babo_al

" Cut 2 coil plunger spring " reverse this and try out again

Yes there are 2 different ones , if using 2 piece sear you will need the uneven one , for one piece sear both models will work.On the 2 piece sear the part of the sear that engages the firing pin safety rotates /activates independently from the main body of sear from the right site of trigger bar.

Here is my 9mm stock 2 converted to open the comp was based on the custom tanfoglios made by a gunsmith in Germany. Dimensions are probably different as I had to match it to my slide as best I could. Had a friend of mine thread the barrel and come up with the rough shapes than did some final detailing on my mill. Tracks well for a 9mm a bit jumpy but they all are anyway.

LSPA : Literally Stupid Product Acronyms

Had a chance to shoot on a match that Eric G participated here in Canada this weekend and got some new factory hammer springs and firing pin springs from him. The new hammer spring seam to be very similar to wolf 13 lb in length but the wire was thinner compare to wolf about 0.028 diameter according to my caliber .The firing pin spring was a shorter version of the original factory one. Later today I noticed that they were also available on his online shop. Installed a set on my stock 2 and seam to be very similar to what I was getting using wolf springs, I guess the benefit with it is the legality of parts used in production division.

whatever parts you replaced to it made your double action incomplete, you call it short but the interrupter is slipping away from trigger bow before the hammer gets fully cocked and that gun will not fire in double action sorry for the bad news I am sure by now you have already confirmed that on the range anyway

if any one has a set of henning small frame checkered black grips full length no magwell that is not getting any action let me know , his stuff is a bit hard to get here and need a set for my new extreme stock 2 { now I am counting the days before our distributor gets his first shipment }

Well I think with my small paws I don't need one , I really don't see the benefit of it, the curved trigger on my stock 2 makes it easy for me to get the first double actin shoot without stretching to far to reach for it , and is even better on single action very close to the frame. This could work for someone that prefers long triggers assuming the mechanics are the same it will not change the length of the over travel or pre travel the trigger bow will engage the sear same way just that the trigger shoe itself will be a bit forward from the frame that's all. Not a big fan of flat triggers on pivot trigger systems like Tanfoglios , the curve on the trigger will force you a consistent finger position every time , with the flat one considering this is just a lever that pivots against the pin how you position you finger on the trigger could reflect different trigger pull/ different reset And yes coming of the holster you will get that trigger finger in different places no matter how much dry fire you do.The worst scenario is position finger to high on it , it will result in a horrible pull and certainly very strange reset. It works perfect on strait pull triggers systems though like 1911 type ... just my 2cents

from my own man cave https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK2z9iiH_3M

Is possible he may not have done the work by himself ether, but I think a new xtreme hammer and some other small parts will make this a perfect gun in no time

At this point I am not sure if the it was the top sear leg or the safety notch from the picture the safety notch looks that had some work done so it may be that he removed material from it and not from the sear, look under the top sear leg to see if that was modified if not and than you change whatever was modified or both ...

Well the stock 3 does not come with that type hammer , so the hammer is replaced ether with an xtreme or just the regular delta hammer.{ cant tell from the pictures } You will never know if the safety fitting has been done before or after the new hammer replacement this is important cuz different model hammers engage sear in different angles and they affect the relation of the sear leg to the safety notch. The way it is now you may fail the safety check on a big match. But the good news is that almost all can be fixed by getting new parts. Since you are taking pictures hope some detailed sear picture and safety pictures could help create an idea of the "work"done. { hopefully by now you know how to take the sear apart from the sear cage}

There are different length factory screws m3 I believe you can install on your trigger shoe in case you think you get bumped in open for removing the existing one { I doubt this will happen } This problem could also be an indication that during the trigger job some material was removed from the sear leg that engages the trigger bow trying to shorten the reset if so a new sear is not a big job to install. Look at the hammer strut hope yours is the new design this will somehow leave more room for the spring to compress and help with stacking. Dawson makes very good front sights for Tanfoglios longer than factory and extreme sights, they typically can make one in a short time even if they are out of stock .

one of them , look for marks on bridge face extractor or unusual marks on slide stop

Just my opinion , I don't mean to discourage you , hard to find .45 brass and bullets for a decent price to be able to shoot lots and practise. Your 9mm will get you in standard minor but that wont be completive ether in a match, though still good for practise. So really, finding .40 top end and combining it with a large frame for max bullet overall length will be the best of all scenarios. As per matches you know we are buried in snow here , hope the weather turns better so we can have few months of matches and outdoor practise in preparation for world shoot.

.45 for standard is not the best choice , so is the small frame in .40 as it limits your choice of powders while limiting you overall length but you already told me that this is large frame , well I guess I let you give it a try and tell us later how that worked out in a match.

Looks nice on pictures , but just wondering , small frame , .40 cal , short bullets max about 1.113" pads don't fit the uspsa or ipsc box what was the purpose behind this build cuz don't look much like a competition gun to me.

If you have removed the small pin on the left side there is nothing else that hold the hammer pin in place but friction with the frame .Get a bigger hammer, that simple , you can't get it out just by pushing it. Once removed polish or run the pin under the drill press with some 2000 grid paper so it goes in smooth next time. Yes I have come across of some oversized hammer pins that need a good tap { pin comes out from the left side } to get them out.

I had one of those Australian stock 2 last year right after selling the stock 3 { all small frames } it points just fine but a bit unbalance for my taste and front heavy { sorry my opinion } As for the triggers all of them come with the 2 peace sear now days , so it was no difference between them. The new extreme parts that I lately installed on my old stock 2 { old standard version } made reset shorter and I think they are a keeper for now. So for me was a round circle tried them all and ended back to the same old stock 2 model I had with some extreme parts in it.

Quite the opposite , stock 3 has a longer overall barrel and slide and lots more weight on the front than stock 2, this makes for a slow transition from target to target, on top of that because the skinny barrel and full size slide you get more recoil impulse from that heavy chunk of metal coming back and forward every time you pull the trigger .

Same process as fitting 1911 barrel on the slide , make sure barrel hood clears the bridge face of the slide , go slow by removing very little material at the time from the barrel hood { paint with marker and look for contact points } until there is full contacts between barrel lugs and slide. If there any need to modify the barrel lugs measure them first with micrometer { with and depth} and see if they match the same dimension on the slide. There is a lot more to it so if in doubt don't mess with it .... leave it to the one that does it for living

Just few thinks to check before you replace parts, First remove the slide so you can have a better picture of the safety / sear engagement Move safety up and see if the safety notch goes under the sear , if not ether the safety notch has been modified or the tip of the sear may have been shortened. If the safety notch goes under the sear press the trigger and see if there is any movement of the sear it should be none when pressing the trigger, in the event the sear still moves and the notch is is not tall enough to prevent the tip of the sear moving down inspect both the safety notch and under the sear tip to see if there is material that has been removed from ether part. This just to help you determined what part has been modified or damaged as per replacing the parts I think you better bring it to someone that makes a living repairing guns. hope this help below some pictures explaining the sear /safety notch engagement .

factory sights are 0.145" x 0.110" fiber is 1.5 mm

nicely done it seam that the front of it is designed so it does not stuck on the hole if one was to install a shorter spring on firing pin

On the new triggers that Tanfoglios comes with now days { 2 peace sear } the leaver that deactivate the FPB is separated from the sear and has a spring on its own , that mean you will have to go against one more spring as you pull the trigger .