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JB38Super

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Everything posted by JB38Super

  1. Cool Troy is the man Let the grinding begin and reloads slide home!!!! Jim B
  2. Just a quick reminder here folks. 22.4 limits the length of the opening to 1/4" longer than a magazine........ Jim
  3. Follow the original contour on the sear leg. Move it back a few thousands at a time, testing in between
  4. The theory of the two piece sear came from the need to shorten the hook set and resulting shorter sear travel/trigger throw. It enables the FPB to have a greater range of travel since the sear and FPB actuating lever are now independent. In order to get the short, light SA trigger pulls that were being desired, the hook set on the hammer are now less than .020. If you will notice, the leg on the FPB lifting arm is almost equal in length to the sear. So they move about the same amount. The FPB needs to have a greater travel than the sear. And so, we have the two piece sear. Once you figure them out and how to assemble, they are just as quick and easy as the one piece Jim Shooter Ready
  5. Limited pro is legal in IDPA with the safety changed to single sided or smaller units. The unit it comes with is too wide for box Some of the older ones with long beavertail are also too long for box as is without trimming Also, careful of grip and mag/basepad combos as they are close to weight limit Can be ssp or esp
  6. yes the black mags & black followers, gun prob has 300-400 rounds through it . I have a 38S barrel & a 9mm set up. Currently have a 6.0 & 8.5 spring. Maybe my G34 load is too short for the Tang ?? No my loads are all around 1.135. It not that picky on length. I run an 8lb spring with 124gr Xtreme RN bullets which run fine. Also I've ran 115 and 147 at that length with no issues. I also ran 100gr flat points, but I had to shorten the OAL to 1.045-1.060" so there was enough bullet in the case. You say you have a 38 Super barrel and a 9mm setup. Can you explain this a little more?
  7. Sorry didn't answer question. Dremel tool and cut off wheel used to grind it back
  8. If it runs, roll with it Fyi, sear leg is the small leg on the left side of sear that hangs down and is pushed by trigger bar
  9. It is out of time. When you replace the disco, you have retime it. The FPB runs on the sear. The new disco has the trigger bar and other moving parts, well, out of time. JB
  10. They all have that cut. It is required to clear the leg of the trigger return spring. It could be done a little less aggressively to make it look a little better.................
  11. The sear is not the problem. It is the overall relationship between double action release (ie, trigger bar position) and single action sear release. Choose which parts you want in the gun and then have someone that knows what they are doing make them all work together. In this case, the fix is the same as above. Cut the sear leg to enable the trigger bar to be further to the rear, this disengaging the double action before the hammer falls If you are not getting the results you want, again, call someone that know what they are doing, tell them what you want, and let them get it done. Jim B
  12. We fit the safety. And the reason is this. If the sear/hammer goes south in a match, you can drop in a new hammer/sear without any fitting, so long as the safety has already been relieved. If you fit the sear, then you have to do it every time.............. Just a thought; always more than one way to skin a cat. JB
  13. No problem Give me a call and I'll go over the options. Too many and too long to cover here. And I don't want to let too much detail out in a public forum.
  14. This is one of the few faults of this gun design. On some guns, they develop just enough slack (excess clearance) in the sear cage to frame fit to cause goofy issues like this. You will only notice it when two things happen: you actually move the sear cage by placing a lot of pressure on the thumb safety and you very precisely (ie, slowly) depress the trigger. It alters the geometry just enough that the hammer catches the half cock on the hammer. In a match, you are more forceful with trigger press and it doesn't happen. The jolt you feel is the hammer hitting the sear which is mounted in the sear cage of course. The fix? Multiple paths and all involve changing some parts Easiest is install new sear cage, sear and hammer (and possibly safety). Jim
  15. If your description is 100% accurate (".......hits the back of the firing pin stop but doesn't come through the hole"), then the firing pin retainer is not fitting exactly correct (dropping down while pin is out of the hole). Try putting a slight radius on the rear of the firing pin and make sure there is also a radius on the interior of the retainer plate. Also, I know it sounds bizarre but using another FP return spring, cut it back to be about 6 coils longer than the firing pin. Curious: what weight hammer spring are you using? Jim
  16. Won't run reliably. Failure to feed. Really picky about load profile and length. Combine that with light springs; recipe for disaster
  17. Andy be careful. To date all the 40 stock 3's imported were small frame. Small frame 40 sucks Some would say the stock 3 is muzzle heavy cause of the rail Single action is never gonna be as good on a da/sa as compared to a sa only gun Get a dedicated limited gun. Need one? Jim
  18. The leg on the sear is the part the trigger bar contacts to rotate the sear From shooting position, left hand of sear, bottom of cage Yea, if you need help, send it on Jim B
  19. You are correct in your statement. It is releasing the sa sear before the da has fully dis engaged If the trigger is otherwise good then the leg on the sa sear can be shortened to fix it
  20. If you are looking for a 40 Limited Custom, pm me. I have a lead on a matched pair with Henning parts--sights, magwell, grips, basepads/,mags. Distress sale--sick friend.
  21. None of the above. In the heat of the match, you are inserting the mag too hard at slide lock and either over inserting the mag or jamming the rounds up in the feed lips
  22. You are seating the bullets too long and the gun is barely going into battery. Some of the energy of the hammer is being lost. When you switched to a heavier recoil spring it is driving the slide and round fully forward. Try seating deeper or throating barrel The half cock deal; the hammer is actually bouncing back into half cock when dry fired. It won't do that with a round or dummy in chamber. Just the "wrong" length of firing pin return spring
  23. How deep are you seating your primers? They should be .005 to .008 below surface
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