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Light primer strikes


Wrinkles

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Thats sort of like saying "if you like your 8 cyl running on 6 cyls, just drive slower" !! :roflol::roflol::roflol:

If you have an "extra power firing pin spring", put the standard one back in. A stock 1911 should effortlessly ignite any small rifle primer with no problem at all.

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Agree above clean and check firing pin and spring, Which primers are you using. Federal takes the lightest hit then Winchester CCI can be hard requiring a heavier mainspring. 17lb mainspring should work.

Simple test to check mainspring and firing pin is to drop a yellow pencil down the barrel, point the barrel up and pull the trigger should move up about a foot or better. If this test passes you have some hard primers. This of course need to be done with an unloaded firearm.

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Agree above clean and check firing pin and spring, Which primers are you using. Federal takes the lightest hit then Winchester CCI can be hard requiring a heavier mainspring. 17lb mainspring should work.

Simple test to check mainspring and firing pin is to drop a yellow pencil down the barrel, point the barrel up and pull the trigger should move up about a foot or better. If this test passes you have some hard primers. This of course need to be done with an unloaded firearm.

"This of course need to be done with an unloaded firearm".

Or. you will have one hell of a time finding that pencil

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The pistol is a stock Springfield ,had a 12.5 lbs recoil spring in it changed to a 14 lbs. Cleaned the firing pin tunnel and the whole gun as well. The pencil only went up about 2 feet. Save my Federal primers for my revolvers.

Use Winchester primers 3.7 grs of Alliant E -3 , with a 147 gr. Xtreem bullet. I paid more attention to my reloads and will try it tomorrow.

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The recoil spring really doesn't have any effect on the primer strike. The mainspring will, I don't use anything but 17lb ones, but, a number of people use 15s and don't seem to have any problems. I don't know what primers they use.

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Steve,

Do you couple that 17 pound mainspring with a titanium firing pin?

I have a loaded 9mm that i use a 23 pound mainspring with and i wanted to try a 17 pounder to shave some weight off of the trigger. The slide is awfully hard to rack with the current 23 pound hammer spring.

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During the loading process primer should be .004 deep not flush. Stock firing pin, 17lb main spring should go bang.

Springer's have a lock in the main spring housing I would replace the mainspring plunger. You'll also need the small pin that holds the plunger in the main spring housing. May need to purchase a replacement pin set to get these parts. It's always a good idea to have a few pins around anyway. Easy way to install is to put a punch in a vice, compress the plunger and spring, insert the small pin from the inside of the housing.

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I used to use everything titanium but the sear in an open gun. Course you can't get the hammers anymore. With everything titanium the gun would run everything but Remington 7 1/2s which were the hardest back then. That was with a 17lb spring.

Now I just run all steel and still the 17lb mainsprings. Both my 1911s, .45 and 9mm, run rifle primers perfectly. These are SP .45 cases, of course.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm having a similar issue.

Kimber Custom II .45. About 1.5k rounds through it.

I just put in the Extreme Engineering - Extreme Ultimate Trigger Kit - Lite Speed + EGW sear spring + 17# ISMI mainspring. This is the only mechanical change from stock on the gun.

I had about 6 or 7 light primer strikes in a match. I changed the mainspring to 18# (Kimber stock is 21#). Just had the same issue in practice. About 4-5 in 75 rounds.

I inspected before practice for high primers, so I am doubtful that caused it.

Would y'all recommend trying a longer firing pin first? I am having trouble finding an extended firing pin for a .45. Any advice?

Am I crazy for trying to run a 17# mainspring in my .45?

thanks for your help.

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Apparently that EGW O/S pin for 45 is not extended length. I can't find an extended length .093 (GI) pin for 45 anywhere. Any help in locating one would be appreciated.

I plan on deleting the Schwartz this weekend, cleaning the firing pin hole, and installing that EGW O/S pin anyway. I would love to not go to a 19# mainspring, as I'm getting further away from the light trigger I was trying to achieve with the kit and 17# main spring.

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Delete the Schwartz safety, that may be your problem.

Exactly! I started having a problem with my Kimber end of last year, after not shooting it for a while. It has the stock mainspring, so that wasn't it. What ended up being the problem was a change in my grip. A higher grip was activating the grip safety enough to release the trigger, but not enough to release the firing pin block. The unfired cartridges had no firing pin indent at all. I verified this at home by inserting a pencil down the barrel, and pulling the trigger with various degrees of pressure on the grip safety. If the firing pin block was released, the pencil would be ejected out of the gun by the firing pin hitting the back of it. Yet, many times, I could drop the hammer, without the firing pin being released. Someone gave me a GI firing pin, which doesn't have the cutout for the firing pin block, and it solved my problem.

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