wood JM grips on my 625 and really like the way they feel as well.

[revoman]

If interested I have 2 blank Hogue grips that fit a N frame round butt with all the hardware. I bought these as a winter project but a few winters have gone by and I have gone on to other projects. If interested shoot me an email at zemog@iowatelecom.net and I can send you some pictures. I would put them here but I can't figure it out.

Dean

[WheelGunHunter]

can you safely remove material from the part of the grip next to the trigger guard so you can get a higher grip sort of like undercutting a 1911 grip?

Yes you can, I do that to all my rubber grips just don't go to high or you'll hit the hard plastic inside. I've done it to a wood miculek grip too and it turned out okay I just prefer the rubber grips. I used a dremel with a sanding wheel to do the job.

[toothguy]

can you safely remove material from the part of the grip next to the trigger guard so you can get a higher grip sort of like undercutting a 1911 grip?

Yes you can, I do that to all my rubber grips just don't go to high or you'll hit the hard plastic inside. I've done it to a wood miculek grip too and it turned out okay I just prefer the rubber grips. I used a dremel with a sanding wheel to do the job.

I had the same idea, but it positioned the rear of the trigger guard to concentrate force on my middle finger during recoil. I used a set of Miculek grips so I was able to refill the area with Bondo.

[Gregg K]

I had the same idea, but it positioned the rear of the trigger guard to concentrate force on my middle finger during recoil. I used a set of Miculek grips so I was able to refill the area with Bondo.

I know several people that have modified their grips and removed material behind the trigger guard but didn't use them for long since recoil just beats up your middle finger too much. This was back when everyone was shooting major and may be more tollerable with the 8 shooters and minor loads.

Edited December 20, 2014 by Gregg K

[revoman]

I had the same idea, but it positioned the rear of the trigger guard to concentrate force on my middle finger during recoil. I used a set of Miculek grips so I was able to refill the area with Bondo.

I know several people that have modified their grips and removed material behind the trigger guard but didn't use them for long since recoil just beats up your middle finger too much. This was back when everyone was shooting major and may be more tollerable with the 8 shooters and minor loads.

Still hurts with minor.

[Shadowrider]

I took Bubber's idea and went nuts.

They actually work amazingly well for weak hand too. I had a friend spray black duracoat afterwards. Kinda wish I hadn't done that, they looked better this way.

[BBeavers]

I fooled around with many different types of grips - tried making my own, but ended up spending the money and getting a set of Trooper Jordan custom stocks made by Herrett's. Best money I ever spent on shooting gear.

[toothguy]

I took Bubber's idea and went nuts.

They actually work amazingly well for weak hand too. I had a friend spray black duracoat afterwards. Kinda wish I hadn't done that, they looked better this way.

That looks really good. Could you discuss the process and material you used. Thanks.

[Shadowrider]

Sure. The white putty is the main material and it is J-B Water Weld epoxy putty. I just applied and formed it to my hand with a single layer saran wrap "glove" with the grip mounted on the gun with the backstrap masked off. I used more to patch the voids and smooth it up some, then used regular J-B Weld to fill the smaller voids and make it smoother. Then file and sand until you have it where you want it.

To apply the grit I used J-B Weld thinned a little bit with acetone so it will brush on and just dropped 150 grit silicon carbide grit on it from a salt shaker. After a 24 hour cure I used a toothbrush pretty vigorously to brush off any grit that wasn't bonded firmly and amazingly there wasn't much at all that came off. After that I had black duracoat sprayed on the whole thing. Now I wish I had just applied more wax or tung oil to the exposed wood and called it a day. My thinking on the duracoat was that it would encapsulate the grit and keep it there and it does, but I think the look of the uncoated grit is pretty cool and you can't see the wood grain. I like the grit so much I did my M&P 9Pro in it and it's holding up good.

One thing about the grit is that you better plant your hand on the draw in the right place, because you ain't moving it, it's very unforgiving in that. It teaches muscle memory which I view as a good thing.

[kevinj308]

That is super cool, I'm gonna give that a shot. Thanks!!!!!!!

[seanc]

I ended up shaping a xframe grip the way I liked it, then took measurements with photos and sent to hogue to make as a big butt.

[alecmc]

I had the same idea, but it positioned the rear of the trigger guard to concentrate force on my middle finger during recoil. I used a set of Miculek grips so I was able to refill the area with Bondo.

I know several people that have modified their grips and removed material behind the trigger guard but didn't use them for long since recoil just beats up your middle finger too much. This was back when everyone was shooting major and may be more tollerable with the 8 shooters and minor loads.

this.

been there, done that, didnt like it.

It sounds good in theory, but after a few rounds the metal of the bottom of the trigger guard really starts taking a toll on your fingers.

I use houge wooden big butts exclusively, and typically wind up modifying all of them to my liking.

- extended the area where your middle , ring and pinky go by extending the bottom of the grip into the " butt " section

- contour out the area of the left side where moonclips would eject, I had trouble with clips getting hung up on the grip occasionally.

- round out any of the ' corners ' on the underside where the trigger gaurd meets up.

[seanc]

I had the same idea, but it positioned the rear of the trigger guard to concentrate force on my middle finger during recoil. I used a set of Miculek grips so I was able to refill the area with Bondo.

I know several people that have modified their grips and removed material behind the trigger guard but didn't use them for long since recoil just beats up your middle finger too much. This was back when everyone was shooting major and may be more tollerable with the 8 shooters and minor loads.

this.

oh yeah, this is folley. The first grip I did this on was put on a 4" 625. I dry fired it alot but didn't shoot it much. Went to indoor nationals and was bleeding by the fourth stage.