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Do's and Dont's for the 1st time custom Limited build


xxDRBxx

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Hello all

I wonder if those on here that shoot USPSA Limited division might b willing to weigh in with a few opinions from their experience with a custom built pistol on a STI 2011 frame. I am new to Limited division having only shot production and SS divisions previously and I have never had a custom pistol built.

I currently do have a gunsmith in mind and I have been very pleased with his reputation, and ease in communication in my initial conversations

I also currently own a STI 2011 long / wide frame ( never built ) Brazos modified unique 5" slide ( lightning cuts and dovetail / bomar cuts already done )

In the world of 1911/2011 pistol parts there seems to be no end to boutique and specialty brands, latest fad's ( for better or worse ) and "must" have parts and gadgets...

If you were to build a pistol based on solid performance, and ultra reliability for a new shooter what items and or brands would your request in a parts spec for your build? Price is certainly a factor as I've never spent this type of money on a firearm before, but I will be parting with a few items to help ease that pain

Dan Barker

EDIT: Not sure I posted this in the right forum area...

Edited by xxDRBxx
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I typically request aftec extractors, SVI triggers, stainless mainspring housings, fiber front and adjustable rear, and aggressively stippled and double undercut grip. I stay away from STI safeties. Bar Sto barrel if I can get one, KKM otherwise and either throated for long length ammo. I am sure your gunsmith won't put junk in your gun, there are many excellent parts manufacturers out there today.

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sounds like you have the major stuff picked out. Talk to the smith and see what they suggest. Usually they have built a good number of guns and have an idea of what works. Then pick your favorite trigger length, order it, look at mags online, and wait

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Also Koenig hammer, EGW fire control parts, Ed Brown or Wilson ambi safeties, Wilson grip safety. I would go with the KKM barrel based on my experience with them. They do take more time to fit than other barrels but are extremely accurate.

Edited by Jaxshooter
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Excellent, thank you for the recommendations!

How about fitted parts that would be best to have a spare fitted for for backup in a range bag? ( I won't have a backup gun )

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You mean like extractors and firing pin stops? Absolutely a good idea because if you have a spare that pretty much guarantees you will never need it (fickle finger of fate!). It's the part that you don't have a back-up that will break!

A while back I replaced the hammer/sear/disco on one of my 2011s. That also required changing out the thumb safety since the original safety was fit to the stock sear. I put the all the original parts: hammer, strut, sear, disco, and thumb safety in a bag as a "pre-fit" spare parts kit. I also kept the stock extractor when I upgraded to an Aftec.

My problem is I will acquire extra parts thinking that they'll be handy as back-ups, then I get it into my head to build a new pistol and the first thing I do is raid my parts kit. Which means I have to start all over again. That's why I just bring a back-up gun to major matches. If it is a local match and my gun goes T-U I'll just RO/scorekeep if I don't have a replacement part.

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I have three custom (Kodiak Precision) SVs; Limited, Single Stack and 3Gun 9mm. I did have a SV Open gun but don't shoot Open anymore so I sold it.

My first build was a STI with mostly Brown parts. Sold it.

I use SV frames, slides, sear, hammer, spring exclusively. Aftec extractor. I have Brown safeties on one gun but SV on the others.

SV parts are expensive but to me, well worth the price. I have over 50,000 rounds in my Limited gun. The original trigger job still produces a smooth release. The Aftec is on the only thing I have to replace (2013 Limited Nationals-ugh!).

It is cheaper to go first class.

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Thank you all very much. Working up a basic list of parts as a first pass "wish list" for this upcoming build with Frank Glenn out of AZ. Frank has been outstanding through the early conversations of my 1st 2011 pistol

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Ok, here's one I hadn't thought of that Mr. Glenn just asked...

Slide to lock back on empty mag or not? He stated that mags can sometimes lock back with one round left in the magazine and that some shooters eliminate the hold open all together.

I had never considered this shooting glocks and single stack 1911's

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No slide lock

Make sure the grip is grippy enough (ie: stippling, tape, etc)

Slide serrations/cuts up front for ease of slide manipulation

Adjustable sights with a good fiber optic front

Aftec extractors, dawson magwell, and for the love of god, tune your mags!

Just my 2 cents

Edited by Mk18
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I will post my initial build list when I get home later tonight, but it sounds like I'm on the right track.

Mag tuning is really the only thing up in the air. Mags are hard enough to find in my state legally (I need pretty ban sti mags, and that's not easy! )

Tune my own with a tuning kit? I have inquired with Mr Glenn as to his recommendation and what he might be able to offer

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Egw for all hard parts. Dawson mag well, shuemann barrel. .110 rear bomad/ .060" serrated black front.

Sounds like the customs I've had built.

He is quoting the build with Bar-Store no bull barrel as that is his personal prefernece

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when I was looking for a Bar-Sto, they were difficult to obtain in 2008 as well, best I could do was get on a wait list, with a minimum of 6 months estimated time. KKM was my 2nd choice because I wanted a stainless barrel. When I went to order my slide and frame from Brazos, I found that he stocks Bar-Sto's and had a few in stock, I added it to the order.

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Do y'all like to disable the slide stop because it sometimes happens prematurely with one round left, or is there another reason?

I would hate to have my slide return forward as if loaded when actually empty.

It will lock with a round in the mag if you use thin followers like Grams for max mag capacity.

You can just trim the follower a bit to keep it from activating.

Depending on the caliber, you can also break the ejector with an aggressive reload with the slide locked back.

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Tuned mags is a must

Not sure I agree with this for a 40 anymore.

All of the newly manufactured 40 STI tubes I have received (at least 8 in the past 2 years) have all ran out of the bag by simply dropping in Grams followers/springs with a base pad of my choice. They all fit hold 20 and fit the gauge as well. They run no different than my 4 "tuned" Brazos mags, which also only hold 20 comfortably/reloadable. Feedlips are all within spec as well.

Have someone tune them for 21+ maybe, but for 20? I don't believe the hype anymore.

I find it hard to believe I got lucky with 8 different tubes bought on different occasions.

Edited by JaeOne3345
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I got my first 2011 in November of last year. Got a second one last month. I bought four 140mm mags and 3 126mm mags and they all work untuned. Some have SV springs/followers, some have Grams and the 126mm are stock internals. All with Dawson bases. Never a problem. I need to get them coated though. They rust.

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Tuned mags is a must

Not sure I agree with this for a 40 anymore.

All of the newly manufactured 40 STI tubes I have received (at least 8 in the past 2 years) have all ran out of the bag by simply dropping in Grams followers/springs with a base pad of my choice. They all fit hold 20 and fit the gauge as well. They run no different than my 4 "tuned" Brazos mags, which also only hold 20 comfortably/reloadable. Feedlips are all within spec as well.

Have someone tune them for 21+ maybe, but for 20? I don't believe the hype anymore.

I find it hard to believe I got lucky with 8 different tubes bought on different occasions.

You have had better luck then I have then. I had an issue with one of mine grams guts and TTI base pads. The others were good.

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