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About to buy a 1050..


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I've been reading, researching and bugging Brian Enos for the past several weeks concerning buying a new 1050.

I load my .45acp and .223 on a 550 currently. I really, really want auto index and a case feeder. I kinda geek out on reloading gear and tools/equipment in general and the 1050 looks like an amazing machine for lots of reasons. The built in swager, prime on the down stroke, on and on. All looks great.

My goals for the 1050 would be:

1. Bulk load .45acp

2. 5.56/.223 brass prep

3. Bulk load .223

4. Quick deprime in .223, .45acp and .308

I'm ok with spending the money if the press is "that good".

My hesitation is in the caliber change. 20-30 minutes doesn't bother me. My .45acp brass is small primer, so everything is good to go with one priming setup. I've read so many "caliber changes take forever" sort if stuff that it has me second guessing buying the 1050.

Anyone wanna help convince me, or talk me into a 650?

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For me the worst part of a caliber change would be cost, not time. I guess if I had unlimited funds I might go with a 1050 but in all honesty my 650 with case feeder and bullet feeder is enough press for anyone. I am confident I could manufacture and sell ammo using a fully loaded 650. The difference in cost just doesn't add up for me. Throw in the fact that the 1050 is not actually covered under the no BS warranty and it becomes a non starter for me. But then again you don't read much about them breaking so maybe the warranty is not that big of a deal?

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I have never used the 1050, but I love the 650.

Once you make a few mods to it, mainly the expended primer chute, and the live primer ski jump fix, the press is fantastic. These mods are for convenience.

It's only weak points that I see mechanically is the Case Insert Slide and Cam. The thread inserts are relatively weak and don't tend to stay tight (at least for me). I have modded mine so it's no longer an issue. The other is the Station 1 Locator (caliber specific). It's made from die cast zinc and can be nicked far to easily. I'm considering making some from tool steel.

Other than that, I agree with Sarge, you can easily make top quality ammo for competition or resale.

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Having owned a 650 and now owning several 1050s, the 650 caliber changes can be a bit quicker. I can't honestly understand the obsession with "speed" for caliber changes. Unless you are is some kind of reloading/caliber change competition, time shouldn't be a big deal, but what do I know?

If you buy a large and small primer system already set up for the 650 (I did, it's more affordable than doing the same for a 1050), caliber changes are simplified and even faster. If you don't need the swaging of the 1050, then a 650 is a great alternative. I finally sold my 650 for dedicated 1050s to make my life easier. I am also loading a lot of crimped brass so the built-in swager was a godsend. A tricked-out 650 can load a ton of ammo at a very good clip.

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Its all a learning experience, do it a few times and its becomes second nature.

The built in swaging is worth the expense of the press as others have said.

Time wasted in something you can't afford.

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A full-featured 650 with separate swager is only a few hundred dollars less than a 1050. The 1050 comes standard with case feeder and setup with a caliber - including dies. Honestly, the money isn't that far apart.

Where the money starts to add up is if you buy dedicated tool heads for all your calibers. If you simply use the same tool head, it isn't so bad. Caliber conversion kits are more expensive too, but there is a lot of crossover. Depending on the calibers, you can probably just buy certain pieces to save money.

For me, the 1050 is a pleasure to operate and is very time efficient once setup.

I am glad I got the 1050.

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

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1st post but long time lurker, i was in the same spot as the op and just said to hell with it and got the 1050. the majority of what im gonna load is 223 and 9mm, so for my needs it maybe overkill but hey you only live once and time is so precious.

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I appreciate all of the input!

Which bullet feeder is the one to get?

Mr Bullet feeder seems to be the one to get. I keep thinking about trying it out but I am afraid that if I get one then all my machines will want one. If u buy a 1050 for each caliber that you reload then you don't have to worry about caliber changes :closedeyes: I own 3! and just got a case pro which is now my new favorite time saver!!!

Jeff

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you should probably ask a couple of questions:

do you want/need a swaging station. unless you buy mil brass you wont need it for 45. if your 223 is for benchrest type stuff you might want it for the 223.

what kind of volume do you want to load in 45?

what kind of volume of 223?

since you already have a 550 set-up I would make that the 223 machine and buy a 650 for 45. a tricked out 650 with case feeder and bullet feeder will be cheaper than the 1050, and there's nothing wrong with doing 223 on the 550.

if on the other hand you are shooting 300+ roudns of 223 a week and the same in 45, then suddenly the 1050 with 2 calibre conversions makes sense.

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I was in the same quandary and ended up with a 1050 as a first press, soon followed by a second 1050 (I got a nice tax refund). Initially, I got the second press because I was supplying two shooters with 30k of 9mm and 223. Any caliber change seemed like it would take up too much time. After spending 3 years with the presses, the best move would have been to get just one press, a 1050, and multiple tool heads. With multiple toolheads, caliber change now takes me 10-15 min for LP/SP switches and about 5 for no primer change. I shoot lots of mixed brass and NATO headstamp and not having to sort through brass saves a ton of time.

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Through the suggestion of another member, I use one tool head and put Hornady locking rings on all my 1050s dies. It's a quick changeover for a fraction of the cost.

I already use the Hornady lock rings. This is good to hear. I think I'll try it out this way at first.

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Through the suggestion of another member, I use one tool head and put Hornady locking rings on all my 1050s dies. It's a quick changeover for a fraction of the cost.

I already use the Hornady lock rings. This is good to hear. I think I'll try it out this way at first.

^Never thought of this, but... I am going to try it out:) Get new ideas everyday from this forum

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Was visiting my local commercial ammunition maker yesterday. He has dozens of Dillon 1050, 650, and 550 machines. Has the bullet feeders and the power operation on the 1050's.

He loads all his reman ammo (223, 308, 30-06 and 9mm, 38 Special, 357, 40 S&W, 45 ACP) on 1050 machines. He loads the rest of the pistol ammo on new brass on 650's. He loads the sporting rifle ammo on new brass on the 550's.

Staying within the same casehead shellplate and primer families and with dedicated toolheads for the 1050, watched him change cartridge setups in two minutes. Two minutes is all it takes. He keeps a socket wrench with the correct socket right by each 1050. Allen wrenches too if they are needed.

Edited by Hammer1
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I needed to get out and stretch my legs today, so I drove 150 miles to a reloading shop that had a 650 in stock. I kept an open mind and checked it out. Drove home without a new press. I'm sure I want the 1050.

Thanks for all of the advice and info!

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Through the suggestion of another member, I use one tool head and put Hornady locking rings on all my 1050s dies. It's a quick changeover for a fraction of the cost.

I already use the Hornady lock rings. This is good to hear. I think I'll try it out this way at first.

Works great for me, as I didn't have room for 12 toolheads setting around , another thing to cut cost is to try and pick-up used the parts needed to make-up caliber conversions verses buying complete kits think i'm down to around $65 a conversion now

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Through the suggestion of another member, I use one tool head and put Hornady locking rings on all my 1050s dies. It's a quick changeover for a fraction of the cost.

I already use the Hornady lock rings. This is good to hear. I think I'll try it out this way at first.

Works great for me, as I didn't have room for 12 toolheads setting around , another thing to cut cost is to try and pick-up used the parts needed to make-up caliber conversions verses buying complete kits think i'm down to around $65 a conversion now

Angus 6 is the member that gave me the suggestion!

Over the years suggestions from Angus have saved me a lot of money....Cost me a lot too! :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I can change a head in 10 mins. I have bought all the extra parts for all my heads. Yes, it is expensive but I do not have to change out the back up for the swagger, don't have to change out the powder drop, the bullet feeder, or any of the dies. It runs like a top and I love my 1050.

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  • 3 months later...

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