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Suggestions & Diagnosis


bayougump

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Gentleman,

As I have posted before I purchased a Stock II a little over a month ago. I sent it to the gunsmith and had it fine tuned, trigger job, competition parts, etc. I received it back and it ran flawlessly up until last weekend. Since then it's been downhill.

I shoot bayou 147s in production and use only Federal primers. I started having light strikes. None in DA, only in SA. I checked and made sure everything was clean, no debris in firing channel, and that all primers were seated. I was told to cut a couple coils off firing pin spring since the hammer was not striking the backplate flush after firing. I did that and the hammer hits and stays flush now. Had a match yesterday and same thing happened again, light strikes. So I replaced the Wolff firing pin spring with a factory spring cut down to 65mm to start.

Had a steel match today and all started fine then the light strikes ensued. I was told may have to cut another coil or 2 as spring sets and did and to no avail. Also the hammer would end in the half cock position after firing a SA shot today also. Never happened before today. I'm sending it back to gunsmith but curious as what y'all think could cause or be the problem? I haven't taken the trigger out, sear, hammer spring or anything, haven't touched internal guts except cleaning excess carbon build up with a q-tip.

On a side note, I changed the recoil spring from a 9lb to stock spring just because while practicing after the match and the light strikes basically ceased but hammer still only goes to 1/2 cock position after firing SA instead of being all the way back before pulling trigger. I thought that was weird. The SA trigger pull this afternoon felt way too light which led me to believe something more going on and I think it's above my level of expertise to fix. Thanks in advance

Sent from my Flux Capacitor

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ok, well firstly SA should give a harder strike than DA (as DA the hammer doesn't go as far back before releasing).

it sounds to me like the timing is out and after an SA shot the hammer is dropping to the half cock notch and when you pull the trigger you are basically getting 3/4 of a DA stroke. so the trigger pull is lifting it off the half cock notch and then dropping it in DA. at least that's what it sounds like.

was there any timing problem evident before the light strikes started?

my main advice is what you're doing. send it back.

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You are seating the bullets too long and the gun is barely going into battery. Some of the energy of the hammer is being lost. When you switched to a heavier recoil spring it is driving the slide and round fully forward. Try seating deeper or throating barrel

The half cock deal; the hammer is actually bouncing back into half cock when dry fired. It won't do that with a round or dummy in chamber. Just the "wrong" length of firing pin return spring

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That's some good stuff JB, I just thought of another possibility: if your over travel screw is dialed in too tight the half clock hooks could be catching on the sear on its way forward. Hold the trigger all the way to the rear and work the hammer with your thumb and feel for contact with the sear.

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The half cock thing is firing live, not dry fire. The OAL is 1.115-1.120 on my loads and ran fine until last weekend. When fired the hammer goes all the way forward and hits back plate. But if it's a single action shot, instead of the hammer returning all the way back after the shot is fired like it had before, it only comes to 1/2 cock position once slide moves all the way back forward and ready for next shot. I can manually pull hammer fully back, rack slide fully back, but after a SA shot, it comes to rest at half cock position. I pinned trigger back and checked to see if hammer was catching any interference with sear and it wasn't. Total rd count is no more than 2K.

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BeerBaron, there was no timing issues when I got it back from gunsmith, it was fine tuned perfectly. What you described sounds pretty much spot on. It's like I get a pull in between what a DA and SA should feel like

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I'll second Nealio. You'll want to convince yourself it's not the sear due to the gun not having many rounds. I went through the same thing when I had to work on my limited after having a very low round count.

My advice. If you are planning on getting more tanfoglios in the future (say this because they are addicting, as we have talked about on this forum) is to get yourself a hammer, roll pin punch set, gun block, and some sharpening stones. Build up some courage and explore a little. Do research on here, ask questions and work on that gun yourself. Guns, most of the time, are simplistic. I have faith that you can do it.

It'll save you those gunsmithing fees, and you'll most likely enjoy working on it. Just don't be in a rush.

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It'll save you those gunsmithing fees, and you'll most likely enjoy working on it. Just don't be in a rush.

:cheers:

My advice. If you are planning on getting more tanfoglios in the future (say this because they are addicting, as we have talked about on this forum) is to get yourself a hammer, roll pin punch set, gun block, and some sharpening stones. Build up some courage and explore a little. Do research on here, ask questions and work on that gun yourself. Guns, most of the time, are simplistic. I have faith that you can do it.

Nobody ever told me I needed that sutff!?! I've been using a hacksaw, heavy rock and finish nails!

Edited by kneelingatlas
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It'll save you those gunsmithing fees, and you'll most likely enjoy working on it. Just don't be in a rush.

:cheers:

My advice. If you are planning on getting more tanfoglios in the future (say this because they are addicting, as we have talked about on this forum) is to get yourself a hammer, roll pin punch set, gun block, and some sharpening stones. Build up some courage and explore a little. Do research on here, ask questions and work on that gun yourself. Guns, most of the time, are simplistic. I have faith that you can do it.

Nobody ever told me I needed that sutff!?! I've been using a hacksaw, heavy rock and finish nails!

Prove it. Jk

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One other thing, check and see the sear spring. I had a CZ sear spring which is lighter and i have been experiencing hammer follow lately. CZ sear spring has 2 coils, Tanfo/EAA has 3 coils.

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I stick with my original asessment: hammer follow

yeah I'm tending to lean that way too. hammer follow or gun not timed properly.

either way it's probably not a problem I'd recommend someone tackle as their first foray into home gun smithing. and since a gunsmith did the mods, I'd be sending it back to the smith for rectification.

some of the other ideas sounded good too. but without holding/seeing the thing it's hard to diagnose over the net.

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Dumb question but what is "hammer Follow"? What could potentially cause the timing to get outta whack? I didn't strip it apart and remove anything or try adjusting stuff, can it just happen by firing overtime? Just curious so I know and learn more

Sent from my flux capacitor

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Hammer follow is when the hammer does not engage the sear at the fully cocked position, therefore causing the hammer to fall to the half cocked position. You will most likely be able to pull the hammer back to the fully cocked position and it will stay, by manually moving it or racking the slide. But the violence of a fired round and the slide moving rearward and back again to the charged position rapidly, causes the hammer to follow the slide back to the half cocked position.

This issue is normally due to the sear being worn . There is a little way to test this. Its discussed on the forum. But since you dont have the gun in your possession its going to be hard to try.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

If I may I´ll use this topic, I have the same problem after instaling new Extreme hammer and a new one piece sear ( long )... I had to file off the sear safety leg and also the reset leg and now when dry firing sometimes ( when I make a quick pull in DA ) the hammer stays in half cocked position... Where did I make a mistake :(

Thank you for your help...

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