SevoTT

Stage descriptions are up. Looks fun. http://www.brm3g.com/#

I just measured some cases sized in my 9mm Udie and none were even close to .355. Most were around .350. I can't say exactly what the dimension is because all my cases were run through a 1050 with the swage/expander in place which expands the top portion of the case, but even so, the largest dimension near the case mouth was .352. So sounds like there is something wrong with your sizing step.

I load about 1200 and hour actual time with an rf100, 1050 with bullet feeder. Ditto. 600/hr for rifle. Spot check powder every 100. Brass already decapped, lubed.

I just got a second back up rod from Dillon, chucked it in a drill and filed/sanded the expander portion down to well below case neck diameter. I would not want to stress the case rim and shell plate by not using the backup rod.

CZspeed, For semi auto, I have had good luck with both Forster and Dillon full length sizers (unmodified and with a ball/decap pin), and both Redding and Forster micrometer seating dies if you are going to use more than one bullet. This setup gives me reliable neck tension in mixed brass. I use a Lee Factory Crimp die to take the bell out (I load on a 1050). There is a neat tool http://ballistictools.com/store/exclusive/case-mouth-gage-224-308 that lets you gauge your neck size so that you know what neck tension you are getting. For three gun, I just use the same headstamp brass to get consistent results. I mostly leave bushing dies and neck size dies to my 308 bolt gun. I do think that the Lee Collet neck sizing die makes a difference in my bolt gun, and for the <$25 that it costs, it is money well spent. I am experimenting with using it for making ammo for sniper comps where I use my semi auto, but I am using a mandrel that is .004 smaller than the standard mandrel and I am using a single stage press.

I think the initial "recipe" is meant for a bolt gun. Honing out the neck of the die is similar to using a bushing die. With a bushing die you can change the amount of sizing of the external part of the neck to adjust neck tension on your bullets. The .245 number would "roughly" lead to .001-.002 of neck tension, which is desirable for a bolt gun, but may lead to bullet setback in an autoloader. This recipe would work best for fire formed brass of a single headstamp. As far as your setup, sound OK except for the bushing die and the collet neck sizing die. If you run one headstamp, or brass with the same neck wall thickness at a time, the bushing die may be fine. Also some bushing dies do not size the whole length of the neck. I have not had much luck using the collet neck sizing die in a progressive press and the mandrel is designed to give proper neck tension for bolt guns, not autoloaders. You can order smaller mandrels which would work for autoloaders for like $5. Also, the bushing die and the collet die, kind of do the same thing (neck tension) in different ways. All of this is probably overkill in a semiauto.

The Lee collet die with a factory mandrel will leave you with about 1-2 thou of neck tension depending on the brass. This is fine for bolt guns, but if you are shooting a semi-auto, you will probably want a little more neck tension. Fortunately, you can order undersized mandrels from Lee for $5. Are you using a RT1200? If so, that die really squeezes the necks down tight. I usually end up with 5 thou of neck tension using this die depending on the brass. Check for a bent decapping/expander stem. This can lead to eccentric case necks and funky neck tension. I agree with reptoid, are your bullets really .2225?

Trigger?

I will second the Larue. I switch between an Aimpoint and a scope and have had good RTZ with the Larue QD but I did spend some time getting the levers set correctly and I try to use the same pressure when tightening the levers.

Primer seating depth adjustment is done on the toolhead. There should be no need to take the shell plate off. Changing tool heads will almost definitely require an initial resetting of primer seating depth. I don't have my 1050 manual with me, but if I recall, the adjustment is the hex between stations 3 and 4 on the top of the toolhead. It you look at the primer seating system which is just behind the swaging rod, there is a rocker with the primer seating punch on on end, and a place for the rod that comes from the toolhead on the other. Screwing the rod in makes the primers seat deeper. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

The chrono has a display on it which showed velocity for the last shot and I don't recall seeing anything else.

http://ateiguns.com/ They did a nice job on my M&P. I think they only do Glock and M&P though.

Just got one of these and took it out to the range today. Velocities seemed to be close to what I was getting with my Ohler, but I did not do a side by side comparison. The iPhone app was nice and worked well. I'lll try to do a side by side comparison in the coming weeks.

Another thing that can help is one of the aftermarket "reprofiled" casefeed cam plates. These feed the cases onto the shellplate a little slower. I will say that this will probably help more with taller, more wobbly rifle cases

I'm not sure what dies you are using, but I found that when I used plated bullets, a dead length type seating die (with the proper seating stem), and an EGW U-die, that the seating die would actually deform the bullet tip a little producing a flat spot, which would lead to different OAL's. This was using mixed brass with varying wall thicknesses which I think lead to different bullet seating force. I improved this by getting a "custom" seating stem and ditching the U-die for the softer plated bullets.

Make sure that the lock ring is not too loose. Also, I break and polish the edges on the shellplate where the case feeds in.

I forgot about the one that i use the most, the Redding instant indicator. I just leave it set up in my turret press. I have used most of the methods listed above, and all will give a slightly different measurement since they measure off of a different datum point on the shoulder. The Redding comes with a calibration case, but I just set zero to a once fired case from my chamber.

I had a similar problem when the slot in the primer arm/cam assembly got knocked out of alignment with the cam guide bolt(14286). The misalignment caused the timing/travel of the primer shuttle to be "off" and get stopped by the primer punch.

RCBS precision mic set.

Bulllet feeder great for high volume reloading, but you loose powder check station. Pistol lube-Hornady one shot Rifle lube- Dillon Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I talked with the VV folks at shot, and they said "summer" when I asked about availability. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I had a similar issue after taking my RF100 apart to clean. I fixed it by backing off the screw to the left of the primer outlet on the underside.

Do what mcracco says. I use a lot of these bullets, some guns need 1.11 and some like my SVI like 1.17.

I've got one and love it. Like ktm300 says, you can really crank out the ammo with a bullet feeder and RF100. What convinced me to buy one and a hygrometer, was this thread http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=139159&hl=

I've seen this too on WCC brass. I use a ton of this brass and have found that using a Pow'r punch for decapping and actually watching the primer fall into the cup decreases the incidence. If you just pop the primer top off, it makes a smaller "tink" as it hits the cup and dust falls out of the primer pocket. I also inspect the primer pockets after tumbling and the partially removed primer is easy to spot. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD