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Syrac gas block siezed.


Therealkoop

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Yup. It doesnt move, at all. Id like to turn the gas down a bit now that I went from a FA to a lightweight carrier but its not happenin'. The allenhead is so small that the tool just want to strip it instead of move it.

Anyone else having issues with it? I emailed Syrac a long while back but was never responded to.

Actually a thought just dawned on me while typing this, I'm going to magdump a whole hell of a lot of rounds and get it piping hot, then try again.

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That is not that uncommon with adjustables. Heat won't fix it either.

Muzzle down, squirt a little CLP, FrogLube, or other "thicker" solvent down the gas tube and let it sit for 24 hours.

I used to just take the gas block off and put the comp and the gasblock in a bottle of CLP for 24 hours. Rinse it out and try the screw. The threads get gas cut, then filled with carbon and some copper and if you do pull it out, it can damage the threads rendering the block useless.

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Aluminum gas block??? soak it in Wyndex glass cleaner.

No kidding......little trick I've learned about aluminum that seizes...this works better than oil. I've used it on aluminum/aluminum and aluminum/steel

FYI....This little trick will work ANYTHING aluminum that's stuck.....not just aluminum gas blocks.

Tim

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Just an FYI, Windex has ammonia in it. The reason it will loosen seized AL is because it puts the protective oxide layer into solution. You would essentially be removing a small layer as well as creating some slight pitting. That layer will then reform once the ammonia is gone and it is in contact with air for a while. AL/AL interface essentially shares a protects layer thus the bond strength can be pretty high over time. This is why we anodize AL. That formed oxidation layer is much tougher than the formed layer due to exposure to air. AL/SS creates a degrading galvanic corrosion cell and is one of those interfaces that design engineers need to be careful with.

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My Syrac block carbons up and can't be adjusted with the long tools that came with the block. I usually have to take off the foreand and use more torque to adjust it. I like the system, but it's not good if you want to make frequent adjustments like between suppressed and unsuppressed operation.

Doug

Edited by Doug H.
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My Syrac locked up too. I'm now installing the cool Seekins Precision field adjustable gas blocks. What's the word on the street about those?

I much prefer clamp on gas blocks as opposed to set screws. So it would be a no for me.

I tried a clamp on but they are so close to touching the hand guard. I couldn't get a rail but under it either. Plus I didn't notice any benefit either. Am I missing something?

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My Syrac locked up too. I'm now installing the cool Seekins Precision field adjustable gas blocks. What's the word on the street about those?

I much prefer clamp on gas blocks as opposed to set screws. So it would be a no for me.

I tried a clamp on but they are so close to touching the hand guard. I couldn't get a rail but under it either. Plus I didn't notice any benefit either. Am I missing something?

With a clamp on you get a tighter fit that is even throughout the circumference of the barrel so it basically fits up tighter and seals the gas better. Also no need to dimple the barrel for proper installation. They are easier to remove if needed, as quite often you will get a burr under the set-screws. I've also read that set screws can also add a stress point to the barrel. That said, I've never personally seen a barrel pick up accuracy from switching over to a clamp on block, but the concept seems valid. With the set screws your gas block is attached just with pressure on the top and the bottom, so as the barrel and gas block heat up I can see how things might move around.

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My Syrac locked up too. I'm now installing the cool Seekins Precision field adjustable gas blocks. What's the word on the street about those?

I much prefer clamp on gas blocks as opposed to set screws. So it would be a no for me.
I tried a clamp on but they are so close to touching the hand guard. I couldn't get a rail but under it either. Plus I didn't notice any benefit either. Am I missing something?

With a clamp on you get a tighter fit that is even throughout the circumference of the barrel so it basically fits up tighter and seals the gas better. Also no need to dimple the barrel for proper installation. They are easier to remove if needed, as quite often you will get a burr under the set-screws. I've also read that set screws can also add a stress point to the barrel. That said, I've never personally seen a barrel pick up accuracy from switching over to a clamp on block, but the concept seems valid. With the set screws your gas block is attached just with pressure on the top and the bottom, so as the barrel and gas block heat up I can see how things might move around.

I wouldn't mind if they didn't leak that's for sure!

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