Getting Started in Revolver- Please Advise

[doubleforte78]

Hello wheelgun guys.

I've been shooting autoloaders in Production (B class) and Single Stack (C class) for several years. I recently got certified to teach NRA basic pistol courses but to do so I will need to have a single action only revolver and a double action revolver to teach loading and unloading processes. I have never owned a revolver.

Soooo.... I could buy a Taurus POS and a single action .22 on the cheap, but why do that when I could learn to play a new game?

I've fired maybe 50 rounds though revolvers in my shooing carreer- all .357/38 or .22.

I plan to start bugging the local wheelgun guys at the next local match (Atlanta) but in the meantime...

What are the most popular revolvers for USPSA/IDPA?

How much should I expect to spend on a double action pistol for the game?

What caliber should I be looking for? (I reload on a Dillon 550)

[alecmc]

Currently, arguably the best revolver for USPSA right now is the S&W 627. 8 shots of 38/357 in a moonclip. Or the S&W 625 6 shot .45 acp in moonclip. The 627 will be scored Minor scoring for USPSA and the 625 will be scored major. For somebody new to the game, i'd recommend having the extra 2 shots of .38 in the 627

As far as IDPA, a variety more, which would include speed loaders and require different equipment for your belt.

There are probably more reloading techniques and methods out there then people at the match, But for the most part the question you'll be asking yourself is : Strong hand reload, or Weak hand reload.

Strong hand, probably made most popular by Jerry Miculek. It involves transferring the gun to your weak hand, and picking up the moonclip with your strong hand and inserting it into the cylinder.

Weak hand reload, Revolver will stay in your strong hand the entire time, and your weak hand picks and drops the moonclip.

I would budget between 800 and 1200 depending on which S&W revolver you want to purchase, and past that : which variety of that particular model you want... Pro Series / Performance series - 4" or 5" barrel, etc etc.

Also, most revolver shooters in USPSA have some sort of work done to their triggers and action to smooth and lighten things up on the double action trigger. So you may want to budget a few extra dollars for an action job.

Edited July 17, 2014 by alecmc

[GOF]

The 627 is the top choice for USPSA shooting .38 Spl. But, it will not be legal for IDPA. In that game you are restricted to a 4.2 inch barrel and only six rounds. A 625 in 4.2 inch or shorter can play USPSA or IDPA ESR division with .45 ACP. A similar length barrel shooting .38 Spl can also play both games -- shooting USPSA Revolver in Minor (which is a disadvantage for serious competition, but not too bad at the club level), and shooting IDPA SSR. In that regard, S&W 686 or Ruger GP-100 would be excellent choices. They both use the same size L-frame speedloaders. You might be able to find one of these on the used market, and at a decent price. I would suggest Comp III speedloaders and a Blade Tech holster.

[johnmac]

For the purposes of training new shooters on manipulation of SA and DA revo's, I'd suggest:

1. Single action - a used Ruger Blackhawk, or cowboy action variant with fixed sights, any center fire caliber. Or even an Italian Colt SAA clone.

2. Double action - a used S&W K-frame in .38 Special...because they are so plentiful, so they're relatively cheap. Easy to find a nice Model 10 or similar for $350 without looking to hard that will likely be a much better gun than a brand new Taurus. You'll pay more for an adjustable sight S&W, or a 357 Magnum model, or a stainless model, but for the purpose of your class, this would strictly be optional.

Also, something to consider...we will make fun of you if we catch you with a Taurus, Rossi, or similar low quality S&W knockoff in public.

I'd suggest a 4" or longer barrel, so if you let any new shooters shoot your guns, they are not frustrated by a short sight radius.

I suggest a center fire because you can dry fire away to your heart's content with a center fire. Not always so with a rim fire as you risk peening the cylinder with the hammer.

If you want a DA revolver that can also be used in competition...

For IDPA, max barrel length is 4", and you may only load 6.

For IDPA SSR division (speed loader fed, 105 PF), a 4" Model 10 would work fine, although a model with interchangeable front sight (to add a FO front sight) and adjustable rear sight may give you advantages and options for competition. Plenty of cheap used K-Frames (M10, 64, 15, 19, 65, 66, 67, etc) floating around ($300 and up).

For IDPA ESR, (165 PF, moon clips allowed) the best option is a S&W 625 in .45 ACP. There are some fixed sight and light weight variants of this gun, and M1917 and Brazilian Model relics with barrels bubba'd to 4" floating around, but they are uncommon. 625's are not cheap, new or used ($800 +)

For USPSA, I'd suggest an 8-shot S&W 627 revolver. You won't see too many used 8-shots floating around, and the 4" pro series 627 is pretty reasonable priced new ($850 or so). Or spend more $1,100 for a Performance center model with longer barrel.

Edited July 17, 2014 by johnmac

[BillR1]

I just started shoot revolver full-time this season and I'm really having alot of fun with it!! I've shot my autos very little this year.

I shoot a 4" 686 in IDPA SSR division, and a 4" 625 in ESR. Both guns are readily available on the used market.

[Blueridge]

If you are looking for a good stock revolver I don't think that you could go wrong with a Ruger GP-100 in .357 with a 4.20" barrel in stainless, as far as double action revolvers go. The MSRP is approx. $800.00, but you will likely find lower prices in your local gun shop.

In single action I would suggest a Ruger New Model Blackhawk in .357 with a 4.62" barrel in stainless. The MSRP is approx. $730.00, but again you can likely get a better price from your local gun shop.

Just my opinion of course.

[56hawk]

I recently switched from shooting a 625 to a 327 for USPSA. I had to buy all new gear and the total cost was around $2,000. That's pretty much what you are going to have to spend to be competitive. If you just want to have fun just about any revolver in 38 Special or bigger will work.

[pskys2]

As for reloading techniques,to start this is what I recommend:

At the range lay your revolver on a table, cylinder closed and unloaded.

Pick it up and load it without thinking about it.

How did you normally do it? That's the reload technique you should start with.

Some naturally pick it up and load the moon clip with the weak hand, some will load it with the strong hand. There is no wrong or right way. And it can always be changed. But what you do instinctively while loading an unloaded Revo with a moon clip, is what wil be easiest to do in a COF.

[TerryYu]

I've just switched from autoloaders to a 627 but I'm having problems with split times. Not as far as fast splits on the field, but actually just pulling the dang trigger any faster than a .3 or so in dry fire without my finger getting really tired after just a couple of drills.

I've got a weak trigger finger. What would be the fastest way to strengthen it up so I can get faster at pulling the trigger?

[PatJones]

I've just switched from autoloaders to a 627 but I'm having problems with split times. Not as far as fast splits on the field, but actually just pulling the dang trigger any faster than a .3 or so in dry fire without my finger getting really tired after just a couple of drills.

I've got a weak trigger finger. What would be the fastest way to strengthen it up so I can get faster at pulling the trigger?

Shoot more, it will come down with time. Have you had the action tuned?

[TerryYu]

No. I'm going to get the action polished but otherwise I'm not changing too much about the revolver until I can exploit it. My 686 has a lightened action but I wind up short stroking it when I try to go fast.

[PatJones]

While I can shoot splits just over .2 on bill drills at 3 yards, I probably average .3's on a field course.

I don't care for sub 6 lb pulls either. They are easy to short stroke or even skip by a chamber if you hesitate on a sight picture.

[mikey357]

I've just switched from autoloaders to a 627 but I'm having problems with split times. Not as far as fast splits on the field, but actually just pulling the dang trigger any faster than a .3 or so in dry fire without my finger getting really tired after just a couple of drills.

I've got a weak trigger finger. What would be the fastest way to strengthen it up so I can get faster at pulling the trigger?

DRYFIRE is your FRIEND in this situation!...and LOTS OF IT, too...HTH....mikey357

[lora]

Here's a thought, shoot straight in Orlando has several law enforcement S&W mod 15 for $299. Have TK cut it for 9mm with some moons, around $300. Total $600. Add some speed loaders and you have and idpa gun, ICORE classic gun, USPSA gun (not the best by any stretch), a teaching gun for manual, speed loader, and moonclip gun. 38's for the speed loaders, 9mm to lower ammo cost. This is just for fun, no serious thought was put into it. Otherwise, 625 would fit with lowest initial cost and good pay back. Man revolvers are great, so many options.

Edited July 22, 2014 by lora

[Toolguy]

The 38 Special doesn't work well in a 9mm chamber. The 9 chamber is too big and bulges the brass big time.

[lora]

The 38 Special doesn't work well in a 9mm chamber. The 9 chamber is too big and bulges the brass big time.

I meant to rechamber, the cylinder and cut for clips, hence no bulge issue. What I did with spare cylinder and works like it was made for the round.

Edited July 22, 2014 by lora

[Toolguy]

OK - spare cylinder rechambered for 9mm will work, then change cylinders back to original for 38 Special. In post 14 it sounded like you were going to use the rechambered cylinder for everything.