JOHNNYBOSS

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1541835256050651&l=185149850715179043 here's another vid of the action

If your going to keep the rest of your Glock stock and just add a connector then the M&P. If your going to buy a drop in kit like I build then Glock. The Apex is all set non adjustable, a set up like mine gives you adjustable pre travel from stock to none, a few different break feels and weights 2.5-5, adjustable over travel from stock to none, reset length speed and feel- like the standard glock palpable pop or and understated reset. Also it's Glock OEM parts and I insist on chatting with clients so I can pre calibrate to your specific shooting style. That way you don't have to adjust anything just drop it in. That's my 2 cents worth.

Hey all thanks for the stellar reviews I really do put my heart and soul into every trigger Group. There has been question about production legality of my trigger. If you do want to shoot the production division or if you are going to use the trigger for any type of competition please contact me so I can reposition the set screw hole so there is no question whatsoever of being able to see it.Remember just about anything is possible as far as the configuration of the 3 kits I offer my only rule is safety first.Thanks Again

From the source- YES and call me as I build these custom to your request. 941-894-7114 and check out some new vids they are off topic as far as USPSA production legal but still good Glock information

Hey all Johnny here I get your aprehension it being his RAVAN first post and all but what I dig he was enthused enought to actualy wright it. Thanks buddy you came through most people just say they will do things and you did!!! This gentelmen called me to tell me how pleased he was so I simply asked him to spread the word. The reason the trigger price went up was it's a whole new evolution in my smithing process and is time comsuming. The $140 trigger is still avaible however it's called level I and it's not as refined as the level II or III but it still has my trademark geometry and smoothness.. I came up with some very specific geometries that are specific to each group. one example some target shooters don't love an aggressive poping reset it can break concentration some prefer it less pronounced. That's just one and there are many others. If your wanting to up your game my triggers can help serve the game changing. These are hand honed high refined designs specific to shooters needs. Feeling is beliving

Also I know DK's triggers are approved and I recently saw one and my trigger safety tab has just as much purchase on the frame. I have plenty of shooters using that trigger in production class right as we speak so maybe I'll send a kit to John to see if I can be extended the same curiosity

Oh yes but like I said it is a reserved request I don't agree to do often

Hey BOOM check your PM I left some vital information for you. I haven't learned how to upload photos so there is a request for you to follow. I'll show you exactly how to do it 100% safeties in tack and the ZEV style scallop cut into the vertical extension not completely necessary but it looks like your getting your moneys worth. There is a way to make this a single action trigger but it's a process I only reserve for few it was not that hard to figure out you just have to have the whole gun and know your stuff- but then again I've tuned over the thousand mark I can say I feel like I have an actual relationship with this firearm it's odd to say but true

well thanks 3djedi some times this place can be a little finicky and it gets unnerving If you PM me an address I'll SEND YOU A KIT ON THE HOUSE cause I AM that DAMM COOL. I come from different roots than competitive shooting where peoples lifes are continually on the line. A possible light strike or any malfunction anywhere in the trigger system or in the gun for that matter means loss of a lot more than points or seconds.This is all I do every day it is my job and passion not a side gig. I architect and design trigger systems for elite warriors of our time guys who "pick there own bag" it's not JIVE and to imply it especially with out ever having the actual hands on experience of owning and running one of my builds is immature opinion based on well NOTHING substantial AT ALL. I do like that word jive though it reminds me of Richard Prior wait I see something in the future the JOHNNY JIVE trigger kit

What makes you say that 3djedi? Why would I hire some one else to represent what I do? That last little thing was said jokingly in the Quintin Tarantino fashion! if you thought I was being over the top don't you want the person who you intrust your trigger system to to all about their design and product as well as have a sense of humor I will stick with just the TRUTH and I believe I have something unique, highly crafted, and as custom as it comes. now if your comment was referring as to simply getting my site up an running then never mind the above BS. If that was a jab to put a man down who can't help but talk about and love what he does as FREE man with FREEDOM of speech then well.....

Hey all my web site development came to a stop because my designer flew the coop so I'm learning as I go. It will be finished in a few weeks. I have a standard kit called "the boss" that come in 3 configurations combat,range& comp. This kit is unbeatable with all honesty the craftsmanship and knowledge base I put into every one of my kits is beyond compare. I have been doing mostly word of mouth as I like to get a relationship with my clients not based on customer service like if something went wrong but get to know you and hand craft YOUR trigger hence no issues later. I built my new geometry around a sub 3lb platform with NO LIGHT STRIKES the OEM striker with a 4.5 lb spring. I relie more on angles and edges, radius and engagements NOT SPRINGS it's all architecture and listening to my clients I create a one of a kind you decide the pre travel break feel and reset and the boss is the fastest on the market. check out my you tube channel JOHNNY GLOCKS LLC it's info packed And if you want it LEGAL whatever I'll make it that way there have been no issues thus far in production. No matter what your lookin for when it come from Johnny Glocks bench it will be bad ass guns of the Navarone TNT dolamite napalm flashin just drop in the BOSS son and get it on!!!!

I almost forgot all the tasty things you can do to the safety plunger.

JOHNNY GLOCKS LLC you tube channel has a vid called the Glock 42 internals. It's 20 min long and if you know what to look for you can pic up a lot of mods. Also in the new geometry (long Version) vid there are some real game changing mods that probably should have stayed in the the bag with the cat. Just a word about safety if you do choose to modify the trigger safety tab make sure the crossbars still rest on some of the horizontal shelf this truly is the safety that is most over looked. With a 4lb comp striker spring that polished sear to striker lugface engagement can be pretty slick and that's not a lot of counter tension holding it even at Glocks required 2/3rds engagement. Also consider the reduced poundage recoil springs comp guy love to use. All those springs and timings factor in! Now my 2 cents worth: aftermarket strikers are nonsense( someone please show me some hard data on lock time and not the "I've seen matches won by 1/30th of a second BS" not to mention the striker is only traveling less than half an inch at most under relatively high tension. This time frame unless your a highly trained martial is artist is beyond human response timing. also to my knowledge none have the Rockwell hardness that Glock has still those of you that may work on a lot of Glocks have been noticing they are cutting corners on the lug face hardness as I see a lot of the dreaded sear cut into that tool steel these days so the short save some $ there and buy a great set of stones buy the way there is a method that is sooo much better than stones PM me for that one. if you hold your finger against the outside of the frame where the transfer bar is traveling it will become very apparent the frame is not to be over looked in all this may be I'll start a thread on frame jobs as some plastic polish and dremmel accessory 423E can really make an fu#$%ng unbelievable difference at short count I can think of 10 places on the frame that may deserve attention. Just for fun 8 mods to the housing 5 to the 3.5 connectors which could be a thread of it's owne 12 to the bar thread on it's own as well- by the way modifying the beak I have always found never to cut the mustard in fact it's a sketchy mod. I return to it now and again as if I've missed something but I've been doing Glocks and only Glocks for 12 years now and well..... anyway if anyone wants to talk shop just PM me I'm all about sharing real hands on experience and frustration as well...

well check this out 941-914-8129 call me if you want to chat 140 shipped

that's called an unsafe trigger drop it loaded barrel horizontal to the ground and bang she goes or maybe the pressure of the striker lug face will put it in a safe position? Push forward and if there's room to move your generally ok if not. The drop safety is negated send it back and get a Johnny Glocks the boss save some cash an be safe. 1 or 2 means the source there housings from a few manufactures

I just want to put it out there to all reading this thread. I'm not a know-it-all but I strive to know-it-all and want to know-it-all! This is why I started this thread in the first place- knowledge. It's also my job to know every thing there is about this gun and it's systems because it's what I do professionally not as a hobby not as an enthusiast and not ALL guns just Glocks. I'm new to the competition world all my prior work has been the other side and why 75% of LEO and military and first responders run Glocks. Working with operators, contractors, even personal security who "pick their own bag" It is a zero tolerance, know your end, life or death responsibility. When I read a comment about high finger placement causing frame drag to me from my back ground of shooters in stressful environments that's a problem or if I read something that is knowingly off kilter functionally I feel it's my due diligence to question, enlighten, or correct. I look forward to checking things out around here at Brian E's I just don't want to be mistaken or misrepresented but I can not take a position of ignorant silence if I damn well know better. And for the future any questions about the business side of things please PM me as to stick to guidelines I'll get antiquated with the vender side of things here as well JohnnyBoss

I think you hit the nail on the head when you said you hired Zev to build your gun.I have a kitchen its off the charts but I'm not Wolfgang Puck.. Having an understanding of fundamentals differs greatly then having actually hands-on tuned several hundred guns. No one can ever say they know it all but there is not much I have not seen or worked out for that matter and I still remain teachable.that's why I questioned you about the scalloped design which by the way is a general term not specific to the Glock trigger. I did not advise to bend the connector I just stated that had more to do with the pop then what you were describing And now on this post you changed it up from screws to springs. listen I'm not trying to make an enemy here I know we're both into the Glock but as I'm sure you could out shoot me all day long and you would know the difference if I stated things that were off and i picked the same thing up from your post.what you stated in your original post functionally does not change what you're saying it did.and the reason I asked if you were a certified armorer what to get an idea of your knowledge base. Thank you for your concernwith the whole vendor thing I'll look into it.

Stician Jetskidawg is referring to break not reset. what your describing with your advice is reset because that adjustment has absolutely nothing to do with break. in fact the cross quadrant of the cruciform that engages the set screw stop is not contacted till after the break. prior to break the beak or nose of the trigger transfer bar is traveling on a downward oblique angle on the connector under shelf. Even beyond that the crisp reset is more controlled by the lateral bend of the connector further away from the housing more than the screw adjustment your speaking of. The more aggressive/short you tune that screw the more chance you have of the gun not resetting and the beak/nose of the bar slipping off the connector face. So this aftermarket "pop" is the tension of the connector onto the bar not the trigger. Now Spongy/rolling break with 15 years of armorering the Glock and general pistol smithing as well as creating an aftermarket trigger on the market at 2-2.5ish you are going to loose the wall break feel!!! there is just not enough sear to striker face tension. the only way around this is to change the angle of the sear or better yet work out a whole different geometry of sear to striker face but there your talking about hardened steel and plated parts that if you remove to much metal in a few months you'll experience what soft to soft metal feels like and it's crap. I find the metal spring behind the pad to be awful and I'm sure some will chime in about all the frame to tab hang ups that are experienced do to that design and once again per and earlier thread you will negate the shelf drop safety before the safety plunger and that's the real litmus test of safety. Just wondering if you are a Glock certified Armorer? If this was a food forum no big deal but these are firearms and advice given should pondered and be taken serious and my tone is friendly according to forum guidelines.

OME glock trigger bar and housing they are custom drilled tapped and set screwed for pre and post travel there is no 1st stage bump because this system puts you in pre cock position with all safeties engaged, I have a proprietary edging and polishing combination to the metal to metal and metal to polymer friction points to eliminate any drag. It comes with a 3.5 connector which I once again hand edge and tune to maximize performance.The stock ome and extra power trigger spring,then 4 ,4.5, 6# striker springs, reduced power safety plunger spring and stainless steel safety plunger. If you purchase you include in notes if your shooting production and I create the pre travel index internally. These are all custom order hand worked kits. I like cad cam and cnc but there is nothing like the feel of a custom smithed trigger. I roll up my sleeves break out the stones and 2500-4000 grit and polish and create a exceptional trigger kit. There's a few thins I keep secret but if you have good eyes you'll pick it up if you study the kit. It’s the love of the ART of PistolSmithing my friend and it’s all in the minute details. I live to put smiles on the faces of the older 1911 guys when I sell these at the stores. They see it’s a “plastic” gun and the eyes roll then I say” just give it a squeeze” These are real deal guy who know how to warm up to the trigger in fractions of movement. But when the sear drops and there is that moment of wonder then the big smile—“well I’ll be now how did you do that” PRICELESS Get your self one son at 135$ shipped priority mail with tracking and insurance plus it goes out within 24hrs of buy you can't loose

The glock OME striker has always worked fine for me till I used a #4 spring from "ghost" but then same gun with a #4 from wolff spring co.-not "lone wolf" and no issues at all and I like ZEV's springs too. I really prefer the springs with several coils closer at head and tail . Now lone wolf stopped selling there #4 spring I think maybe because it came from the same source as "ghost" but that's just me guessing cause I do like Lone Wolf stuff these days .so all springs are not made equal also no one has brought up the topic of inertia here . The lighter strikers have less force behind them so they must must be extended to be functional and reliable. So I also found a way to smith the OME strikers into extended strikers while keeping them safe. I heard the round life on a Jager is 1000-1500 rounds and he does not warranty anything- that came from other threads I have read and personal stories told to be by competitive shooters I know and sponsor. The ZEV striker is good but I don't care for the longer length of the lug face with that beveled tapper the Glock ome will break sooner in transfer because it's shorter. So if you run a ZEV you should be aware of that. And as a martial artist of weaponry I would like to see some evidence of lock time and how it really factors. I mean the Glock 18 fires 1200rpm so I don't think anyone out there is gonna out run that gun which comes with the same striker as what's stock in your box Glock. Find the research and give a valid rational for spending 100$ and I'm in otherwise I'll I'm not the psychological edge kind of guy. to shed some light on the rational it's like drinking your pee in a survival situation- guys who drink their pee don't have a clue however a lot of survival instructors may have said it's acceptable but it really won't help AT ALL in fact it's worse to and science proves it. So show me the evidence that shows the micro second it takes to release that spring less than 1/2 inch plays into user input and also show me research that's not done buy some party who will benefit with the results being in their favor because that's important as well.

didn't take it as a complaint at all just reveling options- I like a 3 lb trigger myself, can I run a 2-2.5 yes but then you lose the wall break/crisp feel and it feels like a rolling break which is a little spongy for guys who like the Glock break

enutees if you install the #6 trigger spring that comes with the kit and use the 4# range spring you can bring it down in weight. Also I've had good feedback and success with cutting 3 coils of the reduced power safety plunger just make sure the cut end goes into the plunger spring opening. Sometimes I'll bend the cut end to give it a flush with the rest of the coils just to make sure the is no off angle in the tension vector however the channel it's captured in keeps it pretty well aligned and there is still ample spring tension to operate the safety 100% engaged. For reset turn the rear hex screw till the edge of the beak/nose of the trigger bar is a little under flush with the connector.Don't push it to far or your trigger will not reset. Try this and let us all know. Glad you like the kit! it really is a true custom trigger as I do all the hand work my self which is rare these days but it's the love of work and I still believe in doing your very best! There is a difference.

call Zev and ask them that's the best bet it's probably something that they have encountered before so instead of racking your and our brains call them and PLEASE let us or at least me know what they say cause this is a strange one

okay then that word scalloped is a general machinists term.this whole trigger thing comes down to the minusha.its fun and we have been working with CNC designs for all kind of cool stuff with the Glocks like taking ome firing pins and fixture them to be cut as a extended pin as well as pressing a NEW design for connector and bar engagement that's gonna really be a game changer especially for the gen 4's! it's a really exciting time right now in fire arms history. I do get it with Zev they improved on the original design.now it's time to improve again beyond anything out there.thanks for the explanation if you would be willing to sign NDA I can send you some prototypes

there's nothing on the zev website about the scalloped form you're talking about. Zev has the solutions for an arm and a leg and none of that stuff has been patented because its not distinguishable from ome. gunsmith have been using set screws to create fulcrum points since day one.Zev is not unique it's just another trigger on the market.you said it yourself its just a mechanical tweek here and there. but I will take an explanation of that scalloped form you're talking about