perfecting Glock trigger pull, break, and reset

[zachvu]

I have decided it is time to reveal most of the secrets. I have given several of you various hints on how to do this. The first step is to knock out the little pin that retains the plastic finger pad. You will need to support the other side or you will break out the whole side of the pad. I tap the pin a little to mark the other size then weaken that point a little with a grinder. Drive the pin all the way out. Now the pad is free of the bar.
Note where the hole is in the bar. You will need to move this hole up the "leg" about .120". You may have to play with this dimension a little as Glock uses more than one supplier of trigger bars. I have found it to be pretty close though.
The next thing to do is relocate the pivot hole in the pad. This is the tricky part. Where you locate this hole will determine where the trigger bar releases the striker. I have three different trigger pad "standards". These are pads that I use to transfer the hole location from one pad to another. Each causes a different striker release point. Remember those statements where I said one can cause the trigger bar to release the striker at different points without the use of an overtravel stop.
The next step is to bend the trigger return spring tab forward. This does two things. It will limit the pretravel and at the same time put more tension on the spring. Don't bend it too far forward or you will disable the striker safety plunger. You want the little tab on the top of the trigger bar to just be touching the plunger. Be sure to heat the tab or it will break when you try to bend it. I clamp the bar in a vise and use a screwdriver to bend the tab
Next step is to trim back the little safety lever on the plastic trigger pad. It has a little "L" shaped nub on the end. You will need to remove material back to where the nub ends or just before.
I like the LWD connector best of all. If you want a really short crisp 3# trigger use an 8# connector. Use a lwt striker spring and you will have a sub 2# trigger. I you experiment a little you can get a 1# trigger.
Attached is a picture of a relocated trigger pad. Let's get those grinders and drills cranked up.
Why am I doing this? First of all I don't need the money. Secondly there are those that IMO overcharge for their services.
BTW do these modifications at your own risk. Always make certain you maintain sufficient striker/trigger bar engagement.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52311 is the link to the original thread. There is much more discussion on it including bits to use, hole locations others have used, and all the other normal forum stuff!!

[JOHNNYBOSS]

Johnny boss, I don't follow what you attempted to describe? Are you referring to follow through while the trigger resets? If so then under this condition safety plunger is disengaged by fin as it would under factory and fulcrum as designed.<br />

I'm referring to the 3 safeties and the process of disengagement during normal fire cycle. 1st the trigger tab safety disengages then next the drop safety in the trigger housing itself,you know the 2 shelfs, the horizontal part of the cruciform rests on two shelves so if you drop the gun the sear won't drop off the striker lug face due to inertia. last is the firing pin plunger safety. so you can reduce pre travel to the point that you have disengaged the 2nd drop safety but not the 3rd. I see it all the time in kitchen top gunsmiths guns. Put the orange back plate on and push down on the cruciform if it can drop the striker then you have taken too much pre travel out and the gun is unsafe.

Also I can't wait to hear how many trigger bars anyone destroys doing the joe d thing there are way better ways to reduce travel than that

[JOHNNYBOSS]

If your going to do the Joe d thing you better get a diamond grinder on the bar to prep the area before you try to drill it just wait till your drill bit bends snaps and ends up... look just be careful

[JOHNNYBOSS]

If anyone wants to know how to get the best trigger ever just email me personally as a member. I don't feel comfortable putting out this zen trigger knowledge to the general public but it's much much simpler than the Joe d thing. also when I got absolutely every nano meter of pre travel out of my 34 it was like having to get used to shooting all over again. The gun no longer felt like a glock feels. So careful for what you wish the pre travel is the Glock feel like a member stated earlier it's a double action gun but I guess you have to experience a glock with NO pre travel to really get it. If you shoot alot of different guns it's not an issue but if your a glock guy your brain is going to get confused!!!

[Stician]

Johnny boss, I don't follow what you attempted to describe? Are you referring to follow through while the trigger resets? If so then under this condition safety plunger is disengaged by fin as it would under factory and fulcrum as designed.

I'm referring to the 3 safeties and the process of disengagement during normal fire cycle. 1st the trigger tab safety disengages then next the drop safety in the trigger housing itself,you know the 2 shelfs, the horizontal part of the cruciform rests on two shelves so if you drop the gun the sear won't drop off the striker lug face due to inertia. last is the firing pin plunger safety. so you can reduce pre travel to the point that you have disengaged the 2nd drop safety but not the 3rd. I see it all the time in kitchen top gunsmiths guns. Put the orange back plate on and push down on the cruciform if it can drop the striker then you have taken too much pre travel out and the gun is unsafe.

Also I can't wait to hear how many trigger bars anyone destroys doing the joe d thing there are way better ways to reduce travel than that

The Fulcrum scalloped form keeps all 3 safeties working. The standard zev trigger without scalloped form moves trigger shoe closer but not to the point of disengaging it. There is no magic to tuning glock triggers. There is a mechanical balance depending on POU. Zev has the solutions and everything else is just a variation of the process using oem parts or downright copy of their cnc'd metal design.

[JOHNNYBOSS]

there's nothing on the zev website about the scalloped form you're talking about. Zev has the solutions for an arm and a leg and none of that stuff has been patented because its not distinguishable from ome. gunsmith have been using set screws to create fulcrum points since day one.Zev is not unique it's just another trigger on the market.you said it yourself its just a mechanical tweek here and there. but I will take an explanation of that scalloped form you're talking about

[RaylanGivens]

The ramp that pushes the firing pin safety plunger up is "scalloped" or ground in an arc so that the trigger bar can be pushed further to the rear (to eliminate pre-travel) without pushing the safety plunger up.

I have one of the original GlockWorx competition triggers with a welded piece to shorten pre-travel. A friend liked mine and ordered one. He mentioned that his had a scalloped cut on the safety plunger ramp. We compared our triggers and his was different. His had the scalloped cut out and mine didn't. Mine was flat (normal). I guess his newer trigger bar was a version 2 and mine was an older version......

[JOHNNYBOSS]

okay then that word scalloped is a general machinists term.this whole trigger thing comes down to the minusha.its fun and we have been working with CNC designs for all kind of cool stuff with the Glocks like taking ome firing pins and fixture them to be cut as a extended pin as well as pressing a NEW design for connector and bar engagement that's gonna really be a game changer especially for the gen 4's! it's a really exciting time right now in fire arms history. I do get it with Zev they improved on the original design.now it's time to improve again beyond anything out there.thanks for the explanation if you would be willing to sign NDA I can send you some prototypes

[Apexer]

okay then that word scalloped is a general machinists term.this whole trigger thing comes down to the minusha.its fun and we have been working with CNC designs for all kind of cool stuff with the Glocks like taking ome firing pins and fixture them to be cut as a extended pin as well as pressing a NEW design for connector and bar engagement that's gonna really be a game changer especially for the gen 4's! it's a really exciting time right now in fire arms history. I do get it with Zev they improved on the original design.now it's time to improve again beyond anything out there.thanks for the explanation if you would be willing to sign NDA I can send you some prototypes

I'm game! Where do I sign?

[unclebud]

Johnny, sent you a pm to get more info on getting rid of pre-travel.

[otasan56]

I use a Glock 3.5 connector in my G17. It works well and 100%

[JBP55]

I tried the trigger bar I received from JohnnyBoss today and it worked great. Short smooth pull with a good break and good reset.

[Apexer]

okay then that word scalloped is a general machinists term.this whole trigger thing comes down to the minusha.its fun and we have been working with CNC designs for all kind of cool stuff with the Glocks like taking ome firing pins and fixture them to be cut as a extended pin as well as pressing a NEW design for connector and bar engagement that's gonna really be a game changer especially for the gen 4's! it's a really exciting time right now in fire arms history. I do get it with Zev they improved on the original design.now it's time to improve again beyond anything out there.thanks for the explanation if you would be willing to sign NDA I can send you some prototypes

I tried the trigger bar I received from JohnnyBoss today and it worked great. Short smooth pull with a good break and good reset.

I'm game to test one!

[JBP55]

okay then that word scalloped is a general machinists term.this whole trigger thing comes down to the minusha.its fun and we have been working with CNC designs for all kind of cool stuff with the Glocks like taking ome firing pins and fixture them to be cut as a extended pin as well as pressing a NEW design for connector and bar engagement that's gonna really be a game changer especially for the gen 4's! it's a really exciting time right now in fire arms history. I do get it with Zev they improved on the original design.now it's time to improve again beyond anything out there.thanks for the explanation if you would be willing to sign NDA I can send you some prototypes

I tried the trigger bar I received from JohnnyBoss today and it worked great. Short smooth pull with a good break and good reset.

I'm game to test one!

Do like I did and purchase one. Everyone would test them if they were free.

[PINMAN44]

I'm interested in your design Johnny, I'd love to learn more.

[theblacknight]

The skimmer trigger has been shown to NOT retain all safeties.

I use the GW V4 connector aside from the polish and the gen 4 bump delete on my g4 g17. I don't change springs so I can shoot whatever primers and ammo are around. Nato and Tula primer pop fine.

[enutees]

I ordered one Johnnys drop in trigger set ups for my G35 I'm setting up for limited. Cost was $120 shipped. I'm coming from CZs for many years so I'm not a Glock expert by any means. My G34 has a Vanek Classic trigger in it. That is the only trigger I have for comparison. Install took about 10 minutes but I'm pretty sure most of the drop ins are similar. Anyway, I'm really impressed. It is just slightly heavier than my Vanek but the pretravel is almost entirely gone. It is really a drastic difference. It is very crisp for a glock. The reset is almost the exact same as the Vanek.

I would say at this point I prefer it just based on dry fire and the amazing lack of pretravel (yes trigger safety is still working). I'm going to shoot it next week a little and see how it performs but A+ so far.

[JOHNNYBOSS]

enutees

if you install the #6 trigger spring that comes with the kit and use the 4# range spring you can bring it down in weight.

Also I've had good feedback and success with cutting 3 coils of the reduced power safety plunger just make sure the cut end goes into the plunger spring opening. Sometimes I'll bend the cut end to give it a flush with the rest of the coils just to make sure the is no off angle in the tension vector however the channel it's captured in keeps it pretty well aligned and there is still ample spring tension to operate the safety 100% engaged.

For reset turn the rear hex screw till the edge of the beak/nose of the trigger bar is a little under flush with the connector.Don't push it to far or your trigger will not reset.

Try this and let us all know.

Glad you like the kit! it really is a true custom trigger as I do all the hand work my self which is rare these days but it's the love of work and I still believe in doing your very best! There is a difference.

I ordered one Johnnys drop in trigger set ups for my G35 I'm setting up for limited. Cost was $120 shipped. I'm coming from CZs for many years so I'm not a Glock expert by any means. My G34 has a Vanek Classic trigger in it. That is the only trigger I have for comparison. Install took about 10 minutes but I'm pretty sure most of the drop ins are similar. Anyway, I'm really impressed. It is just slightly heavier than my Vanek but the pretravel is almost entirely gone. It is really a drastic difference. It is very crisp for a glock. The reset is almost the exact same as the Vanek.

I would say at this point I prefer it just based on dry fire and the amazing lack of pretravel (yes trigger safety is still working). I'm going to shoot it next week a little and see how it performs but A+ so far.

[JBP55]

I have used triggers by Vanek, Glockworx, Glocktriggers and several others and I will say JOHNNYBOSS does excellent work.

If you are in the market for a good Glock trigger at a reasonable price you may want to try one of his triggers.

[enutees]

enutees

if you install the #6 trigger spring that comes with the kit and use the 4# range spring you can bring it down in weight.

Also I've had good feedback and success with cutting 3 coils of the reduced power safety plunger just make sure the cut end goes into the plunger spring opening. Sometimes I'll bend the cut end to give it a flush with the rest of the coils just to make sure the is no off angle in the tension vector however the channel it's captured in keeps it pretty well aligned and there is still ample spring tension to operate the safety 100% engaged.

For reset turn the rear hex screw till the edge of the beak/nose of the trigger bar is a little under flush with the connector.Don't push it to far or your trigger will not reset.

Try this and let us all know.

Glad you like the kit! it really is a true custom trigger as I do all the hand work my self which is rare these days but it's the love of work and I still believe in doing your very best! There is a difference.

I ordered one Johnnys drop in trigger set ups for my G35 I'm setting up for limited. Cost was $120 shipped. I'm coming from CZs for many years so I'm not a Glock expert by any means. My G34 has a Vanek Classic trigger in it. That is the only trigger I have for comparison. Install took about 10 minutes but I'm pretty sure most of the drop ins are similar. Anyway, I'm really impressed. It is just slightly heavier than my Vanek but the pretravel is almost entirely gone. It is really a drastic difference. It is very crisp for a glock. The reset is almost the exact same as the Vanek.

I would say at this point I prefer it just based on dry fire and the amazing lack of pretravel (yes trigger safety is still working). I'm going to shoot it next week a little and see how it performs but A+ so far.

I didn't mean it to sound like I was complaining about weight. I'm going to try the striker spring in my G34 to get an even comparison. I may try the other tweaks and I'll definitely try the reset adjustment. I'm very pleased. Thanks again.

[JOHNNYBOSS]

didn't take it as a complaint at all just reveling options- I like a 3 lb trigger myself, can I run a 2-2.5 yes but then you lose the wall break/crisp feel and it feels like a rolling break which is a little spongy for guys who like the Glock break

[fireman489]

Great trigger thats up there w any custom Glock trigger & at half the cost (of some).....my new 3Gun G34 is gett'n the full "Johnny treatment" as I type

[Stician]

didn't take it as a complaint at all just reveling options- I like a 3 lb trigger myself, can I run a 2-2.5 yes but then you lose the wall break/crisp feel and it feels like a rolling break which is a little spongy for guys who like the Glock break

Rolling break doesn't always mean spongy, rolling can be crisp and reset as positive as oem if set up right.

[Jetskidawg]

I installed a GW V4 2# race connector, competition spring kit, and titanium safety plunger. Lowered the pull to under 2.5#. Not the crispest trigger ever, more of a rolling break, but it runs smooth and reliably.

[Jetskidawg]

I installed a GW V4 2# race connector, competition spring kit, and titanium safety plunger. Lowered the pull to under 2.5#. Not the crispest trigger ever, more of a rolling break, but it runs smooth and reliably.

One word of warning, though. The reduced power firing pin spring didn't produce enough "snap" for CCI primers. I got a f2f about once per mag. So if you use the harder primers, skip this spring. If you use softer primers like Federal or Winchester, it'll run like a champ.