b18prl Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 John, I had both the sear spring from stock cz and trs from cgw in my s2 but only cz sear spring stays, cow trs won't last you at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magsz Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 John, I had both the sear spring from stock cz and trs from cgw in my s2 but only cz sear spring stays, cow trs won't last you at all. Wait...what? Care to clarify on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogiebb Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 cut off 14lb hammer spring for me .. feels better than the 13Lb long hammer spring...still good enough for Win sm pistol primers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 John, I had both the sear spring from stock cz and trs from cgw in my s2 but only cz sear spring stays, cow trs won't last you at all. Wait...what? Care to clarify on that? CGW trs spring didn't last at all in my s2, I've noticed the reset got weaker and weaker after 1000-1500 rounds so I switched it back to stock trs but it works just fine in my Shadow. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the different trigger travel between s2 and Shadow. Because when I pulled the cgw out of my s2 after 1500 rounds it doesn't look anywhere near the fresh one, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 just MOIIRM,...I prefer a good trigger return spring. you want a positive reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 just MOIIRM,...I prefer a good trigger return spring. you want a positive reset. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prov1x Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 just MOIIRM,...I prefer a good trigger return spring. you want a positive reset. MOIIRM ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 just MOIIRM,...I prefer a good trigger return spring. you want a positive reset. MOIIRM ???? hahahahaha….yeah what is it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 great..appreciate all the info. have tried changing out different spring, etc. trying for that magic combo of light DA, crisp SA, no stacking and run more primers than just Federal. still at it. that is the stock 2 shooters dream! let me know when you crack it. trigger jobs are ok, but when you have a tanfog that will only ignite federals and federals are getting hard to get you have a problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 My Opinion If it really matters....LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 I find I get last stacking with a 14lb hammer spring, but overall the trigger is heavier in DA. I prefer the 13lb, but lately had some issues with Winchester primered ammo from DA only...Ie: first shot. I try to use all federal primed ammo. I am currently using the Xtreme firing pin, but in order to stay production legal, I have to use the firing pin block. The firing pin block is what causes all the problems with light strikes. it sometimes gets stuck if the firing pin is dirty or the block is dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilfred Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 So you can use CZ parts on a Stock 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Extractor...slide stop..mag release...trigger...etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 ammo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onagoth Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I find I get last stacking with a 14lb hammer spring, but overall the trigger is heavier in DA. I prefer the 13lb, but lately had some issues with Winchester primered ammo from DA only...Ie: first shot. I try to use all federal primed ammo. I am currently using the Xtreme firing pin, but in order to stay production legal, I have to use the firing pin block. The firing pin block is what causes all the problems with light strikes. it sometimes gets stuck if the firing pin is dirty or the block is dirty. Removing the FP block takes you out of production? Is this from the rule book? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 (edited) yes. FPB needs to be there to be legal. Both USPSA and IPSC (i believe). ill edit this later for a reference but if you have a rulebook its in the appendix. EDIT: appendix d4. 22. (2010 ed. USPSA) Edited December 16, 2013 by Torogi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 it certainly is the case in IPSC. FPB must be there and working to be legal in IPSC production division. it's a shame. it's probably the one thing I wish the stock 2 had (or didn't have) that the CZ shadow does. remove the FPB and use a longer rats tail and longer hammer spring like the CZ and the thing would be just about a perfect production gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onagoth Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 (edited) For my education, which IPSC rule is it that prohibits the removal of the FP block? The USPSA rule book is pretty clear about it. Edited December 17, 2013 by Onagoth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 For my education, which IPSC rule is it that prohibits the removal of the FP block? The USPSA rule book is pretty clear about it. well, i googled IPSC rules, 2012 and its under Appendix D4. 16.1. You are only allowed to minor detailing and only to mess with it if you are fitting on OFM part. NOTE: I dont shoot IPSC. just trying to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onagoth Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Thank you, but I'm not convinced removal of parts is covered by it. IMO, 16.1 discussions modifications to original parts, not removing them. I am reinforced by this in the reading of the pre-amble to 16.1, which states "16. Original parts and components offered by the OFM as standard equipment, or as an option, for a specific model handgun on the IPSC approved handgun list are permitted, subject to the following:" I thought it might be covered under some general rule about disabling safety devices, but even that rule only applies to external safeties, and it would apply to all divisions. From what I have read, removal of the FP block should not bump you out of production.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babo_al Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) It will , don't do it , that assuming you get checked , last world shoot in Greece they opened the slide on my stock two and turned the gun upside down so they can visually see the block during the equipment check . Edited December 18, 2013 by babo_al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Im curious why would one take out the FPB for Stock2/3 for PD. EGs firing pin is an extended one that will work with the FPB. I would understand if its done with CZ, disabling the lifter on the sear changing to a shadow sear or a spacer would reduce the reset tremendously, but with Tanfoglio, it was ingeniously made that the FPB is activated downwards. Part of the sear (1pc sear) dips lowering the FPB. Again, with CZ, the lifting of the FPB is also part of the trigger pull so it adds to the DA. So taking it out doesn't make any sense. Unless one is using an extended FP that is not compatible with the FPB. OR i got it all wrong=( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babo_al Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) On the new triggers that Tanfoglios comes with now days { 2 peace sear } the leaver that deactivate the FPB is separated from the sear and has a spring on its own , that mean you will have to go against one more spring as you pull the trigger . Edited December 18, 2013 by babo_al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 ^ thanks for that. Actually my other stock 2 came with 2pc sear similar to the CZ. I found out that those are more expensive (in parts), so i took the gamble and changed it to a single piece sear and it worked! in my opinion side by side, 1pc sear is better. crisper break and more consistent DA. So i guess when you have a 2pc sear, change that to 1 and keep the FPB. Its an OFM so it should be ok. Rather than leaving out the FPB. Note: I dont shoot IPSC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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